European 2wd 1/8th pan car on-road Classic class
#2971
Matt,
I just got another 300, my 4th, I think! I'm restoring for profit (I hope!) Do you know 1)What the white plastic material Associated used for the radio tray and other flat plastic parts is and where I can get some? 2) I have a radio tray but need a pattern for the other parts.
I don't think it is nylon, but some other plastic...
I just got another 300, my 4th, I think! I'm restoring for profit (I hope!) Do you know 1)What the white plastic material Associated used for the radio tray and other flat plastic parts is and where I can get some? 2) I have a radio tray but need a pattern for the other parts.
I don't think it is nylon, but some other plastic...
#2972
#2973
Thanks!
Thanks Matt! If you can get some dimensions so I can make up the pieces it would help. I guess there is the rear body support (which isn't too hard to figure out!!), and the bumper. I'm not sure if the 300 had the body mount piece or not...
P.S. I won't be able to make it to the GLC...again. I've been having back issues and don't think I can make the drive etc.
P.S. I won't be able to make it to the GLC...again. I've been having back issues and don't think I can make the drive etc.
#2974
Don't think so. Associated's plastic is not as stiff? as kydex and the stuff that came with the cars was smooth on both sides while all of the "kydex" I've seen is textured on one side and smooth on the other. Another thing that makes me pretty sure the Associated stuff is not kydex is the distinctive smell of kydex when you melt it like by cutting it with an abrasive wheel, it stinks!!!
I'm thinking if I can find some for sure ABS I can melt it and the Associated stuff and see if they act/smell the same or not. Similar stuff can help identify different alloys by looking at the spark color and pattern when you put pieces on a grinder...
I'm thinking if I can find some for sure ABS I can melt it and the Associated stuff and see if they act/smell the same or not. Similar stuff can help identify different alloys by looking at the spark color and pattern when you put pieces on a grinder...
#2975
Tech Regular
iTrader: (10)
in
Yeah the old Associated stuff is not Kydex. We used to replace it with Kydex because you could heat bend Kydex and the Associated polycarbonate would melt a much lower temp. Bought a couple of 4'x8' sheets of each though from a Plastic's distribution company in Phoenix in the late 70's. The white poly was a lot cheaper. I would investigate that avenue. Often you can visit the Distributor and pick out the sheet you want. Try a company like http://www.nationwideplastics.net
Don't think so. Associated's plastic is not as stiff? as kydex and the stuff that came with the cars was smooth on both sides while all of the "kydex" I've seen is textured on one side and smooth on the other. Another thing that makes me pretty sure the Associated stuff is not kydex is the distinctive smell of kydex when you melt it like by cutting it with an abrasive wheel, it stinks!!!
I'm thinking if I can find some for sure ABS I can melt it and the Associated stuff and see if they act/smell the same or not. Similar stuff can help identify different alloys by looking at the spark color and pattern when you put pieces on a grinder...
I'm thinking if I can find some for sure ABS I can melt it and the Associated stuff and see if they act/smell the same or not. Similar stuff can help identify different alloys by looking at the spark color and pattern when you put pieces on a grinder...
Last edited by ScottE1776; 08-13-2013 at 09:59 AM. Reason: info
#2976
in
Yeah the old Associated stuff is not Kydex. We used to replace it with Kydex because you could heat bend Kydex and the Associated polycarbonate would melt a much lower temp. Bought a couple of 4'x8' sheets of each though from a Plastic's distribution company in Phoenix in the late 70's. The white poly was a lot cheaper. I would investigate that avenue. Often you can visit the Distributor and pick out the sheet you want. Try a company like http://www.nationwideplastics.net
Yeah the old Associated stuff is not Kydex. We used to replace it with Kydex because you could heat bend Kydex and the Associated polycarbonate would melt a much lower temp. Bought a couple of 4'x8' sheets of each though from a Plastic's distribution company in Phoenix in the late 70's. The white poly was a lot cheaper. I would investigate that avenue. Often you can visit the Distributor and pick out the sheet you want. Try a company like http://www.nationwideplastics.net
#2977
Thanks Matt! If you can get some dimensions so I can make up the pieces it would help. I guess there is the rear body support (which isn't too hard to figure out!!), and the bumper. I'm not sure if the 300 had the body mount piece or not...
