Go-Tech Engines Thread

Just purchased this for a low price, only has a gallon on it.
Can someone identify which Gen this would most likely be and if it uses the long LSN like the newer GO's?
I did have one of these once when I first got into the hobby. Used to run one in a hyper 7 pro which is a heavy buggy and the thing ripped!
Can't imagine what this will be like with a JP1 pipe!?
Thanks
Rob
Last edited by zonda; 06-20-2014 at 02:59 AM.
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Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 218
From: Bellevue, WA
I think what you have is an "older" engine. I have a 2009 price list and while it has silver heads in it the orange heads are also there and are labeled as "new." Also, the exploded parts view of the GX-5R shows it stock with an orange head.
My guess is you have a pre-2009 engine. I hope you don't end up needing parts for it. They might be hard to find.
My guess is you have a pre-2009 engine. I hope you don't end up needing parts for it. They might be hard to find.
Last edited by Bellgate; 06-19-2014 at 06:01 PM.
I think what you have is an "older" engine. I have a 2009 price list and while it has silver heads in it the orange heads are also there and are labeled as "new." Also, the exploded parts view of the GX-5R shows it coming stock with an orange head.
My guess is you have a pre-2009 engine. I hope you don't end up needing parts for it. They might be hard to find.
My guess is you have a pre-2009 engine. I hope you don't end up needing parts for it. They might be hard to find.
If you got it for a good price, who cares about parts. Just break it in nice and easy and than let her rip. I don't rebuild engines. I just replace them. Just really wish GO would get there act back together. I still have one of there engines that is running great as a back up motor. I switched to novarossi when all the issues with the business happened last year. Their motors aren't bad, but when I can get a Italian made motor for about the same price or maybe $20 more. It's a no brainer to go novarossi. If Go ever get their crap together again, I would consider buying one of their new GXII plus motors. My back up motor is the original version and it keeps up with my buddies bonito.
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Rebuild or replace, it's all good. 
If you have any suggestions about how GO can gets its "crap" together I am willing to pass on suggestions to the factory. Just send me a PM or email.

If you have any suggestions about how GO can gets its "crap" together I am willing to pass on suggestions to the factory. Just send me a PM or email.
Last edited by Bellgate; 06-20-2014 at 09:35 PM.
Hi Rich, Hope it's all going well for you in the US 
That sounds like the old Pro Series R motor. The 5 Port was silver head, the 7 Port was orange head, and at the very end of that era they did a 3 port with a coral pink head. These motors preceded the GX Series 3, 5, 7 ports
Makes that motor at least 5 years old, maybe a little more.
Very strong motor. Only problem is the current sleeves won't perform as well in that older Pro Series crankcase. Current 21-0600 rods and the newer ramped cranks would fit ok.

