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Old 12-14-2010 | 08:32 AM
  #13126  
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nice!
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Old 12-14-2010 | 01:21 PM
  #13127  
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NEW THREAD FOR THE MG66, as the other one was closed : http://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-...ml#post8342726
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Old 12-14-2010 | 01:38 PM
  #13128  
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Do the GX-3,5 and 7 port all use the same crankcase?
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Old 12-14-2010 | 01:40 PM
  #13129  
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Originally Posted by Redvet79
Do the GX-3,5 and 7 port all use the same crankcase?
yes sir! i beleive they do
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Old 12-14-2010 | 01:51 PM
  #13130  
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Thanks
The JB weld is giving out on my GX-7R from a snapped con rod. But got me threw till the end of season.
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Old 12-14-2010 | 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Redvet79
Do the GX-3,5 and 7 port all use the same crankcase?
GX-3, 5, 7 port & MG66 all use the same crankcase !
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Old 12-14-2010 | 01:57 PM
  #13132  
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Originally Posted by Redvet79
Thanks
The JB weld is giving out on my GX-7R from a snapped con rod. But got me threw till the end of season.
just let us know if you need a new case there are alot of guys on here that can help you out...and you might find one cheap on fleebay
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Old 12-16-2010 | 04:48 AM
  #13133  
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I have an old .21 turbo 5 Ports silver head engine.
Just rebuilt it with a GX7R Cylinder, Piston and Rod.

I need to break in it, and need the factory set up for it.

I canīt download the manual from go engine webpage.

Thanks,

Ale
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Old 12-16-2010 | 05:55 AM
  #13134  
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Originally Posted by traxxas.uy
I have an old .21 turbo 5 Ports silver head engine.
Just rebuilt it with a GX7R Cylinder, Piston and Rod.

I need to break in it, and need the factory set up for it.

I canīt download the manual from go engine webpage.

Thanks,

Ale
High speed and low speed needles both flush and idle set at .7mm. You may have to turn your low speed needle in a few hours from flush to keep it running though. Make sure your temps stay above 200 and be patient with your break in. I would recommend changing the front and rear bearing first if you have not already and also check the o rings on the carb needles to make sure they are not deteriorated. Once all of these things are done you should have a motor that will make you very happy.
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Old 12-16-2010 | 06:00 AM
  #13135  
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Originally Posted by matrixmike28
High speed and low speed needles both flush and idle set at .7mm. You may have to turn your low speed needle in a few hours from flush to keep it running though. Make sure your temps stay above 200 and be patient with your break in. I would recommend changing the front and rear bearing first if you have not already and also check the o rings on the carb needles to make sure they are not deteriorated. Once all of these things are done you should have a motor that will make you very happy.
also preheat lower part of cooling head to 200 to 220 degrees before starting. heres a link to help...........http://go-racing.vpweb.co.nz/Tech-Tips.html
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Old 12-16-2010 | 08:23 AM
  #13136  
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Originally Posted by traxxas.uy
I have an old .21 turbo 5 Ports silver head engine.
Just rebuilt it with a GX7R Cylinder, Piston and Rod.

I need to break in it, and need the factory set up for it.

I canīt download the manual from go engine webpage.

Thanks,

Ale
before running, please remove the high speed needle and low speed needle. Inspect the rubber seals and PM me if they are degraded at all.
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Old 12-16-2010 | 06:32 PM
  #13137  
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I saw some pics of the new Go motor, it is better looking than I thought it was going to be.

Rex
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Old 12-16-2010 | 06:36 PM
  #13138  
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Originally Posted by 22Racer
I saw some pics of the new Go motor, it is better looking than I thought it was going to be.

Rex
yes sir!...2011 is gonna be a great year....
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Old 12-16-2010 | 07:44 PM
  #13139  
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well???????????? Lets see a pic!!
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Old 12-16-2010 | 09:27 PM
  #13140  
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I'm told testing is coming along fine, and the March release date is looking steady at this stage. Maybe even a little earlier if we are lucky.

Sorry Matt. We have been sworn to secrecy, under threat of death
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