Good thoughts, I use RSx servos on lipo NO analog here Im going to try 7, 10, 5 as amain techs suggested and loosen the diffs themselves a little bit and hope this fixes the issue. I know how to troubleshoot Im just sick of doing it and not running a dialed car!! I want a TKI3

If you have a setup question go to the make/model thread of your vehicle and ask it.
If you have a servo question go to the electronics section and ask there.

This is the Novarossi engine thread in the "nitro engine forum", please keep the thread free of random unrelated chatter.

It probably felt really good putting the moderator hat on today Eivind E.

They are talking about engine related issues that could be traced back to driveline. They have every right to post that here.

someone needs a snicker

Tell em' Homicidal Bunny thats rite!!

Taking advantage of my unusual wabbit tendencies :P

Excellent! wibbidy wibbidy wibbidy wabbit!
Maybe this phsycho wabbit can tell why the #%@#$ I have all this black black residue/oil? chalked onto a part of my head cumbustion chamber and piston! Looks liek I was running SUPER DUPER rich but I really havent been. Id say on the slight rich side ive been running on avg. but before that very rich for a long break in lets say pretty rich for almost a gallon. Do I now clean this crap off and run a new plug? Ive never seen black build up like this on an engine like this. Its kinda chalky and rubs off but its hard to rub off like its very lightly stained chalky residue. The mill is ready to be beaten on now and I need new plugs and a race tune now but hope this crap doesnt keep building up. I did run some break in fuel.

If it's black like that, sounds more like you're running super-duper lean. I had a guy at my track who blew up a repinched Mugen Ninja JX2 because he overheated from a really lean tune, and the internals had the same black, chalky substance on the head of the piston.

Oh damn, well the plug is still in tact. The coil is a light grey, the tip of the wire is grey but the base of the tip of the wire is black if you can see what im saying. The flat part at the very end of the coil, just before it starts to coil down. That part is black, but the tip is grey, the part that molds to the butt of the plug (LOLOL) How can i be super lean if my temps never get above 210?!?!!! This nitro thing is killin me rite now lol I know its not hard, but everything ive been seeing now is contradicting information and theories ive learned.

I do the spit test too and avg. a time of 3-4 seconds sometimes longer to burn away. I dont get this. 90% of the time i see smoke from the pipe, sometimes a lot and sometimes a thin trail. I do the pinch test and avg about 4.5 seconds to quit

So if i ran a little lean for some tanks at this point lets say, whats the worst that will happen? Id need a new piston, sleeve and head button?

Try change fuel, some fuel tend to built up the residue, run odonnel fully synthetic then it will be very clean but i doubted the lubricant package, just my personal opinion

It's hard, I still don't know a whole lot. But, the most common mistake that the more experienced guys see with someone's tune is that they're way too lean on the top end, and way too rich on the bottom end. It's possible that that is why your temps are in an acceptable range. 4-5 seconds to die seems a little bit rich (It should be about 2-3). How easy is it to rub off the black matter? Does it seem like a similar compound to what you find on the body of your pipe (burnt oil buildup)? If it is easy to remove, it's probably a false alarm.