I'm going to unsolder your old ESC after dinner and rewire for this project. This is going to be the stock B4.2, the mod one is all ready to go for tomorrow.

Yea that's what I'm going to try now.

And for those looking to drill the pin holes on new parts get the #33 drill bit...#34 is a smidge too big.

Thanks again Mike!

well guys i installed he dubro ends on my car vitually no slop only slop was in the c hubs and and the arms so just a bit the ends need worked in a bit yet but it is SUPER consistent, ran that with the jconcepts finisher body and wing didnt cut the body to the lines made it as tall as possible drove really easy compared to the proline bull dog or vortex i ran that with the jconcepts wing yet again full 3/8 above the first cut line so its level with the sides drove really consistence and easy super awesome got 2nd to a sponsored guy do to traffic, and i started 4th good night overall need new rear tires, which are coming in wed but my old ones are bald so its needed

i heard the dex210 arms have the same design as the ones for the B4 so can i use dex210 rear arms on my B4.1? They seem to be tougher than the stock ones.

Can anyone tell me the size of the bleed screw o rings that go on the cap of the 12mm shocks? That’s all I need, I can order the whole rebuild kit if I need to. Just looking for that o ring tho. Maybe a aftermarket set that is a little stronger? Thanks.

I recently bought the rebuild kit for the o ring the problem my friend told me is that it is getting tightened down too far, "tighten it down until it stops it self barely using any finger strength, i learned the hard way i guess you have as well, rebuilt my shocks with his method, not leaking and o rings are still good

lol okay, thanks! learning pains ha ha. Is it normal for them to leak a little over time and or get air into them? How long should it take before you need to replace the oil or top them off and re bleed them? Seems for me after a good full day of practice or a race that i will start to notice the end of the shock a little wet and some air. I then replace the oil. I have only ran the car 4 times so far.

Sorry wrong thread.

no i built my shocks once and didnt rebuild em for like 3-4 months same oil oil wasnt super full but it was fairly good, id say you have a leak and yours shocks are built wrong... follow the manual to the t and loose your end cap that hold the o rings and spacers in it about 1/2-3/4 turn thats all i do

i like running the ball diff on low-med tracks because it feels better with the gear diff on high traction surfaces(after i tune the car in with the ball diff) it seemed to have more rear end rotation around tight 180 corners took away maybe 5% on power steering as well both good things for me i started with 5k oil and it works well i might be going a bit lower a mix to get 4k um for looser tracks you might want to start at like 2-3k weight asc oil also if youll have to get a triangular file an file down the flashing on one side of your gear diff FLUSH with the other teeth, if it isnt stable on power go to like 5k and if it nees more rear grip to go like 1k or 80 weight oil and try that

When i say leak i mean a very, very small amount. Not noticeable to the eye by taking the cap off. I can just see a very little bit between the retainer clip and the end of the shock after a weekend of running.

I run both my B4.2 and SC10.2 without the o rings with no leak issue at all. no need for them. Just snug the screw when done bleeding.

Heard of others doing this as well with no leaks, will have to try it out when the orings are shot!

I run three sets of big bores like this with no o-rings on the bleeder screws, no leaks. I was running practice two to three days a week.

Hello all. I picked up a B4.1 chassis on ebay then bought parts from amain to complete the roller. The battery brace I bought is just barely too short. I got the carbon brace for the b4 but amain shows it fits all b4s.
How can I find out what chassis I have? What is the difference between the +8 and a reg b4 chassis? Thanks for any info.