Many forget that having a light car can be bad, but it can also be good. There tons of things you can do to lighten your car without totally changing the feel of your car. Or if you lighten your car you can then add weight where you want it; like the rear of the car or the front of the car.

I really suggest the Protek lite battery I recently got, really lite and delivers tons of punch, almost all of my locals run it.

http://www.amain.com/protek-r-c-2s-s...200mah/p271097

If you keep an eye on it, I know they usually have a really good Black Friday deal on Protek items.

Agreed I have taken as much weight as I could without modifying with a drill in parts lol. And then put the weight where I really wanted it. My b4.2 is 30g over the minimum for stock buggy. And I added 20g on servo and 10g on each rear triangle. I always try to keep my servo weight at 70g total. Easy way to think about it. remove as much as possible, to add what's wanted, where it's needed

They used to sell a 3000mah pack, that thing is LIGHT!

The one linked to above is just the new version/gen. of that older 3000. Fantom has something like that too, they are light

When balancing wheels for stock class, what balancer do u guys recommend or use?

I did an experiment before I moved to the UK where there is no 17.5 class (thankfully) I put a Novak cheater motor in my car (17.5 but with an illegal stator) and was still slower compared to the fastest couple guys (I only did this for one race) I had 70c packs charged at max amperage, buggy at minimum LEGAL weight, etc That was the point where I just decided I would run mod from here on out. You can actually run a heavy buggy that is not so twitchy and can have it as fast as you can handle.

I'm running 70/36 in my 22 and some tight corners into jumps I'm struggling to get over. Running a trinity 17.5 and orion r10. 20* timing

I can't think of any case where having a lighter car could be bad in racing. Suoer high wind, maybe?

I think they meant that having too light of a car can be detrimental. Losing grip and a more squirrel-y handling comes to mind.

-Corrupt

Only if it's so light that the springs/damping aren't right. The need for weight is always indicative of another problem. Remember when everyone put as much as 6oz under their lipos?

I just picked up the new 2800mAh Pro Tek Battery and it's quite a bit lighter than my 4400 and 4600 SMC packs. The 4400 and 4600 actually both weigh in at 211grams and the 2800 is about 180, I need to double check again. Should take most cars down under the legal limit pretty easily. I'll be testing this pack soon and I"ll report back. So far first couple of cycles on my iCharger 308 I'm seeing at least 2800mAh and around 3.0mOhms average between the two cells in the pack for IR. I have a feeling when the pack has a few runs through it it will go down a bit. My SMC packs typically have a 2.5mOhm IR rating.

I use a dubro prop balancer, and I balance with poster tack I got off amazon.

IR is so huge. I'm waiting for new ones to come in stock just for that reason

The Team EA Motorsports pack I just got is 5100mAh and IR was about 1.8Ohm on my 406 charger...and it was a rocket on the track as well. EA is the man when it comes to batteries!

I agree IR is very important.