I won some werks #5 plugs at race this past weekend. Are they the same as novarossi plugs if so which ones ? C5tgc ?

+1

Idle is Moot on the box.

Track tuning is the ONLY way to ensure its proper and wont "wonder" once its fully up to temp.

No buddy, certainly no one will fool me its not about that... Guys like Maximo from CRE a guy that knows more then all us about nitro engines is saying things like this so.....
Thats the point, JUST going by listening isnt enough to ensure having a balanced tune meaning a proper gap, lsn and hsn settings. If too high gap, to rich lsn that could be also masking a lean hsn, etc etc. I dont know about you but with my $550 engine it better tuned right. I used to think like all you guys (what ur saying) and I learned some more things, thats why i posted some of this info, to help us all maybe just listening which is obviously what I do as well, but then checked my carb 1 day and my gap was like almost 4mm! and i thought it was tuned pretty well. This means the lsn was prob too rich and high end too lean. Now how bad is an out of balance carb for the engine, i dont have real world proof for consiquences, but you i know that you can get the most out of the engine power and runtime wise if its set right. Hey by all means, if just going by listening all the time is it and makes no diff making sure its "in balance" and optimally set, then then better for us cuz that would be less work. Any other ideas would be good.

just remember Maximo isnt a fool wen coming to nitro, so just trying to help..

Does anybody have a part number for the head button for a Nova Keep Off 7?

I don't think anyone called Neal a fool. But to think that you should tune with the air filter off so you can see the idle gap, you're getting finicky. I don't consider myself an experienced tuner, but I know that tuning with no air filter (regardless if you're in a controlled, clean environment or not) is a recipe for headaches. Just tune your engine off of how it reacts to what you're doing. You will get the best results if you listen and observe what your engine is doing. If you hear it bogging down, you dont take it into a sterilised green room with hazmat suits and make an adjustment there, you simply richen or lean the engine depending on what the smoke from the pipe, the sound, and the PERFORMANCE of the engine is telling you. As Paul and Cody King say, "you shouldn't settle for second-best". Now that doesn't mean you need to go all scientific and anal about it. Just do what you think is right, and go from there. I don't know what else I can say, but I cannot reiterate enough that it's taking it too far if you start to tune with the air filter off.

/rant

Looking at the exploded views of the Keep-Off 21.7XL, the part number you're looking for is 28025 (bare head button) and maybe 29002 (head button o-ring). The oring doesnt do much but add another layer of protection from dirt and dust.

Ahh cool thanks buddy. My first thought was to look at the exploded view... I searched the net for the part first. Thanks anyway Ill look that part up. A side note, I wasnt saying anyone called Neal a fool, i was making a point thats all, food for thought.

I don't tune with the airfilter off......

However when I help someone tune I always remove the filter to check the idle gap and make sure the linkage is working correctly...You can't even imagine how many have their linkage set incorrectly with a false idle gap....So before I waste any time messing with needles I check the idle gap and make sure the linkage is not holding the slide open at neutral position.....

No on esaid you did Neal. But you do talk about the carby being in balance for tuning and not being good having a needle being either too lean or rich by being masked from a poor setting of another needle, which could then mask another improper needle setting, like the carb being way out of wack but still running decent. So from that, I took it too why dont guys tune the low end/idle without a filter, so setting the gap visually and getting the pinch test down pat. Then moving forward with the rest of the tune on the ground? I hate tuning the low end cuz its always a mutliple stage process with the gap and needle... just trying to better that process. Then tune with filter and hsn on ground.

well for starters tuning any needle while the filter is off is not going to do you any good, because once you put the filter back on the the will change anyway.. so why even do it...

Well there goes that idea then lol

Has anyone heard of or tried the JP Gimar mig21 Dirt 7? Looks like a bad arrrrse engine! Check em out on ebay. What do you think? Seems like peeps arent really running JP anymore in the US? You think there are better engines out there?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JP-GIMAR-Rac...item4aa9b72519

The bottom line is that there is no magic setting for the idle gap. But, once you have it in the ballpark, only minor adjustments are necessary. If you have an engine with a 4mm idle gap that feels like it's "tuned pretty well", something is off with either the engine, clutch, or your perception of tune. In any case, you are better off getting some help from a fellow nitro racer, and save yourself a lot of headaches.

I think i exaggertated a bit, it was probably more like 3mm at the most, but still you would say that there is a prop/correct setting for the gap right? I know there isnt magic involved lol but theres correct and incorrect settings follow?

Anyway, I wish you guys were at my track some days...
How bout these Gimars?!

I do definitely support visually inspecting and even measuring the idle gap.. makes it easier to help someone tune when I know for sure their needles are where they are supposed to be...I have seen some tunes so jacked up that i would be needling for a week trying to get it sorted...So for me I always like to set a 0.5 mm idle gap and use that as a base to start from...gives me somewhat of a reference point if not anything else....