Yup. I don't have a buddy to hold the camera or tripod for my iPhone but here are a couple quick vids.

+ YouTube Video

How did the guy on the other video get no suckback or rebound?

did you bleed them 2x or 1x?

I see the issue now losi oil..... LOL. seriously mine have never done that. I would unscrew it, push it up and rescrew it.

Well by that recording it was 3x as the first set of videos I did got lost in cyberspace.

Did that...will do it again.

Sorry been gone a couple days and fell WAY behind on this thread!
I basically run the Chris Jarosz setup with 1/4 oz of whts in each rear "pod" , 1/4 oz opposite receiver to balance it, and 2X 1/4 oz wgts in front of the servo. Otherwise it is identical to his set-up.

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...ands_TNS_6.pdf

I bleed for zero rebound and usually get it by bleeding it twice and not inserting the bleed screw until after the second bleed. I compress the shock very slowly then pull it all the way out and slowly bleed again. If oil doesn't come out on the second compression or at least to the top of the threads, i will add oil again and start over.

Not saying im right because im so new to the sport but i can usually get zero rebound as well as, zero suck in.

Also, i just built a new kit but haven't run it yet but i will say my old shocks were tired but i did get them back up to par. If you've had your big bores for a while and notice that the gold coating is wearing off, i would replace them. Im selling my current car to my brother and replaced the rear shock shafts because even with a new rebuild kit the shocks would have oil on the shock eyelet the next day after a run. When i would bleed them after a run, the bleed screw would shoot out once it was past the last thread due to the air buildup, therefore it was taking in a lot of air throught the bottom. I got to run the car last weekend for the last time with the new shock shafts and it was way more consistent.

This one would be a good starting point!

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...ands_TNS_6.pdf

Suggest never judge rebound until after you pump the shock 3 or 4 times first.

Should never need to double bleed if you check rebound properly.

I pump them when I'm done. I've had rebound and sucking in issues which lead me to this process.

[QUOTE=BIGSKI15;12475166]I pump them when I'm done. I've had rebound and sucking in issues which lead me to this process.

shaft gets sucked in due to no air mix with the oil.

That's why you have to pump up the shock a few times before checking to get a true rebound .

What size drill bit is needed to drill the holes before I tap my rear hubs with the 4-40 set screws? It it the 3/32 ?
Thanks guys

You guys are way over thinking these little shocks. Push the fluid out the top one time with no air bubbles run the bleed screw in and call it done. Yes the shock will suck back in. So what, they are all consistent and after the first run they don't do that anymore anyhow as they have pulled air in from the o-rings anyway. These aren't nitrogen charged properly sealed 1 to 1 shocks folks LOL

If you want to pump them 5 or 6 times then crack the bleeder, but its not gonna matter 1 minute into your run unless your just a head case and are dwelling on it.

I might make a video myself since its the cool thing to do

Ryan , 1/16th

sigh... almost 20k posts and 1 outta every 4 he messed up quotes lol then just gets compounded when people quote wc.

i put oil in the body, move the piston up and down 5-6 times. top off the shock... put the cap on... push the piston up until the shock cups hits the bottom aluminum cap, and call it a day.

before i was using the shock cup i would try for 1mm rebound, put the cup on, and noticed it was almost dead nuts 1mm of rebound... makes it alot more consistent and faster too.