2LikesTekno RC EB48 Thread
07-27-2013 | 01:52 PM
#8146
Tech Adept
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 114
Actually.... I didn't ask you.
They are kyosho shocks. That first picture I posted was right after I finished assembling the car. I had not even set the ride height yet. They are fully adjustable and I can set the ride height with no problem using even the stiffest of springs. The Kyosho shocks are actually a little shorter than the Tekno. I needed to use the Hot Bodies Truggy long shock ends on the Kyosho shocks to get the length to match the tekno shocks and have the down travel needed.
I use the Kyosho shocks because I like them. Nothing wrong with the tekno shocks. Just my preference.
I just installed the new tekin T8i moor so I gained a little from the weight in the first picture. I also went to running just a little larger battery for saftey in finishing the 10 minute main. I could do it on the smaller 4s 3100mah pack, but it was super close. Rather have the extra oz and not have to sweat it.
Actual rtr weight now after working out all of the setup bugs and getting the car tuned is is about 6lb 5oz. The light car really suits my driving. I've been running it outside on large 1/8 tracks and its been durable as any other 1/8 car. Handles great and super nimble and really tuneable. My poor EB48 has been being neglected since I built this thing.
EDIT:
I just finished race prepping it for tomorrow. This is the weight RTR and ready to hit the track as of today.
They are kyosho shocks. That first picture I posted was right after I finished assembling the car. I had not even set the ride height yet. They are fully adjustable and I can set the ride height with no problem using even the stiffest of springs. The Kyosho shocks are actually a little shorter than the Tekno. I needed to use the Hot Bodies Truggy long shock ends on the Kyosho shocks to get the length to match the tekno shocks and have the down travel needed.
I use the Kyosho shocks because I like them. Nothing wrong with the tekno shocks. Just my preference.
I just installed the new tekin T8i moor so I gained a little from the weight in the first picture. I also went to running just a little larger battery for saftey in finishing the 10 minute main. I could do it on the smaller 4s 3100mah pack, but it was super close. Rather have the extra oz and not have to sweat it.
Actual rtr weight now after working out all of the setup bugs and getting the car tuned is is about 6lb 5oz. The light car really suits my driving. I've been running it outside on large 1/8 tracks and its been durable as any other 1/8 car. Handles great and super nimble and really tuneable. My poor EB48 has been being neglected since I built this thing.
EDIT:
I just finished race prepping it for tomorrow. This is the weight RTR and ready to hit the track as of today.
07-27-2013 | 02:06 PM
#8149
07-27-2013 | 02:20 PM
#8150
07-27-2013 | 02:53 PM
#8151
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,001
From: Minnesota
20% more mamps and the motor maybe puts out 20% more power. Smart move for peace of mind. You may not use more mamps in a 10 min main, but maybe. From another thread (the T8i thread), I know you plan on racing tomorrow, and as you know from that same thread, I am curious about the mamp efficiency of your new motor. Good lucl tomorrow.
With the slightly heavier weight, are you considering going to orange kyosho springs, or is the weight increase too small to worry about?
With the slightly heavier weight, are you considering going to orange kyosho springs, or is the weight increase too small to worry about?
07-27-2013 | 03:06 PM
#8152
20% more mamps and the motor maybe puts out 20% more power. Smart move for peace of mind. You may not use more mamps in a 10 min main, but maybe. From another thread (the T8i thread), I know you plan on racing tomorrow, and as you know from that same thread, I am curious about the mamp efficiency of your new motor. Good lucl tomorrow.
With the slightly heavier weight, are you considering going to orange kyosho springs, or is the weight increase too small to worry about?
With the slightly heavier weight, are you considering going to orange kyosho springs, or is the weight increase too small to worry about?
I dont think it will burn much more mah. The difference in weight is only 28g for the T8i vs HD motor with the fan , bracket and mounting and extra fan wiring. The only reason I went to the bigger T8i motor was for lower motor temps. I needed a fan on the HD motor to keep temps down. With no fan that motor would come off at 190+ after the main. With a beefy fan it came off 150-160. Im hoping the T8i lets me get the temps down with no need for a fan. I really loved the power band of the HD motor. Super smooth, but still punchy enough to clear any short run up on the track. Im hoping I can get the same feel with the T8i. Even if I need to add a little more current limiter. I was running at 70% on the HD. May need to go lower to keep the same feel. I'll see when I get it on the track tomorrow.
That was what I originally thought too. I havent tried it yet indoors. But Im really liking it on the bigger outdoor tracks.
07-27-2013 | 03:29 PM
#8153
07-27-2013 | 05:11 PM
#8155
Tech Regular
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 297
From: Riyadh, Saudi Arabia
Don't bust on him. He said 139° in the sun. That I can believe. You can actually burn the tops of your feet through black shoes over there!
I say go for that speed run!! Have a great time trying, and let us know the results
Try putting duct tape or something similar on the inside of the tire to prevent ballooning and exploding the tire. Use good glue, and plenty of it!
