Like Neal mentioned, the proper idle gap is probably around 0.5 mm, but can vary according to track and chassis conditions. The correct combination of needle and idle settings results in a nice powerband that is consistent throughout the race. Once you learn to tune properly, it's not difficult to figure it out. Remember that your clutch and drivetrain play just as important of a role in getting that powerband correct. If you have a sticking clutch or binding drivetrain, you will not be able to tune your engine correctly.

hey neal can you get a clio block and how much

Secret is engine running right, behind are all theories which is not ALL applicable in real tunning. Theories are reference to get you in the right direction

Regarding tuning, it does take time, knowledge and experience. At the track it can get frustrating with all the other stuff going on during race day, harder if you don't have a pit guy you can work with.

My advice is either go to a park or quiet street, spend half a day or so, start with needles at factory. Then try all different settings e.g start to lean bottom end and do long WOT runs, keep leaning until you think you have gone way too far so you get to know what a too lean bottom sounds and feels like.

Then go too lean top, rich bottom and rich top and lean bottom etc with long runs.

Its the only way you will learn, by doing it in a "controlled" environment you shouldn't damage the motor.

I agreed with u, best thing is u able to tune ur engine urself n know wats goin on. Ppl help is good but not best. Learning take times but the gain is forever. Dont keep asking, start do some testing at track

YES my friend this is what I know I need to do as a best case scenario. But its the hardest to do. I dont have the time or area like that for testing, kinda sux. I need to find a big solitude type place. On the HSN, I believe i found the lean spot, after WOT pass it would ding high for 2-3 seconds, then start to drop to idle

I have a brilliant idea read the entire Tuning bible that is stickied. But to make it much easier for you here is a great video. On tuning to get you really close to be able to set a race/track tune:http://vimeo.com/m/7595905

Raced my Novarossi Rex Paloma Limited Edition for the first time this past Saturday. It had good power on the bottom and crazy mid to top end power! It worked flawlessly with the Losi RE12 pipe. I don't usually run 7 ports but this one will be staying in my buggy for a long time. Special thanks to Rex at RW-Mods for lapping and breaking it in for me. He really does a fantastic job. When I got to the track I ran a couple practice tanks at a rich setting then put a race tune on it for the qualifiers and A-main.

Sick of watching videos which is basically just in theory not real world and everything elese neesd to be perfect to get very similar results as to wats in the videos. The tuning bible is great but if there are other issues then its useless until the other issues are figured out.

Im getting frustrated now. If its not one thing its another like normal with most things but my goodness with the nitro cars. Every part has to be pretty much set up perfect to get the best performance for real on these huh.. I have 2 things, 1 sometimes when i take off somewhat hard from a dead stop the car wants to slightly pull to the right or left. It never knows what side, like its random but it doesnt always happen. I checked my drivetrain engine diffs axles shafts everything majorly mechanical on the whole entire car and everything is sound that i can verify EXCEPT for the clutchbell. There is a little bit of play with the bell bearings and bearing seat- (stupid racers edge cant get their tolerances good enough with their bells) and there is about 1.1 mm of sliding play with the clutchbell itself. Dont know if these things would affect tune though. Any ideas on the car pulling? Its a powerful modded engine I hope its not just the torque pulling to the side. My steering is great, linkages straight and smooth. The car is in immaculate smooth operating order except for the bell play...

That is the most useful tool you will get. It's exactly what you need to help you. Unless you have someone that is there in person. Follow what he says and you will be on track.

you're exactly right the video is awesome and will help, presuming all else is equal meaning no other issues with the car affecting tune.

Could the clutch be culprit to the car driving to the side off the line? Its the only thing left I can think of...

No.

Just did some research and may have found the solution. Some guy had the same exact issue and he said it was his rear diff being too tight. Had a feeling it was with the diffs but didnt know which one, they all felt good when testing them. He said he backed of 1/4 turn and it drove much better. Lets hope i have the same luck

Like u said, might be diff oil thicker than mid and front, but if u using analog servo, there always interference when u hit the throttle. You can do some testing without start the engine. Good luck