P.S. I won't be able to make it to the GLC...again. I've been having back issues and don't think I can make the drive etc.
P.S. I won't be able to make it to the GLC...again. I've been having back issues and don't think I can make the drive etc.
#2978
We are excited to announce the arrival of the multiple Italian Championship winning GT Due Chassis, the race proven platform from WRC Racing. The GT Due chassis and complete parts inventory are now available in the United States at a very competitive price to build the 2wd Pan Car class.
Later in the year we will also offer the Evo chassis, and will support both platforms for the 2014 season.
We have created a new forum to offer support and discussion of the WRC line of pan cars, with set up information, build tips, and input from the European team. In the coming days we will launch our US website and provide the list of preferred US dealers to support your local clubs and hobby shops.
And as mentioned before, we will attend the Great Lakes Challenge this month and look forward to supporting the pan car drivers at the race.
Happy Racing!
http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-ro...car-forum.html
Later in the year we will also offer the Evo chassis, and will support both platforms for the 2014 season.
We have created a new forum to offer support and discussion of the WRC line of pan cars, with set up information, build tips, and input from the European team. In the coming days we will launch our US website and provide the list of preferred US dealers to support your local clubs and hobby shops.
And as mentioned before, we will attend the Great Lakes Challenge this month and look forward to supporting the pan car drivers at the race.
Happy Racing!
http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-ro...car-forum.html
#2979
Tech Regular
real electric cars
REAL ELECTRIC CARS SAY 'BLACK & DECKER' ALL OVER. NOW BACK TO THE GAS STUFF. AARCOBRA, thought we might have run into you at Cincinnati. WRC looked very good and Rick Davis was seen running (on foot) in the pits.
Great stuff! You should have been there!!
Great stuff! You should have been there!!
#2980
?
Glad you had fun! Looks like not many racers... Who drove the WRC? As far as electric cars, not sure what you are referring to.
#2981
#2982
#2983
Tech Regular
iTrader: (10)
I just pulled the trigger on a RC300BD. Course I'm way out in Mesa, AZ but at some point I hope to be racing pan cars again. One of you mentioned the Super J front end. Associated had one piece aluminum Front end in 1976; it was made for them by R&A and was a special order (SP) part. Eventually they added it to the RC200. I totally agree that would be the way to go for a bullet proof front end that is easy to machine and simple to maintain. The second choice might be the two piece stamped front end from an RC1J or RC100. Staying away from molded plastic is probably best.
Here is a picture of the one piece.
http://www.competitionx.com/pdf/vehi...200-manual.pdf
(page 11)
Additionally. The RC100 used an aluminum chassis plate. I can remember that as the choice option on all the cars back then. The fiberglass piece on the RC200/300 might be more difficult to make. I could foresee a sheet of 7075 aluminum. Cut into a Trapezoid shape and perhaps anodized gold or blue for looks. It would look like Bruce Fields Scorpion Car from the same time period. Plus not having an hourglass shape would reduce cost and increase the number of pieces one could make from a 4x8 sheet of 7075.
Ref the above. I went through a lot more posts in this thread and noticed that HitchaRide1 had found and was using a quality fiberglass in his prototype. Hopefully that will "pan" out :-)
Here is a picture of the one piece.
http://www.competitionx.com/pdf/vehi...200-manual.pdf
(page 11)
Additionally. The RC100 used an aluminum chassis plate. I can remember that as the choice option on all the cars back then. The fiberglass piece on the RC200/300 might be more difficult to make. I could foresee a sheet of 7075 aluminum. Cut into a Trapezoid shape and perhaps anodized gold or blue for looks. It would look like Bruce Fields Scorpion Car from the same time period. Plus not having an hourglass shape would reduce cost and increase the number of pieces one could make from a 4x8 sheet of 7075.
