I'm sure this has been asked before but has anyone used those cheap Solar servos from hobby partz?

I broke my DS1015 and don't really have the cash to replace it.

This is the one I was thinking about. http://www.hobbypartz.com/33p-solarservo-d771.html


Thanks: Steve

Grass and a wet loam.

I do not now about that servo, but if your servo is broke and it only the gears, get a gear set for it. Most likely the plastic gear went in it.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Servo-Gear-Set

If anyone is looking for parts, I acquired a large amount of spares and do not have the truck anymore. Spares include arms, swaybars front and rear, full HD turnbuckle set, spare ball cups, belts, slipper pieces, front and rear gearboxes still in package, front and rear uprights, and a lot more. $100 shipped takes the whole thing. PM me with an email or phone number to text a picture to. Thanks

Newdieselguy, in my experience you get what you pay for,
especially in this hobby. I have ordered a few things from hobbypartz
And none of them lasted long, actually in the long run and actually end
up being more expensive as time is wasted and you end up getting the
Servo you had in mind anyway. Best bet is stick with a brand name
servo or any part for that matter.

I couldn't agree more. The servo is one of the more annoying items to replace on this truck so I'd buy a better servo. Savox is about as buget of a servo as I would buy. Im running a savox 1257 titanium gear in mine with no problems. Jr z8800s in my other sc10 4x4. Dont forget a little dab of blue loctight the servo horn screw. Might as well do the b4 servo mount mod while your in there.

Jstall, I agree with you on the savox, I have a 1256tg in mine and
since I installed it in August 2011 I have has no issues with it. Newdieselguy, check out
Savox especially the 12xx series they are decently priced and pretty darn good quality. I know sometimes this hobby can get
Expensive but the headache of removing the servo after you
Realize you got a bad one is easily off set if you just go with a quality
model. Please stay away from hobbypartz, they have bad customer servi e
and bad quality products. I have nothing against the Chinese, but they
have zero quality control, all of hobbypartz products are made in China, not a good thing.

I took my truck out the other day, after I fixed the servo saver after a month of being broken I've been busy lol, everything was running well till my rear shock rod came out due to not having piston screw loc tited, luckily nothing was lost, not bad considering I ran this truck for 8 months without issue. I loc tited it and now 24 hours later I am putting shock oil in.
Can't help but notice the piston seems to be rubbing interior of shock body, causing stiction? When the piston and piston rod are outside shock body they move freely, but when inserted in shock body, the shock is noticeably stiffer.

I finally have my truck hitting jumps right and flying nicely. I added no weight, even though I bought the $30 TC3 brass weights, they aren't needed as my shoo goo and drywall tape repair of my body added enough weight to the front evenly distributed so they weren't needed. I leave the jump flat and depending on distance can lift or drop my nose with throttle or brake easily. No more nose high take offs and cartwheel crashes.

I am running
Exotek Chassis V.2
Exotek hubs center hole 4mm of washers
RC Shox Center Diff V.2 6 pins
7k front diff 5k rear diff
yellow springs in front and blue front springs in the rear
32.5 weight in the front and 27.5 in the rear.
front and rear shock towers center hole, lower arms outer hole
front ballstud 2.5mm outer hole, rear ballstud 7mm inner hole and 4mm on hubs
M2C toe block 3.5
white front sway bar / blue rear sway bar
-2 camber all around
ride height 24mm front 22mm rear
J concepts Barcodes Green
Tekin RX8 10 drag,85 current limiter,50 brakes, linear curve, geared 14/60
Tekin Pro 4 4600
temps esc 110 motor 149
Savox 1258 TG
Spektrum DX3R Pro


I wonder if I need to switch to different color sway bars? Any suggestions from fellow exotek chassis users? My truck is easier to control in air since I can actually control it now, but I feel like my suspension needs a little looksy.

Make sure the shock cartridge is not cross threaded... the piston will drag on one side if it is.

I run 30wt in the front with yellow springs and 27.5wt with blue rear springs on the rear.

For sway bars, I use blue in the front and orange in the rear and it's like it's on rails.

I ran one of the Solars for the last couple months in a Jammin 4x4. It's a little slow but it works.

Will the 2wd sc10 rear diff work in the 4x4 ? Ae list the trans ratios for both to be 2.6:1

from what a buddy of mine saw when he tried it, he said no.

Gear pitch is different.

This week I finally got to test changes. I tried the following:

1) Overdrive
2) RCShox 2-stage pistons

1) Overdrive: This didn't really seem to help to much on the tight medium grip indoor track that I am racing on. Since I am planning to swap out the VTS4 for a RCShox V2 center diff I will go back to the 20T. I did notice that my belt was very loose with both pulleys at max tension with the 19T. I got a new belt.

2) RCShox 2-Stage Pistons: I used AE 25wt. rear and AE32.5 wt rear and these worked pretty good. I had a good improvement in handling. I may need to reduce the front oil thickness a little maybe 30wt. What is a good combination of AE oils for yellow springs.

Next I will be overhauling the front diff changing to 7K oil and installing the 20T belt gear. In addition I plan to install the RCShox V2 center diff with 5 pins.

I ran a 4000mAH Shorty pack transverse forward and it performed very well. I used only 2300mAh in a 5 minute heat race and lasted a 7 minute final without any concerns. the car is very light and feels like my 2wd right now. I will weigh it and post later. It seems that a 540 2 pole motr may even work in this chassis now!! There seems to be hope for this car as I am starting to race it more.

I don't have the car running the best yet so I finished 3rd in the B-Main against mainly Losi chassis. I'm not too far from the lead lap. I am really hoping that the c-Diff makes a huge difference. I plan to also go to the 2.2 front sway bar. I have way too much steering and the rear mid corner traction is not good enough. I have the 8mm mod and dropped camber link to 5mm using the outer most hole at the shock tower to get what I needed.

Has anyone tried the longer wheelbase?