That sounds like the old Pro Series R motor. The 5 Port was silver head, the 7 Port was orange head, and at the very end of that era they did a 3 port with a coral pink head. These motors preceded the GX Series 3, 5, 7 ports
Makes that motor at least 5 years old, maybe a little more.
Very strong motor. Only problem is the current sleeves won't perform as well in that older Pro Series crankcase. Current 21-0600 rods and the newer ramped cranks would fit ok.
Last edited by kaptain crash; 06-20-2014 at 08:20 PM.
More linear power band with more top end than the previous 5RHO model.
Edit: See here for pictures and details www.go-racing.vpweb.co.nz/GO-GXII-Plus--21.html
Last edited by grizz1; 06-21-2014 at 01:14 PM. Reason: Additional info added
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Finally got my GO 7 port going. Some of you may remember I posted pics in this thread of a nitro package I bought for a steal that came with two GO 7 ports.
I decided to try and fire it up awhile back. Set everything back to stock settings, new plug, and fresh fuel. Hit it with the heat gun for a few mins,Plopped it on the starter box and brraapp. Fired right up and idled great.
Let it warm up a bit more and ran it up and down my street for almost a tank to fine tune.
Very happy. I just bought another nitro package for a steal...yes, again.
I got a Caster Racing nitro buggy and truggy, buggy has a Reds R5 engine and Savox servo set up. Truggy has an Ascendancy engine and Savox/HiTec servos.
A spare OS .25 XZ
Also got a Caster Racing ebuggy and truggy rollers.
Tons of spare parts, two Orion RX packs, starter box with 3s lipo, a bunch of tires/wheels...the list goes on.
All for $400
I decided to try and fire it up awhile back. Set everything back to stock settings, new plug, and fresh fuel. Hit it with the heat gun for a few mins,Plopped it on the starter box and brraapp. Fired right up and idled great.
Let it warm up a bit more and ran it up and down my street for almost a tank to fine tune.
Very happy. I just bought another nitro package for a steal...yes, again.
I got a Caster Racing nitro buggy and truggy, buggy has a Reds R5 engine and Savox servo set up. Truggy has an Ascendancy engine and Savox/HiTec servos.
A spare OS .25 XZ
Also got a Caster Racing ebuggy and truggy rollers.
Tons of spare parts, two Orion RX packs, starter box with 3s lipo, a bunch of tires/wheels...the list goes on.
All for $400
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GO-GXII-Plus...item233bb555bb
Holy cow! This is a great price for anyone looking at a go motor. It's nice to see we have a US distributor again.
Holy cow! This is a great price for anyone looking at a go motor. It's nice to see we have a US distributor again.
Frankly is cheap. Here in MYS best price is usd250 (3.3exchange rate) with no free shipping lol
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GO-GXII-Plus...item233bb555bb
Holy cow! This is a great price for anyone looking at a go motor. It's nice to see we have a US distributor again.
Holy cow! This is a great price for anyone looking at a go motor. It's nice to see we have a US distributor again.
Guys, i been running go engine for a year and i did put the .2 shim for break in and still using it. Is it:
1. Better to take it out and it will only have total .5shim?
2. Will the power slightly increase and have better response.
Always run 25% nitro so need clarification on the standard shimming is it .5mm?
Currently running a new technical track n struggle on the jump. Most ppl there running picco, orion, os and is a pain in the @##...
Plz advise. Thanks
1. Better to take it out and it will only have total .5shim?
2. Will the power slightly increase and have better response.
Always run 25% nitro so need clarification on the standard shimming is it .5mm?
Currently running a new technical track n struggle on the jump. Most ppl there running picco, orion, os and is a pain in the @##...
Plz advise. Thanks
Guys, i been running go engine for a year and i did put the .2 shim for break in and still using it. Is it:
1. Better to take it out and it will only have total .5shim?
2. Will the power slightly increase and have better response.
Always run 25% nitro so need clarification on the standard shimming is it .5mm?
Currently running a new technical track n struggle on the jump. Most ppl there running picco, orion, os and is a pain in the @##...
Plz advise. Thanks
1. Better to take it out and it will only have total .5shim?
2. Will the power slightly increase and have better response.
Always run 25% nitro so need clarification on the standard shimming is it .5mm?
Currently running a new technical track n struggle on the jump. Most ppl there running picco, orion, os and is a pain in the @##...
Plz advise. Thanks
Get rid of the .2mm shim. It's a break-in shim, and is only meant to be used for break-in to ease up on the compression (first 12 - 15 tanks).
Running it will be decreasing the compression ratio of the motor.
These motors have a reasonably low compression ratio compared to some others to start with, so you will be losing a lot of power and punch - especially running like this in conjunction with using 25% fuel.
If you want peak performance with reliability and a reasonable tuning window - run the stock factory .5mm shim stack, and run 30% fuel.
These motors love the higher nitro percentage, as it effectively raises the compression ratio, and they really perform.
The .5mm factory shimming is suitable for up to 30% fuel - you don't need to change anything (just get rid of that extra break-in shim).
Last edited by grizz1; 06-26-2014 at 09:59 PM.



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