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Old 02-11-2016 | 06:23 PM
  #151  
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Originally Posted by Cain
can the resistance measurement that the Hyperion line of chargers show be used at all? And am I correct in thats its a combo of the cells in the battery that is shown?
Yes it can. The numbers don't always match up brand to brand, but should be close in this case. At least that is what I've seen comparing with a few single channel iChargers.

The firmware version determines if the Hyperion shows pack resistance or individual cells. Not positive, but if I remember correctly V5 or later is needed for individual cell readings. Cell readings are cool and all but since the full pack is what is actually raced I never bothered to update.

Consistency in all testing conditions, especially pack temperature, but also how long since last use, charge state, rate, etc, are always important for best results.
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Old 02-11-2016 | 07:17 PM
  #152  
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for those of you who utilize high amp charge/discharge procedures, could you please describe yours? i recently bought an icharger and external discharge bank and want to know your protocol.

thanks.
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Old 02-11-2016 | 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK
for those of you who utilize high amp charge/discharge procedures, could you please describe yours? i recently bought an icharger and external discharge bank and want to know your protocol.

thanks.
I don't run 17.5 anymore but my cycle setup is:
30 amp discharge, 1 minute break, 20 amp charge.
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Old 02-11-2016 | 11:27 PM
  #154  
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What do you discharge it down to?
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Old 02-11-2016 | 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by mhughesjr
Should you change your shock package for stock. It seems with a lighter platform you should go to a lighter shock oil than normal. Is my thinking correct
I know some people who own two of the same cars and have almost completely different setups for stock and mod. Others who change very little so obviously there is driving style and preference.

If you are going from mod (say an 8.5) to stock, then sometimes people will switch to lighter springs and oil because the momentum is less and there are sometimes less forces at play when there is weight transfer.

Note that this is sometimes.

With the mod motor, you will accelerate faster and consequentially often brake faster where the layout of the track permits you to - but not always. That is in some parts of the track the differences in speed you will be running will be smaller than in others.

It would seem from a physics standpoint that if you are accelerating less and braking less quickly then as the weight transfer is less severe, a lighter spring may give you a similar feel.

Try say, one step lighter all around, but also try the same springs when going from mod to stock.

I tend to tune for more weight transfer from rear to front in my stock car than my mod. I think this is because as I'm going slower there is less to shift the balance to my front wheels to give me steering when I want it. Hence I go proportionally with a little heavier spring in the rear to assist in that rear to front weight transfer.

Anyway, just my somewhat noobish attempt to give you some thoughts to try. Hopefully better drivers will jump in on this discussion as well.
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Old 02-12-2016 | 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK
What do you discharge it down to?
3.2 / cell
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Old 02-12-2016 | 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Woulvesbaine
I know some people who own two of the same cars and have almost completely different setups for stock and mod. Others who change very little so obviously there is driving style and preference.

If you are going from mod (say an 8.5) to stock, then sometimes people will switch to lighter springs and oil because the momentum is less and there are sometimes less forces at play when there is weight transfer.

Note that this is sometimes.

With the mod motor, you will accelerate faster and consequentially often brake faster where the layout of the track permits you to - but not always. That is in some parts of the track the differences in speed you will be running will be smaller than in others.

It would seem from a physics standpoint that if you are accelerating less and braking less quickly then as the weight transfer is less severe, a lighter spring may give you a similar feel.

Try say, one step lighter all around, but also try the same springs when going from mod to stock.

I tend to tune for more weight transfer from rear to front in my stock car than my mod. I think this is because as I'm going slower there is less to shift the balance to my front wheels to give me steering when I want it. Hence I go proportionally with a little heavier spring in the rear to assist in that rear to front weight transfer.

Anyway, just my somewhat noobish attempt to give you some thoughts to try. Hopefully better drivers will jump in on this discussion as well.
with the shift to higher bite and mid motor cars, you really should be setting your cars up to carve rather than point and shoot. It's just easier to go faster. If you do that, then your car's setup should be close when you switch from 17.5 to mod.
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Old 02-12-2016 | 12:31 PM
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Here's what your up against in the stock classes. This guy has some very informative vids and testing equipment.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dZPVyA-xoGo
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Old 08-16-2016 | 08:31 AM
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Default saddle vs shorty

If you can build a light weight car, and comes in under weight, why not just settle for saddle packs or bricks, instead of shorty?

The saddle will produce a higher average voltage, however I'm not sure if the extra 75 grams could possibly put it at a disadvantage! Although maybe it won't be at a disadvantage, as I have heard the ideal weight for 17.5 2wd is around 1570grams. However with shorty, you can adjust weight bias, but seriously how often do you even need to change lipo position? I'd rather adjust weight bias with lead weights!
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Old 08-16-2016 | 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by captain stacker
If you can build a light weight car, and comes in under weight, why not just settle for saddle packs or bricks, instead of shorty?

The saddle will produce a higher average voltage, however I'm not sure if the extra 75 grams could possibly put it at a disadvantage! Although maybe it won't be at a disadvantage, as I have heard the ideal weight for 17.5 2wd is around 1570grams. However with shorty, you can adjust weight bias, but seriously how often do you even need to change lipo position? I'd rather adjust weight bias with lead weights!
You sure about that? DO you have discharge graphs proving your theory?
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Old 08-16-2016 | 10:04 AM
  #161  
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Originally Posted by captain stacker
If you can build a light weight car, and comes in under weight, why not just settle for saddle packs or bricks, instead of shorty?

The saddle will produce a higher average voltage, however I'm not sure if the extra 75 grams could possibly put it at a disadvantage! Although maybe it won't be at a disadvantage, as I have heard the ideal weight for 17.5 2wd is around 1570grams. However with shorty, you can adjust weight bias, but seriously how often do you even need to change lipo position? I'd rather adjust weight bias with lead weights!
Higher average voltage? Not sure about that. Maybe if we ran 10-12 minute mains. For most of us that run 6-8 minutes, I'd be surprised to see much if any difference in average voltage.

You're only thinking about the weights of the batteries themselves. A shorty allows you not only to move the battery around but put that weight savings over a saddle anywhere you want (C/D block, bulkhead, aluminum hubs, etc).
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Old 08-16-2016 | 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK
Higher average voltage? Not sure about that. Maybe if we ran 10-12 minute mains. For most of us that run 6-8 minutes, I'd be surprised to see much if any difference in average voltage.

You're only thinking about the weights of the batteries themselves. A shorty allows you not only to move the battery around but put that weight savings over a saddle anywhere you want (C/D block, bulkhead, aluminum hubs, etc).
Shhhh! Stop using facts, experience and logic.
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Old 08-16-2016 | 10:09 AM
  #163  
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
I don't run 17.5 anymore but my cycle setup is:
30 amp discharge, 1 minute break, 20 amp charge.
same here.
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Old 08-16-2016 | 10:12 AM
  #164  
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One wreck and none of this stuff matters
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Old 08-16-2016 | 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by the big rc
One wreck and none of this stuff matters
Yep. What I said on page 1 or 2.

Speed secret?

Don't wreck, and you'll be in much better graces. I've seen slow cars win races, and fast cars blow out more times than not.
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