17.5 tips and speed secrets
#91
Tech Master
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,570
From: Kaohsiung City, Taiwan
Recently decided to try 17.5 non ramp buggy class. Built an X factory cubed with reedy mach2 motor. Used lightweight parts, adapted mip pucks, smc factory spec shorty, took seals off of bearings and cleaned and lightly oiled them, etc. The car came in at 1470 rtr. I added 30 grams to bring it up to weight. The speed and acceleration difference between my car and the fastest cars was huge. Those guys have way more acceleration and at least 5 mph on top end. Started asking around the pits and was told I need to charge my batteries at 10 amps min and a lot of guys are over charging to bring voltage up to around 9 volts. They are also using tweaked motors (whatever that means), ceramic bearings, cut down trans gears, etc. I know that every little bit helps as far as reduced friction but the difference is way more than ceramic bearings are going to give me. I asked a couple of guys what gearing I should run and even called associated and asked and all said 30/72 with 40 timing. Tried that and my car was slower than anything on the track. Went to 32/69 and 50 timing and it was better but still slow. Motor was about 120 after 6 minute run. I guess my questions are what am I doing wrong, and is cheating really that rampant in this class? Over charging the battery is the only way I can see getting my car up to their speed but that seems dangerous as well as illegal.
#93
Figured so , wouldnt mind a pic if anyone has to see how much is taken off , not that I will bother . Have some state title events in the coming months and will look at pucks ,alu cvds topshaft shorten wiring and see if I can tell the difference with my 22 2.0 . At club level it does fine and I have never really experienced these stock rockets some speak of . I am running an old trinity d3 hobbywing speedy and nanotech shorties and seems on par with anything else out there
#95
I have one, and results are mixed. I like the feel of a slipper more, even on a high bite track. Take this with a grain of salt . . this is mid motor losi 22 2.0 at ocrc, and lrh. Both locations indoor clay, high bite. I just felt more consistent and comfortable with the slipper, and I did not have that much of a performance increase from the eliminator. If you can find some smaller spurs you might have some more options I was geared 72/30 I believe.
Keep in mind I use the AVID triad slipper so it is still lighter than stock, using pucks and ceramic bearings also; so maybe it helps a little but was not noticeable since I have already significantly lightened everything.
Keep in mind I use the AVID triad slipper so it is still lighter than stock, using pucks and ceramic bearings also; so maybe it helps a little but was not noticeable since I have already significantly lightened everything.
#97
Tech Addict
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 518
From: thomasville,nc
Any tips for the lrp x20 17.5? I didn't see it in any of the posts. Or is it such a difficult motor that nobody wants to fool with it? Noone runs it in my area but I have one and I think it can be competitive
#100
#102
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,120
From: West Palm Beach, Florida USA
#104
We dont have a 17.5 class yet but interest is showing and with a new indoor track coming soon although after reading all of this mod is much simpler!! but i enjoy the art of tweaking to get faster so so be it!
I made some fully machined thin gears for my SRX that really increased acceleration, really surprised me how much of a difference that along with eliminating one of the idler gear bearings (2 on MM) makes!
Are the High torque stators the way to go? or even HT stator and rotor?
I made some fully machined thin gears for my SRX that really increased acceleration, really surprised me how much of a difference that along with eliminating one of the idler gear bearings (2 on MM) makes!
Are the High torque stators the way to go? or even HT stator and rotor?



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