Ref the above. I went through a lot more posts in this thread and noticed that HitchaRide1 had found and was using a quality fiberglass in his prototype. Hopefully that will "pan" out :-)
Last edited by ScottE1776; 08-22-2013 at 11:18 PM. Reason: info
#2984
Vintage Assoc. 300BD Type Cars
I just pulled the trigger on a RC300BD. Course I'm way out in Mesa, AZ but at some point I hope to be racing pan cars again. One of you mentioned the Super J front end. Associated had one piece aluminum Front end in 1976; it was made for them by R&A and was a special order (SP) part. Eventually they added it to the RC200. I totally agree that would be the way to go for a bullet proof front end that is easy to machine and simple to maintain. The second choice might be the two piece stamped front end from an RC1J or RC100. Staying away from molded plastic is probably best.
Here is a picture of the one piece.
http://www.competitionx.com/pdf/vehi...200-manual.pdf
(page 11)
Additionally. The RC100 used an aluminum chassis plate. I can remember that as the choice option on all the cars back then. The fiberglass piece on the RC200/300 might be more difficult to make. I could foresee a sheet of 7075 aluminum. Cut into a Trapezoid shape and perhaps anodized gold or blue for looks. It would look like Bruce Fields Scorpion Car from the same time period. Plus not having an hourglass shape would reduce cost and increase the number of pieces one could make from a 4x8 sheet of 7075.
Ref the above. I went through a lot more posts in this thread and noticed that HitchaRide1 had found and was using a quality fiberglass in his prototype. Hopefully that will "pan" out :-)
Here is a picture of the one piece.
http://www.competitionx.com/pdf/vehi...200-manual.pdf
(page 11)
Additionally. The RC100 used an aluminum chassis plate. I can remember that as the choice option on all the cars back then. The fiberglass piece on the RC200/300 might be more difficult to make. I could foresee a sheet of 7075 aluminum. Cut into a Trapezoid shape and perhaps anodized gold or blue for looks. It would look like Bruce Fields Scorpion Car from the same time period. Plus not having an hourglass shape would reduce cost and increase the number of pieces one could make from a 4x8 sheet of 7075.
Ref the above. I went through a lot more posts in this thread and noticed that HitchaRide1 had found and was using a quality fiberglass in his prototype. Hopefully that will "pan" out :-)
A quick comment on your thoughts. Aluminum bends and stays bent, called "tweek", That is why it was discontinued from use on pan cars. Appearently the jury is still out on the Euro Types, some use aluminum, some G-10 or CF. Fiberglass is extremely easy to work with and imho the much better than aluminum.
The shape is an option to change the characteristics of the pan and was used on aluminum pans also. Usually the "necked down" shape is wider at the front and read of the pan and would have little effect on the amount of material used.
There are many shapes and types of front end designs which could be successfully used. I favor an early Delta front that was a 1/2" square Alum bar with kingpins mounted at each end as being simple and strong.
Best of luck with your project!!
Ned
#2985
Tech Regular
iTrader: (10)
Thanks Ned. Yeah as I mentioned above I did take the time to go through quite a bit of this thread. It appeared that several folks were discussing the idea of making a new pan car and I'm extremely interested in that.
The link that I posted (did you look?) pointed to a one piece front.
I'm understand what tweak is btw and certainly Aluminum (and fiberglass) can tweak. I made mention of the aluminum because often that can be milled more cheaply. (I believe Fiberglass has more safety concerns). After I made that comment though I noticed that Hitcharide1 had found and was able to work with fiberglass at a really cheap price.
Lastly your pics on the other thread look to be an excellent prototype for the car. I would be a customer for that type of car for certain.
The link that I posted (did you look?) pointed to a one piece front.
I'm understand what tweak is btw and certainly Aluminum (and fiberglass) can tweak. I made mention of the aluminum because often that can be milled more cheaply. (I believe Fiberglass has more safety concerns). After I made that comment though I noticed that Hitcharide1 had found and was able to work with fiberglass at a really cheap price.
Lastly your pics on the other thread look to be an excellent prototype for the car. I would be a customer for that type of car for certain.
Last edited by ScottE1776; 08-23-2013 at 11:03 AM.