For the 2 Stage pistons, on high traction indoor carpet I was using 30W Losi Front, 25W Losi Rear. Outdoors loose conditions I was down to 27.5W Losi Front, and 22.5W Losi Rear.

This was with the heavier exotek setup so you may find you would go even lighter.

Nice! I wouldn't be surprised if those new Tekin Pro2 motors could be awesome in the lightweight sc10 4x4.

have you tried raising up the ball stud on the front shock tower? I did this to take away some of the front bite and it calmed the steering down for me, especially on carpet.

As for the rear, assuming you are not running the M2C rear toe in block, personally I would drop the ball stud on the tower down as much as possible. I'd even just take off the 8mm mod if it helps and run say 1mm under the rear ball stud. That's basically what I was down to on my loose setup.

On high traction carpet, I then raised up the ball stud to help with traction rolling, I think I settled on 5mm or 6mm at the time.

Can anyone out there share a solid and reliable set-up for a loose outdoor 1/8th Scale type track with large jumps? It has its share of technical sections in the infield and the rack gets quite dusty when it is not watered down. This causes it to become very low grip. Its an old school type track with super-cross features and when damp has medium to good traction but definitely not blue groove. Its dominated by Losi SC 4x4 kits and the tires that work have pretty much been figured out...

Sadly and disappointingly, Associated's set-up sheets on its website has no recommendation for this type of track and surface. Its mostly indoor, clay, and blue groove type set-ups...

Thanks in advance!

Try: http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...Flurer_PNB.pdf

I run on a similar track, though clay, it is a big outdoor 8th scale track that is medium to high when wet, and crazy loose and dusty when dry... I'll actually fill out a setup sheet when I get home tonight and share it. At the begining of the year, I was really fighting to find a good setup, and was usually right near the back of the pack. Now, my truck is pretty well dialed (though there is always room for improvement) and I'm almost always in the fight for the top spots now. Last race day was called due to rain, but in the 2nd qualifier, I was 0.4s off 1st place over 6 minutes.

I gave my truck to our local fast guy during the last practice (who has been trying to sell me his old Losi 1.0 now that he has a 2.0, and has been a Losi guy for all his cars for years) and he did mention that it was a LOT better than the last time he drove it.

Sofa King: Thanks! Interestingly enough, I have been using Max Flurer's 2012 set-up for about a year now -

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...Flurer_PNB.pdf

Was thinking of trying something different as I just can't seem to get over the hump. All of the guys ahead of me I have beaten somewhat consistently in other classes. The Losi just has an advantage under these conditions. Every now and then I have managed to get 3rd on the podium but it is usually when one of the other Losi SC trucks crash out or experience problems during a race.

I wonder if Max Flurer has tried using the Exotek aluminum chassis (or uses it)?

Just seems this truck really is best for smaller indoor type tracks with high grip levels. I guess it is why Cav and Maifield don't seem to race it anywhere else.




BlueGlowBoy: Cool! Many thanks for the info and I'm curious to know what other set-ups work with this truck under the conditions I mentioned. On other kits I have tried combining elements of different set-ups and at times it has actually produced good results so looking forward to it.



Cain: Hey thanks for your PM and recommendations as well!

to me personally, the truck was designed with a different mindset than what the class ended up with.

I ended up using the following to get the most out of the truck:

- Exotek chassis
- RC Shox Center Diff
- RC Shox 2 Stage Pistons
- M2C Rear Toe In Block
- Front springs on rear

The truck really came alive with these modifications for the loose conditions with big 1/8 jumps that we have out here. If I was to purchase another SC10 4x4 to soldier on with, I would want those items again at a minimum. I even enjoyed it with the heavier chassis on carpet.

That said, the whole ultra lightweight mods being done are very interesting.

Here is my truck, all done for now. Going to work on a set up now. Probaly start witht he Max Fluer camber rods etc, and work on my own dampening package since i have 16mm Big bores on it.

Truck weighs in a 6 lbs and 5 ounces, i may even add the Exotek chassis, if i can find a good deal on one. Shooting for 7lbs. Its 49% front, 51% rear now, with 6 ounces in the front end around the servo. The numbers look better with a single shorty up front.

Only other change i may make is a 4 pole Hobbywing motor probaly.

Thanks, Krom.

looks very good!

This is what is working for me so far. It gets a little twitchy when you get off the line, but on the line it has lots of grip and is very predictable.

For rear camber upper arm washer, I didn't like how the little blue washers would let the ball stud get more leverage on it....I bent several with 3mm of washers.... To overcome this, I use one of the threaded inserts that normally goes on the inside as a starting point. With that, I can screw down both the ball stud and a flat head cap screw and it is extra reinforcement. Haven't bent a ball stud since then. (button head screws caused the ball stud to bind)

Since I can't really afford an Exotek chassis yet, I'm going to play with some extra weights around the steering servo to try to get the weight balance closer to 50-50.

forgot to attach the file....

edit: took this setup to a 1st place at the club race today. Groove was grippy...some corners were starting to move to blue groove by the end of the day. Off the line was dusty marbles (that I'm still picking out of my shoes).

Thanks for sharing BlueGlowBoy! I'm sure I'm not the only one benefiting from all the set-ups for old-school type tracks that have been recently posted...


I hear ya on the Exotek chassis! Its a costly upgrade to say the least! As for weight balance on my end, I got to do the best I can with a stick pack configuration. I only have enough saddle packs to race my B44... Anyway, seems like the Exotek chassis is getting to be an indispensible mod upgrade especially for racing in big outdoor 8th Scale type tracks...

After reading this, I remembered that between Q3 and the mains, I actually moved my outer rear camber link to the outer hole. 1 degree camber all around. Qualified 3rd before the change and after the 1st lap in a 10 minute main, I walked away from the crowd. Fast lap was 33.5, average 34.5. I was a good 20 seconds up on 2nd place by the end of the race. Felt really good when last year this track was dominated by Losi trucks....

yeah, the truck does benefit on those type of tracks with the exotek chassis. Heck, part of me always wondered how it could be with a similar chassis up front.

For getting it more consistent in the rear on loose stuff we run up here, M2C toe in block does wonders.

So I ran my SC10 4x4 tonight with the RCshox c-diff and two stage pistons and it was a totally different truck. I set-up the shocks with AE27.5 front and AE20 rear with yellow springs. I used the 8mm mod with only 4mm under the inner ball stud which I placed on outer most hole. I did use 2mm of spacers under the front ball studs. I am running a single shorty pack transverse forward with no added weight. Yellow swaybar up front and blue in the rear. The truck was much better than last week. I did have some trouble in the A main. I need to do a post race tear down of the c-diff. I was getting diff action with the front wheels lock but not when the rears are locked.

I did find out that my front swaybar was not connected last week.

You used ball dif grease right?