Only one is grooved, and it's the black washer that rests against the bearing. The other washer is standard and not grooved.

I'm sure their wouldn't be any disadvantage to not running their thrust bearing.

I seem to have bent the front two camber links a little over time. Any preference or differences between the Lunsford, JC or Associated titanium turnbuckles? Really only need the front two but prices on sets are not that bad.

Lunsford. Lifetime warranty against bending or breaking.

Thanks, Wildcat. Good to know. Lunsford it is.

I like and run all of those and you can't really go wrong. I went with the jc fins just because they were a new look that I like.

I called and spoke with their tech guy...he said if you use a regular thrust, the steel balls may have a chance of slipping out and scouring the inside of the aluminum outdrives.

Can any of you guys weigh in on using the puck system with a 13.5? I am curious if thats too much power?

Not for their hingepins! I bent one in my old DEX 210 and they told me I was SOL!

I am almost done getting my B4.2 together. Just need to paint and cut the body, then I can begin some shakedown runs. Are there any hot tips from the experienced guys as far as weak points on the kit that I should take care of right away? I did RPM ballcups already. One thing that made me nervous is that I feel like I couldn't tighten screws down as tight as I would want, and might have even stripped some threads in the plastic. Is that a common problem on the kit?

Be careful of the rear brace and shock tower bolts that go into the chassis. They seem to strip out first.

Regarding the MIP puck stystem, I am using the AVID caged (Ceramic) thrust ball assembly in my (MIP/Puck) setup & have no issues at all. The diff (with AVID Carbide 3/32 diff balls, is smooth and after a thorough break in, still strong without the need to tighten it. The Puck system was a huge difference in weight & acceleration, well worth every penny. I have at least 10 race days on the first set of orange/plastic pucks & the out drives & pucks still look like new.

dont wrench it on it, its plastic the only screws that i have strippe are the rear brace and those both happened on different runs, so ya but other than that dont wrench on it just snug it

So I shouldn't tighten them with a power drill? Damn...thats what I'm doing wrong.

no thats why i stopped using one cept for taking stuff out i hand tighten everything ...

I would think that money spent on the puck system would be good in the long run. Ae outdrives aren't cheap and wear really fast.