I say go for that speed run!! Have a great time trying, and let us know the results
Try putting duct tape or something similar on the inside of the tire to prevent ballooning and exploding the tire. Use good glue, and plenty of it!
not sure if it's due to the stiffer front springs i placed or due to the tires enlarging.
i'm still not fully satisfied after these speed runs although it shifted out of the course towers some hard terrain and i lost the front right steering arm's nut and screw but i manged to repair it buy getting some identical screws and nuts form my other rc cars spare parts ( rustler's screw & a nut from the tools shop ).
here's my setup i currently ran with :
venom 6S 35C 5000 mah
26t pinion / 44t spur
hpi Tork flux 2200 kv motor and blur esc cooled by frozen blue gel
proline badlands tires as the slick, foam tires won't hold on the asphalt here
hitech ultra torque servo
futaba 3PL radio
07-27-2013 | 05:44 PM
#8156
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,001
From: Minnesota
Do you have a tire/wheel balancer? If not, you really should. If so, cut off all the lugs on those badlands tires, tape up the insides, balance them as precisely as you can, and try again. It would be preferable to use some road tires if possible. Can you get any of the tires Traxxas uses on their XO1 ?
07-27-2013 | 05:44 PM
#8157
Anyone ever check the temp of the center diff? I changed the fluid in mine last night from 7k to 10k and added just a drop or two of 30k to top it off, I noticed it was 220°F right after my last run today when I was checking my motor temp. The motor was only in the 170°F range which made this seem even stranger, I'll rebuild the center diff based on these findings, however I wonder what normal Diff temps should be? beside the high temp reading everything else appeared to be good - no sign of a leak, diff seemed to be smooth and the car was hooked up after I changed from 4.5° rear toe in to to 5° of rear toe-in. I'm guessing the drop or two of the 30k fluid might be the reason for the high center diff temp but, I'm not sure why. Appreciate any insight to this or what to avoid doing in the future.
07-27-2013 | 06:34 PM
#8158
Tech Regular
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 297
From: Riyadh, Saudi Arabia
Do you have a tire/wheel balancer? If not, you really should. If so, cut off all the lugs on those badlands tires, tape up the insides, balance them as precisely as you can, and try again. It would be preferable to use some road tires if possible. Can you get any of the tires Traxxas uses on their XO1 ?
i can order the xo-1 tires and wheels online no issue, but i know it will keep spining as the foam did. the slick tires are not suitable here .
even my nephew is complaining with his slick tires on his suzuki motorcycle as it's often keeps him spining or loosing control on the melted asphalt.
He said that trying them on costal cities are far better than here because the salt already grind the service of the roads their.
i'll try temporarly duct taping from the outside and see.
BTW, anyone said before that high gearing with high voltage would blow the internal gears ... so far not true.
07-27-2013 | 06:53 PM
#8159
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,001
From: Minnesota
Ok. I am naive as what it's like over there, wow.
Regarding taping the inside of the tires to keep them from balloning, I was under the impression that you only taped under the tread area, and maybe not even the whole width of the tread. This leaves the sidewall untaped and still flexible, for normal bump absorbtion, suspension action, and normal mounting ease.
Also, a tire you might consider for this project that is kind of like the Badlands tire, but with much smaller lugs, is the Duratrax Derringer tire. Look it up. The Duratrax Bandito tire is a street only tire, not like the Derringer tread, but that's worth a look at too.
Good luck.
Regarding taping the inside of the tires to keep them from balloning, I was under the impression that you only taped under the tread area, and maybe not even the whole width of the tread. This leaves the sidewall untaped and still flexible, for normal bump absorbtion, suspension action, and normal mounting ease.
Also, a tire you might consider for this project that is kind of like the Badlands tire, but with much smaller lugs, is the Duratrax Derringer tire. Look it up. The Duratrax Bandito tire is a street only tire, not like the Derringer tread, but that's worth a look at too.
Good luck.
Last edited by Rufus2010; 07-27-2013 at 07:03 PM.
07-27-2013 | 08:48 PM
#8160
Tech Regular
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 297
From: Riyadh, Saudi Arabia
Ok. I am naive as what it's like over there, wow.
Regarding taping the inside of the tires to keep them from balloning, I was under the impression that you only taped under the tread area, and maybe not even the whole width of the tread. This leaves the sidewall untaped and still flexible, for normal bump absorbtion, suspension action, and normal mounting ease.
Also, a tire you might consider for this project that is kind of like the Badlands tire, but with much smaller lugs, is the Duratrax Derringer tire. Look it up. The Duratrax Bandito tire is a street only tire, not like the Derringer tread, but that's worth a look at too.
Good luck.
Regarding taping the inside of the tires to keep them from balloning, I was under the impression that you only taped under the tread area, and maybe not even the whole width of the tread. This leaves the sidewall untaped and still flexible, for normal bump absorbtion, suspension action, and normal mounting ease.
Also, a tire you might consider for this project that is kind of like the Badlands tire, but with much smaller lugs, is the Duratrax Derringer tire. Look it up. The Duratrax Bandito tire is a street only tire, not like the Derringer tread, but that's worth a look at too.
Good luck.
i already have panther gecko which is a discountinued type in addition to hb's buggy tires too.