Official Tekin RX8 GEN2 ESC Thread
#1142
Tech Adept
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 105
Hey Randy,
I e-mailed you a couple of weeks ago about my EB48 that I use for a Basher/Tricks buggy, well I also have the EB48.2 which I had set up for racing.
You had suggested the Tekin 2250kv for my basher buggy and to get the RX8 GEN2 T8 1900kv Buggy combo for racing, so I decided first to get the 1900kv for my EB48.2 racer and figured I would try it out in my basher buggy to see how it would do with the tricks.
A few pages back a guys reaction to his new Tekin setup was wow! Well I have to agree with him and say the same. WOW!!!!!!!!!! I am impressed, this Tekin combo actually did better with the tricks I like to do and is right there if not more power and stayed much cooler compared to the mamba monster 2200kv combo that I did have in there. Another huge advantage to the Tekin setup is I lost 5.22oz which is 1/3 of a pound, that's a lot of weight. Thanks Tekin for the great product!
Thank you Randy for being there for the costumers and answering all the questions we have!
I attached a pic and yes that is strait up & down and sideways. This is the farthest sideways I have gotten with landing perfect!
I e-mailed you a couple of weeks ago about my EB48 that I use for a Basher/Tricks buggy, well I also have the EB48.2 which I had set up for racing.
You had suggested the Tekin 2250kv for my basher buggy and to get the RX8 GEN2 T8 1900kv Buggy combo for racing, so I decided first to get the 1900kv for my EB48.2 racer and figured I would try it out in my basher buggy to see how it would do with the tricks.
A few pages back a guys reaction to his new Tekin setup was wow! Well I have to agree with him and say the same. WOW!!!!!!!!!! I am impressed, this Tekin combo actually did better with the tricks I like to do and is right there if not more power and stayed much cooler compared to the mamba monster 2200kv combo that I did have in there. Another huge advantage to the Tekin setup is I lost 5.22oz which is 1/3 of a pound, that's a lot of weight. Thanks Tekin for the great product!
Thank you Randy for being there for the costumers and answering all the questions we have!
I attached a pic and yes that is strait up & down and sideways. This is the farthest sideways I have gotten with landing perfect!
#1143
I had same problem as MrMorninwood. After a month ESC showed internal short (Leds 1,2,6and 7) with gen1 motor. After disconnecting the motor, esc seemed OK but there was no chime anymore. Motor was not over geared or something. Reset did not help, because as soon as I hit throttle it went back to that error(with little smoke, dont know whether it was from motor or esc). So its on warranty repair right now. I choose tekin over castle because of reliability, so I am little disappointed.
According to manual timing of gen2 ESC can be set to 7 profiles and default should be 1 - no timing. When my ESC was set to defaults, timing was set to profile 3 or 4. Is that normal? I have tried to understand "timing", found some articles, but I am not really sure what it does still. I want my motor to run as cool as possible, I set it to TP1 0*timing advance profile. Is that right?
According to manual timing of gen2 ESC can be set to 7 profiles and default should be 1 - no timing. When my ESC was set to defaults, timing was set to profile 3 or 4. Is that normal? I have tried to understand "timing", found some articles, but I am not really sure what it does still. I want my motor to run as cool as possible, I set it to TP1 0*timing advance profile. Is that right?
More timing means more kv out of the motor, in general.
Rx8 timing profile as follows:
TP1: 10* Timing Advance / RPM Range 5443-20,016
TP2: 27* Timing Advance / RPM Range 5443-20,016
TP3: 45* Timing Advance / RPM Range 5443-20,016
TP4: 63* Timing Advance / RPM Range 5443-20,016
TP5: 80* Timing Advance / RPM Range 5443-20,016
#1144
Hay Randy or others,
What's the best way to mount the esc to the chassis? I have used padded servo tape and other double sided tape but once dirt gets in there around the bottom of the esc, it eventually comes off. After it comes off I usually put a bead of shoe goo around the bottom. Should I just keep doing that or is there a better way.
I have seen people use some really hard plastic Velcro from Walmart. I don't know if that works or not.
Thanks guys
What's the best way to mount the esc to the chassis? I have used padded servo tape and other double sided tape but once dirt gets in there around the bottom of the esc, it eventually comes off. After it comes off I usually put a bead of shoe goo around the bottom. Should I just keep doing that or is there a better way.
