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Old 08-22-2013 | 09:17 PM
  #8551  
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Is it ok to use the safe diff spring, thrsut bold and small plastic parts from my old diff in my new diff?
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Old 08-22-2013 | 10:55 PM
  #8552  
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Originally Posted by Grasschopper
Yup. I don't have a buddy to hold the camera or tripod for my iPhone but here are a couple quick vids.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


How did the guy on the other video get no suckback or rebound?
This happens when the top seal around the cap is letting in air. If they are brand new unscrew the top and make sure the seal doesn't have a nick or something allowing air in.
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Old 08-22-2013 | 11:19 PM
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These AE shocks have been the easiest to properly bleed out of all the ones I've tired so far. I do as Cherry recommends also, put the screw in, pump around 10 times, check rebound. If I don't get a dead shock, I unscrew the bleeder screw, let a tiny bit of oil seep out, try again. I've never had to do that more than once.

TLR shocks are more finicky by far, I love these AE units
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Old 08-23-2013 | 04:11 AM
  #8554  
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Originally Posted by elex300
This happens when the top seal around the cap is letting in air. If they are brand new unscrew the top and make sure the seal doesn't have a nick or something allowing air in.
Well then that makes me wonder if I'm sucking air in at the bleeder screw because I took the o-rings out based on some comments a few pages back.
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Old 08-23-2013 | 04:31 AM
  #8555  
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I still use the losi bleeder washers
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Old 08-23-2013 | 05:27 AM
  #8556  
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Originally Posted by Grasschopper
Well then that makes me wonder if I'm sucking air in at the bleeder screw because I took the o-rings out based on some comments a few pages back.
I have'nt used a bleeder oring since day 1 and my shocks have been perfect. Check the oring the cap sits down on. I guarantee it is letting air in. Also you dont have to crank the cap down. Thumb tightened is sufficient and wont bunch up the oring.
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Old 08-23-2013 | 05:33 AM
  #8557  
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Hi All so I'm looking for a 1/10th to beef up my 1/8 nitro buggy skills and was wanting to know if the B4.2 would be a good practice ride for that? Or would it be better to look at the B44.2 seeing its 4wd like the 1/8th
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Old 08-23-2013 | 05:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Jono Buggy Dude
Hi All so I'm looking for a 1/10th to beef up my 1/8 nitro buggy skills and was wanting to know if the B4.2 would be a good practice ride for that? Or would it be better to look at the B44.2 seeing its 4wd like the 1/8th
B44.2 IMO. I find the switch from 2wd to 4wd (B4.2 to B44.2) to be huge in terms of how they corner and jump. I don't have 1/8th experience but one of the fastest guys at our track (we have a pretty deep and strong 1/10 4wd class) came from 1/8th and was just telling me he found the transition from 1/8 buggy to the B44.2 was much easier than 2wd.
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Old 08-23-2013 | 06:26 AM
  #8559  
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Originally Posted by 34x17
B44.2 IMO. I find the switch from 2wd to 4wd (B4.2 to B44.2) to be huge in terms of how they corner and jump. I don't have 1/8th experience but one of the fastest guys at our track (we have a pretty deep and strong 1/10 4wd class) came from 1/8th and was just telling me he found the transition from 1/8 buggy to the B44.2 was much easier than 2wd.
If you can drive mod buggy, you can drive anything. The issue with 4WD is that people tend to overdrive them. The 4WD helps keep you out of trouble, but it can serve as a crutch.

The balance that's required to run at the top with a mod 2wd buggy will help you drive anything else.
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Old 08-23-2013 | 06:52 AM
  #8560  
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Originally Posted by ryanpatrickgore
sometimes if your at a big race you can be sitting around for a long time inbetween heats. sooo.. that is a great time to tech your car and top off oils. if your sitting around chatting with pros and your friends, you might as well do something dureing and get that car a1 100% ready to go. chances are you dont have much else to do. if you were to have car problems dureing that race other than breaking an arm or something... that is embarasing to say the least

p.s. i have never met anyone who is at the track and racing more than George Cherry. 100's and 100's of laps a week no joke
I get what you're saying about keeping your car in top shape at a big event...I do the same thing. But doing such an extensive rebuild when it isn't needed, it just opening up you/the car for operator error. The old analogy "if it aint broke, don't fix it" really comes to mind here (or the KISS principle lol) I too run 100's of laps a week, club race twice weekly, and usually a full day of practice as well. (I haven't been out of the top 3 in any of the classes I race in, for quite a while...I owe all of that to how much time I spend on the track) And when I practice/race, I don't sit around and BS..I'm there for a reason and one reason only lol.

I'm just saying, if you know that the maintenance you do, or the amount of racing you do, is REALLY excessive vs the norm....then why recommend doing the same thing to casual racers?!! Even with putting 100's of laps on my cars I don't even come close to needing to do that much maintenance. (i've literally put 1,000's of laps on my stuff between the rebuilds that WC does weekly/every race)

Ever wonder if the reason you need to rebuild/maintain your stuff soooo much is because you are rebuilding/maintaining it sooooo much?! lol

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Old 08-23-2013 | 06:55 AM
  #8561  
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Originally Posted by Grasschopper
Well then that makes me wonder if I'm sucking air in at the bleeder screw because I took the o-rings out based on some comments a few pages back.
I haven't run the o-rings on any of my 4 sets of AE BB's since I took them out of the package. Not a single one of the 16 shocks leak or suck air. It's funny because the ones I have seen leak/suck air...are the ones owned by 0-ring fanboys lol
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Old 08-23-2013 | 06:59 AM
  #8562  
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i have both a RC8b and B4.2 and don't think it's hard to switch beetween them, at least on high bite. But a friend of mine finds it really hard because the 2WD has needs much more break but much less gas at the same time.
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Old 08-23-2013 | 07:09 AM
  #8563  
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Is it fine to use the same thrust bolt spring and t nut in my old diff and put it in my new diff? Or will the spring be to compressed?
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Old 08-23-2013 | 08:01 AM
  #8564  
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Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta
If you can drive mod buggy, you can drive anything. The issue with 4WD is that people tend to overdrive them. The 4WD helps keep you out of trouble, but it can serve as a crutch.

The balance that's required to run at the top with a mod 2wd buggy will help you drive anything else.
I run mod buggy, second week of it lol, and it is insane, there was some of the guys making 18.230 laps, my fastest was like 19.890 and my average is 20.400 so I am not even near good enough yet hehehe but I am begin the hang of it, but after driving mod buggy I was in rtr sportsman with my sc10 and I TQ'ed (first time ever) and took 1st, after driving my buggy the sct seemed so much more easier lol mayb just me!!:/
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Old 08-23-2013 | 08:35 AM
  #8565  
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Originally Posted by xTotalghost
Is it fine to use the same thrust bolt spring and t nut in my old diff and put it in my new diff? Or will the spring be to compressed?
It's perfectly fine to clean and Re-use all those. I would only re-use the spring once tho.
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