Go-Tech Engines Thread
Guys, need advise, after i ran byron 25k/9% for5/7gallon, remove break in shim .2shim for go 5port n udp 4 port.
I experience increase in power, both engine temp around 95-110°c. I blow 3plugs which is 2 os p3 n 1 argus t3 with good smoke.
Should i switch to colder plug? Ambient temperature around 32-35°c
I experience increase in power, both engine temp around 95-110°c. I blow 3plugs which is 2 os p3 n 1 argus t3 with good smoke.
Should i switch to colder plug? Ambient temperature around 32-35°c
Guys, need advise, after i ran byron 25k/9% for5/7gallon, remove break in shim .2shim for go 5port n udp 4 port.
I experience increase in power, both engine temp around 95-110°c. I blow 3plugs which is 2 os p3 n 1 argus t3 with good smoke.
Should i switch to colder plug? Ambient temperature around 32-35°c
I experience increase in power, both engine temp around 95-110°c. I blow 3plugs which is 2 os p3 n 1 argus t3 with good smoke.
Should i switch to colder plug? Ambient temperature around 32-35°c
The P3 has a very thin coil, easier for it to be damaged/broken.
My fuel is 25/10 with full synthetic bio oil.
Try an O.S P4, only slightly cooler but a good plug. I have been using the P4's in my GO 5 port (modded GX5R) & they have been great, never blown one, also the P5 is worth a look, both work well in my engine.
The P3 has a very thin coil, easier for it to be damaged/broken.
My fuel is 25/10 with full synthetic bio oil.
The P3 has a very thin coil, easier for it to be damaged/broken.
My fuel is 25/10 with full synthetic bio oil.
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,289
From: The Aloha state
VP pro has the 2103 pipe as well as Arrow parts to fit
http://www.vpprousa.com/826/arrow-ra...ipe-set-detail
http://www.vpprousa.com/826/arrow-ra...ipe-set-detail
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 218
From: Bellevue, WA
Tech Regular
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 354
From: Hokksund, Norway
Does this apply to both short and long low speed needles??
http://go-racing.vpweb.co.nz/Tuning-Guide.html
http://go-racing.vpweb.co.nz/Tuning-Guide.html
Does this apply to both short and long low speed needles??
http://go-racing.vpweb.co.nz/Tuning-Guide.html
http://go-racing.vpweb.co.nz/Tuning-Guide.html
Starting flush on both needles is a precaution that means you can never start off too lean by mistake.
The .5mm - .7mm idle gap is pretty universal, then setting the idle speed with the low speed needle gets the relationship between these two correct right from the start.
The most common cause of tuning problems is the idle gap ending up too big - causing a very rich bottom end, and a lean top end in order for the motor to run half decent.
Setting the gap at the start (then not touching it) and then tuning around it, makes it way easier to get the air / fuel ratio (idle gap vs low speed needle setting) correct.
Then just lean the top end for performance, then go back and re set the idle speed with the low speed needle again (as leaning the top end will have also indirectly leaned the low speed as well - raising the idle up). So richen the low speed if necessary to get the idle back down - then you are good to go.
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 218
From: Bellevue, WA
Pato Concha is running the Cera in South America. He says it is an "amazing little engine" and he is running it in both buggy in truggy and is going to start testing it in 1/8 on road. He mentioned that the Cera was in the car that won the Argentinian national truggy championship last year.
I just received a report about the GXII Plus from a driver that just finished breaking one in. He raced it for the first time last weekend and he said the bottom end was "finicky" with a fine line between rich and lean. He eventually got the tune down and in his words started "hauling the mail." He was pulling the pack down the straights and he wound up qualifying 4th for the Amain. In the Amain he was running in 2nd place when a hole opened up in the carb boot and he started sucking air and that ended his run. In terms of fuel economy he reports he is getting 12 minute run times.
I hope this helps.
I just received a report about the GXII Plus from a driver that just finished breaking one in. He raced it for the first time last weekend and he said the bottom end was "finicky" with a fine line between rich and lean. He eventually got the tune down and in his words started "hauling the mail." He was pulling the pack down the straights and he wound up qualifying 4th for the Amain. In the Amain he was running in 2nd place when a hole opened up in the carb boot and he started sucking air and that ended his run. In terms of fuel economy he reports he is getting 12 minute run times.
I hope this helps.
Last edited by Bellgate; 07-10-2014 at 09:48 PM.



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