I have seen people use some really hard plastic Velcro from Walmart. I don't know if that works or not.
Thanks guys
Not Randy but timing in the ESC comes on as a function of RPM. So as the motor ramps up the ESC adds timing to the motor in how it fires the poles. The amount of timing and at what RPM the ramp up starts and ends is up to the settings you put into the ESC. I may be wrong on this so Randy will correct me but I think the defaults for onboard timing is 5 deg added per level (1 is zero, 2 is 5, 3 is 10 etc) with start RPM of 5000 end RPM of 20000. Timing advance on the RX8 is not quite as powerful as on the RS for "Boost" but will have an effect on the motor. Adding boost will add motor heat and cause more strain on your batteries as well so use caution when adding timing by keeping an eye on motor and battery temps.
#1145
Tech Rookie
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 7
The default profile is TP1 which on the Rx8 does have 10 timing advance which is only 3 degrees of actual timing.
More timing means more kv out of the motor, in general.
Rx8 timing profile as follows:
TP1: 10* Timing Advance / RPM Range 5443-20,016
TP2: 27* Timing Advance / RPM Range 5443-20,016
TP3: 45* Timing Advance / RPM Range 5443-20,016
TP4: 63* Timing Advance / RPM Range 5443-20,016
TP5: 80* Timing Advance / RPM Range 5443-20,016
More timing means more kv out of the motor, in general.
Rx8 timing profile as follows:
TP1: 10* Timing Advance / RPM Range 5443-20,016
TP2: 27* Timing Advance / RPM Range 5443-20,016
TP3: 45* Timing Advance / RPM Range 5443-20,016
TP4: 63* Timing Advance / RPM Range 5443-20,016
TP5: 80* Timing Advance / RPM Range 5443-20,016
Code:
The profiles are as below: TP1: 0* Timing Advance TP2: 20* Timing Advance / RPM Range 5443-20,016 TP3: 40* Timing Advance / RPM Range 5443-20,016 TP4: 60* Timing Advance / RPM Range 5443-20,016 TP5: 80* Timing Advance / RPM Range 5443-20,016 TP6: Custom 1 - Programmable via HotWire TP7: Custom 2 - Programmable via HotWire
#1146
Your right. I got boost and timing mixed up. I forgot timing advance is in % of 30 deg. Boost is actual deg of timing.
Go with what Randy said. He has the most accurate answer. I never use the onboard settings as I just hook the ESC up to my hotwire.
Go with what Randy said. He has the most accurate answer. I never use the onboard settings as I just hook the ESC up to my hotwire.
#1147
Hmm, but manual says
Code:
The profiles are as below: TP1: 0* Timing Advance TP2: 20* Timing Advance / RPM Range 5443-20,016 TP3: 40* Timing Advance / RPM Range 5443-20,016 TP4: 60* Timing Advance / RPM Range 5443-20,016 TP5: 80* Timing Advance / RPM Range 5443-20,016 TP6: Custom 1 - Programmable via HotWire TP7: Custom 2 - Programmable via HotWire
#1148
I hardly ever run timing. Why? It's a marginal performance gain at best and when too much is used, you just get excess heat and not any extra power on tap. I run 0 almost always now with a 1900, it has plenty of power in itself.
4-poles don't respond to timing like 2-pole motors, plus the Timing Advance is much more mild than Boost. Just gear appropriately and run it. I hardly ever change my gearing.
4-poles don't respond to timing like 2-pole motors, plus the Timing Advance is much more mild than Boost. Just gear appropriately and run it. I hardly ever change my gearing.
#1150
Tech Adept
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 105
You guys ever think about making things water proof?
I've seen on here that you shouldn't have the wires come off the back of the motor. What if they are securely fastened to the back of the motor? I attached a pic of what I did.
#1151
Crushing the wires like that isn't something I would recommend.
Give it some more slack and it will be fine.
#1152
Tech Adept
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 105
#1153
Tech Rookie
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 7
#1154
Tech Adept
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 105
When the wires come off the back of the motor it puts stress on the tabs and can break or crack the solder where the tabs are connected to circuit board inside the motor.



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