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Old 12-23-2013 | 09:23 PM
  #12001  
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I like the RPM, JC and AE low frictions. All good in my book.
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Old 12-23-2013 | 09:46 PM
  #12002  
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So I just came back to the b4.2 and t4.2 after 2 years of trying to get a 22 to steer.

I LOVE THESE CARS!

Do you guys think AE will still support these cars with parts when the b5 comes out. The b5 would have to be something miraculous for me to give up this b4.2, in other word I want to race this for at least another year.
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Old 12-23-2013 | 09:49 PM
  #12003  
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Originally Posted by wstuart
So I just came back to the b4.2 and t4.2 after 2 years of trying to get a 22 to steer.

I LOVE THESE CARS!

Do you guys think AE will still support these cars with parts when the b5 comes out. The b5 would have to be something miraculous for me to give up this b4.2, in other word I want to race this for at least another year.

these cars have been around forever so im sure there will still be parts for a while.
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Old 12-24-2013 | 04:57 AM
  #12004  
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Originally Posted by wstuart
So I just came back to the b4.2 and t4.2 after 2 years of trying to get a 22 to steer.

I LOVE THESE CARS!

Do you guys think AE will still support these cars with parts when the b5 comes out. The b5 would have to be something miraculous for me to give up this b4.2, in other word I want to race this for at least another year.
Originally Posted by silveraider14
these cars have been around forever so im sure there will still be parts for a while.
^ Agreed

You'll grow old and grey before B4 parts become scarce. I'd say I look forward to price reductions, but nothing really breaks.
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Old 12-24-2013 | 06:20 AM
  #12005  
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Man I find it hard to believe that they changed that much im excited to see the changes but I think gull wing mid and rear options and maybe just maybe a narrow chassis
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Old 12-24-2013 | 11:27 AM
  #12006  
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Good to hear.

After driving a 22 and rb6 I've gotta say I am not at all impressed with metal chassis. I think you need flex in off-road. They're also too heavy for stock racing I think
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Old 12-24-2013 | 12:08 PM
  #12007  
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I made a V2 for my 3D printed front shock tower:



It's much more rigid then the V1, and hopefully ill be able to drive soon so i can say how it go's.
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Old 12-24-2013 | 12:25 PM
  #12008  
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Thats cool, what kind of 3D printing material do you use to make that? I've always skeptical of the durability of the material
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Old 12-24-2013 | 05:20 PM
  #12009  
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Looks cool. I would like to see a more aerodynamic front shock tower for the buggy myself.
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Old 12-24-2013 | 05:58 PM
  #12010  
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Originally Posted by JeepnMike
This is great info, thanks guys. I will shop for some SMC or possibly Turnigy packs to get me started and go from there. Thanks also for letting me know how you guys are orienting the packs in the battery tray.


Thanks again!
Now that I have my shorty packs, do you guys mind to please tell me what you are using to keep the battery seated and forward? I am assuming it is similar to the foam inserts that come with the kit, there is just a couple of inches I need to fill now and I am not sure if a wad of pads is a good solution. I wasn't planning on using an ESC shelf, I still might not, undecided (if that makes a difference). I did an image search to save myself from asking lame questions, I just didn't see anything conclusive.

Thanks again for all of the great advice you guys have given!

Merry Xmas!

Mike
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Old 12-24-2013 | 06:01 PM
  #12011  
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Originally Posted by 2-shot
Not sure if you did this already. Put the RPM ball cup in a drill. Just tighten the chuck on the drill enough to hold the ball cup and keep the drill chuck from spinning on the ball cup. Then dab a little bit of grease or Chapstick on the treads of your turnbuckle. Hold the turnbuckle and use the drill to run the ball cup in and out on the threads of the turnbuckle a couple of times. It will make it a lot easier to adjust the turnbuckle later. It's still tight enough that they won't adjust themselves, but loose enough to make it easy to adjust later.
I've had RPM, they'r abetter than stock for sure but too flexible for my tastes and they don't remove any of the slop on the B4. The Best Ball Cups you can get are the TLR and Kyosho but you'll also need to buy the studs. BUT, they don't pop off for squat and the precision fit results in 90% removal of the slop. On my 410 I was coming down the back stretch at full speed and some kid clipped me and sent my car flying to the infield and the left froth arm smacked into a support pilar and it snapped! It was so loud every driver not he stand said Oooooooooooh!

Destroyed the arm and RF suspension hanger and the Aluminum FF suspension hanger was warped and snapped the hinge pin. All that and not a single ball cup popped off, nor did they warp. The only thing better are the Dubro Ball Links and I'll only drop the coin on them if and when my current cups begin to fail.
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Old 12-24-2013 | 06:08 PM
  #12012  
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Originally Posted by JeepnMike
Now that I have my shorty packs, do you guys mind to please tell me what you are using to keep the battery seated and forward? I am assuming it is similar to the foam inserts that come with the kit, there is just a couple of inches I need to fill now and I am not sure if a wad of pads is a good solution. I wasn't planning on using an ESC shelf, I still might not, undecided (if that makes a difference). I did an image search to save myself from asking lame questions, I just didn't see anything conclusive.

Thanks again for all of the great advice you guys have given!

Merry Xmas!

Mike
I used to use a SC10 battery foam before I ran the esc behind the battery and it worked well.
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Old 12-24-2013 | 06:14 PM
  #12013  
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Originally Posted by the incubus
Destroyed the arm and RF suspension hanger and the Aluminum FF suspension hanger was warped and snapped the hinge pin. All that and not a single ball cup popped off, nor did they warp. The only thing better are the Dubro Ball Links and I'll only drop the coin on them if and when my current cups begin to fail.
think id rather get a dnf to a ballcup then have to replace parts.
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Old 12-24-2013 | 06:17 PM
  #12014  
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Originally Posted by Speed Freak RC
I used to use a SC10 battery foam before I ran the esc behind the battery and it worked well.
Thanks for the response! I just realized there was an actual market for these, I had no idea. I just realized Avid sells them, etc.

Might as well ask, are ESC shelfs trendy or awesome? I am going to get this car done and awesome just in time for it to be outmoded. LOL

Thanks!
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Old 12-24-2013 | 06:26 PM
  #12015  
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Originally Posted by Jake S
think id rather get a dnf to a ballcup then have to replace parts.
This makes no sense. My post was to show how a devastating impact destroyed bunch of components that would have also destroyed any other ball cups but these held strong. They did not cause the damage because the arm hit the support post flush in front of the lower shock mount screw. The impact was so bad it actually warped the aluminum suspension hanger which is much stronger than anything else on the car. This just goes to show how durable the cups are. Nothing more, nothing less.
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