that is an adjustment we lost with the hex conversion.

I have sthe same issues. Drive on packed dirt; dusty conditions. Rear is always loose on corner exit.

I started with about your setup, but have switched to Green Rear/Black Front (V2 springs). Also running A hub with no washers for higher roll center in the rear. Rear seems to break a little more predictably.

The trade off with rear roll center is corner rotation (higher rc means easier rotation), so I'm planning to try higher front RC, brown front springs (for more turning) and lower the rear RC (more washers). Hoping to add steering and limit rotation at the same time. Basically the Hartson setup for Motorama (on AE website).

Outdoors on real dirt is so much more fun! Conditions changing all the time!

Some of the experts/pros are shaving down the steering block to regain the adjustment.

That's what I thought in theory as well. Here's my revised theory: When you have additional droop, it takes longer for weight to transfer to the rear. With this, you have more exit steering.

Well, now that I reread it, both are correct. Just depends on what part of the turn you're referring to.

Regarding pistons:

Stated: piston/total dia/total area
2x1.5 = 3.0mm = 3.53mm
2x1.6 = 3.2mm = 4.02mm
2x1.7 = 3.4mm = 4.54mm

3x1.4 = 4.2mm = 4.62mm
4x1.3 = 5.2mm = 5.31mm

Still testing and trying to match my fluids accordingly for track conditions...

(So there is no confusion, now stated as total area of holes as well.)

That's why making generalizations sucks!

Just try it all out and see what works for you, IMO. I learn the most just experimenting on practice days messing with tires suspension etc. and not dwelling on that fact that my setup doesnt match a pro's setup.

Side note: A bunch of people on here are complaining about the 1.6 pistons as an example and I couldn't be happier with them. Don't knock it till you try it. Going to try the 1.4's this weekend as well.

EDIT: to AE Matt above, I think a more accurate comparison would be the hole areas added together, and perhaps the circumferences added together as well because that's the surface where 'sheering' occurs.

why do people keep adding the numbers? IMO, the math means nothing. You have to try them. I really like the pack of the 1.4x3 for my track. It also seems to soak up the rough parts better and the corning is much more balanced and consistent for me. Put the calculator away and drive.

The combined total hole diameter I cited above = hole diameters added together (per piston)
...I realize this is stating the obvious. Just food for thought

Negative. Area of a circle =pi(r^2). r^2 = radius squared, not the diameter. This isn't rocket science.

Simple statement about diameter of the piston holes...not area...not radius...and not arguing.

Agree 100%.

I havent tried the 1.4x3's, I want they were out of stock out here for awhile. I agree about the math part. Does not matter it all matters how the car feels on your track that you drive. Cool you guys know how to calculate that but it doesn't really do you much good when your car isn't handling the way you want.

That is fine aeMatt. But adding up the diameters is pretty useless. Smaller holes more pack. more holes more pack. That is the easy part of it. Now how the numbers and size of the holes effect corning is just something you need to feel. Math wont tell you how a 1.4x3 will feel on your track in the corners to you. Sadly everyone wants a quick answer, so they can spend the least amount of money. And I can understand that, but nothing at all beats practice and testing. I love the 1.4x3's some people really like the 1.7's or 1.6's. The funny thing is with the V2's everyone ran #2's pretty much. With the Big bore shocks, drivers seem to find more differences in the feel. I have not tried the 1.5 + 1.1 avids yet, but for me the 1.4x3 feel great on my home track. I am told the avid's and the ae non machined can be changed without removing the shaft from the body, so its pretty easy to do the changes. My machined AE 1.4's are a little tight, but I might be able to remove them without removing the shafts also.

That's because the car used to bottom out all the time. Now that it's not bottoming out, we can actually tune it.

What will adding a stiffer or softer rear spring do?

I need more rear traction in the corners?

I am currently running Green/green front and rear and I have black and white rear springs to work with.

Thanks!
-Venom