guess we will never know which amazing battery he is referring to.

the whole LiHV thing is a non-issue. if you run at a track where everyone else is doing it and the racers have basically decided it's ok, then what's the harm? of course you can't do it at a big race. sure it's against ROAR rules, but so is charging over 1C and having a battery hotter than 5 degrees above ambient and just about everyone does that.

occasionally i'll walk around the pits and peep people's chargers to see what they're charging to. i've seen one guy charging to 4.35v but he's in the intermediate class so i don't care about him. i've never caught an expert guy charging over 4.22v (which is what i do as well. when pulled off the charger, the pack is 8.39-8.40v. confirmed this at a "big" race where they tech'd batteries).

I recently picked up a brand new Orion 3200 and the IR numbers are so high I'm not sure I will use it at all. They are typically around 4.0mOhms. As socket said I don't usually use batteries once they get this high let alone run new packs with this high of IR. It's a bit frustration since they advertise low IR....nothing you can do I guess.

Socket can you comment on super shorty packs? I had bad luck with the 2800 but would like to have a pack that is around 150grams or a little lighter would be ok. This way I can fit it under my rear waterfall farther than a full size and also use an under battery weight for super low cg. Thanks!

Looks like Socket as been suspended..

Yes, the quality and actual chemistry of the cells determines the internal resistance while the size of the plates inside the pack changes the mah of the pack and not the nominal voltage. However, the chemistry and quality determines the internal resistance per volume or surface area in the cell. Not per cell, period. The positive and negative plates are part of the chemical reaction and having a larger surface area to pull current from ends up with a lower cell resistance.

Let me know if this helps:
What if we compare them to plain resistors. Let us take two resistors that have the exact same resistance. If you put them in series, the overall resistance doubles. If you put them in parallel, the overall resistance is cut in half. If you pass a current through the set in parallel you will have a lower voltage drop.

Now, instead of resistors you have lipo cells (3.7 volt nominal) rated at 2000 mah, with an IR of 4 milliohms. Take those two cells and put them in series. You'll have a 7.4 volt pack with 2000 mah and 8 milli-ohms of resistance. Now put two of these cells in parallel. You will have a 3.7 volt pack with 4000 mah and 2 milliohms of resistance. Just like the resistance of resistors is cut in half if you put two identical ones in parallel, the same holds true for battery packs. If you add another "1s pack" to it in series, you will end up with a 2s pack with 4000 mah and an internal resistance of 4 milliohms.

Going a step further, instead of having two identical cells and putting them in parallel you simply make a cell that is twice as large. Assuming the tabs and other wiring isn't an issue, the internal resistance of that larger cell is smaller than that of a smaller capacity cell of the exact same chemistry and quality (or roughly the same as two cells half its capacity in parallel).

Comparing it to your fuel tank analogy, you need to add an additional fuel pump to make the comparison roughly similar. We can equate the surface area inside the cell to the fuel pump in a gas tank, so if you add another gas tank and fuel pump to your truck, that is more similar to adding an additional cell in parallel than just adding a larger fuel tank. Now that you have an additional fuel pump, you can draw more fuel without starving the engine. Same holds true for cells in parallel or simply larger cells.

Sorry if I rambled.

That's too bad. Seems like he had good info to share.

Having info to share is one thing. Presenting the information in a way that doesn't drive people away from the forum is where he had problems.

Yeah... He was a bit of a d*ck.... Just a little bit.

Yea....I think I can see what got him in trouble as I have now seen a few more of his posts.

Just coming back to R/C after 25 years off. Ive read this thread from page 1 and there is a lot of good info. Thank you all for sharing.

I want to run 17.5 in b6d. Its a smallish local course track, clay med to high traction. Im thinking SMC shorty battery, with fantom 17.5.

What about an ESC recommendation please? Earlier in the thread there as talk that certain ESC could not be as good as "the fast guys".

That's what motor and battery I have, but haven't ran the car yet so I can't give you any feedback on how it performs. Seems like for stock racing something like the Hobbywing Justock would be a good fit, or if you want to spend a little more, the Reedy 800z is a popular choice.

Anyone try the maclan 17.5 compared to the 24k or fantom? The maclan seems to be the hot motor at my local track.

I would stay away from the Reedy esc. They are having issues with them blowing out quickly. Any esc depends on your budget. Just stock is good for a low price. Mid I would go SMC 160 and for the higher end Orion R10.1 or Pro. But hey it's all relative to your preferences this is just my opinion.

He is very arrogant and acts like he knows everything, Ive seen it other threads.

Guy is a prick.

Personally, the SMC 120 2-3s looks good. I talked to danny and I guess he did some dyno testing and found the 120amp esc generated more rpm at the same torque, than his 160amp. So he suggested the 120 for stock racing. The 120 also has PWM features which are nice and it is like $110 with the programmer. good all around esc. I am currently using the reedy 800z and 1000z, with mixed results. mostly having goofy issues with the power button not turning of the esc, or needing to hold the power button to get it to power up. also, those esc's cant use a program box. For someone new to racing, I would always suggest an ESC with a pc connection and a program box. it is just much easier to use. I can program my 800z/1000z just fine. But since my power buttons are acting up, it has become a chore. I plan to ditch the reedy esc soon. their performance is good. but unimpressed with the quality. YMMV