Hey guys. Sold my B4.1 last summer and didnt really follow whats been going on with the B4.2. Just got one the other day and looking at upgrades for it.

Is everyone still just dealing with the FT rear hubs? I see exotek makes some but only gives you the option to run the A position. Any other options out there?

I was also looking at the Avid shock standoffs. Really don't like the stock setup of metal on metal. Anyone tried these? If so how are they durability wise? All the Avid stuff I have ever tried has always worked great so I would expect these to be no different.

Any other suggestions on things to look at let me know.

Thanks

Rear hubs are fine just use the short ball stud that comes with the kit. I use the AVID A/C tower. The shock standoffs work awesome! Start with kit set-up and go from there.

I was also looking at the JC front axles. I did the hex conversion on my B4.1 and never really liked the C clips.

Hideeho
Avids are great as long as you don't slide the rear wheel into the wall repeated (ask me how I know). From what I've seen, exotek makes a good product, but you have found the weakness, a tower only. I haven't seen it in person, but the yaiba hub has everything I'm looking for in a hub. 0* toe, vertical ball stud, c-tower height, add spacers to get a-tower height.

The yaiba hub is sexy

oh what will we do without a mid motor version probably win another worlds.

Hideeho
The real question is what is AE going to do if worlds is super high grip & one or more if the team wants to run the centro or xfactory chassis & wins?

Seeing as how Amain just announced that they hired Joey Christianson to choose new local dirt and design the layouts... Id say chances of it being really high grip are now gone.

They're hauling out the old dirt because it was too high grip/abrasive/hard to work with.

if memory serves the last worlds track had astro turf on part of it and AE did ok there

Have been testing 4x1.3 with one hole glued closed on the new taper pistons 35/32. Felt really good. I ran the 3x1.4 for a few weeks and didn't really like how the car felt.

RNPNICK,

heres some things to try..

FRONT
inside on tower/out on arm
camber link inside on tower/a hole on hub
2mm bumpsteer
2x1.6 with 32.5 wt ae/green
2 internal limiters this gives u more forward bite coming out of tight 180's cause of the weight transfer to the rear
RAISE RH to 25mm
REAR
inside on tower/inside on arm
3degree inboard toe an 2 degree antisquat block
standard unshaved u brace with 1 shim/ a hole
hubs center/ RUN 0* rear hubs ( the .5 hubs sometimes has a reverse affect an actuallt will make the car get loose..
2x1.6 with 27.5wt
2 limiters/ greens or white rears
Raise RH to 25mm

put 1/4 oz in each rear triangle, plus the ae weight that guess under trans,an 1/20s next to rec..
-Personlly i would go back to the stock speelectronics mounting spots so u get ur chassis roll back an can take advantage of the camber gain..
-0 degree hubs
-try 23/81 or 22/78 to move motor..

But how well maintained is ur car? i mean is the bearing slop, or rear axles binding, diff need rebuilding???

also what speedo r u running cause now adays when brent theike told me when he sent me my speedo to get firmiliar with the different adjustment cause the totally will change ur cars feel, handling, an traction...
is ur EPA,dr,expos set right?

I did not see that but that is so awesome. Can't wait to see what he comes up with

Some onboard footage. Mounted my GoPro on my B4.2, it's pretty stable.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j2fo_...rbEI6A&index=2

Ugh...but it's red!!! I guess I'm going to have to buy it anyway.

I will be running my B4.1 (with all the 4.2 hop ups) outdoors for the first time this summer...A hub position to start with right?

Grass, if you dont care abut the C ub, the exoteks are fine. In either case I would pick up Ti ballstuds for the tubs.