i haven't got a ebuggy yet so i was wondering if i should wait if there was a 2.0 coming.

Well I did have a buggy it was sold on me that's why I ask

I am not aware of it at the moment but with Toy fair around the corner anything possible.

still I think the E buggy is very stable at this point... I have not converted mine to V2.0 as I am extremely happy as it is

Just opened my kit, first step center diff, it appears to be missing the washer that hold the rubber washer??? Second step I am again missing the metal washer. Third step I am missing the 4 washers that go on the 4 gears???? Was there a design change and the gears have the washers molded in now ? Or I am I just missing something here. Please help I really want to start my build and now I'm confused as to whether I'm missing parts. Looks like I'm missing washers for the front and rear diffs as well. Someone help ! Lol

The cad drawings in the manual of the gear vary from the gears that are in my kit, it looks like the metal washers are now molded into the back of the gears? Can anyone verify this for me please ...

I just saw on Amain and my kit came with v2 diff gears which eliminates the backing washers, but says I need to increase fluid 2,000 cst... Do I still need to add shims to reduce slop, with center diff assembled outdrives have 1mm of play... And it looks like the gasket is already going to leak, I think I will have to order the Mugen gaskets

waves hand ...... "Those are not the washers you are looking for "

The diffs have been updated shimming no more needed for the center diff... design excellence

I built a Sport couple days ago and fits perfectly and works smoothly. so no worries...

Thanks toughbeard... What about the front and rear diffs... The kit came with a separate updated page that asked for 3mm of spacers for front and rear diffs but kit only supplied 2mm ... Assembled the front and rear diff and they feel like the center diff.. Once assembled each outdrive has about 1mm of play... I ordered more shims just in case ... obviously want to avoid stripped gears as much as possible, but I'm not sure how much play is too much...I'm new to this buggy and still learning rc, just started in August... Thanks for your help

The outdrives with the new gears will move in and out. This is normal and does not require shimming.

again no shims inside the fr and rr diffs with new gears. you get thin shims that go over the bearings to adjust slide and 2 for the pinion.

just make sure its smooth just keep an eye on the wear of your gears. once done correctly the drive train works perfectly... below is my GT drive train...

http://youtu.be/kyI5iFDGcSw

Thanks chicky and tough.... I can't wait to finish building this and get out to race...

Hello to everyone here.

First I will like to say I absolutely love my 811Be.

Anyone here have any experience with V2 front spring. The v2 springs seems very long, with the collar fully un-winded the car still sits at 30-31mm ride height. A local Team driver said use the droop screw on the A arm to control ride height but that will leave no sag in the suspension travel.

Anyone have any ideas, I don't think the droop screw should be use to control ride height.

I like the new diff ideology of thicker oils. As it is, I've had my car 2 years and not a single diff leak. Thicker oils just make this even better and may hold up longer between rebuilds.

Wheather it be you or a bud. Sometimes that tuning window for our 811e can be tricky or it behaves wildly different from track to track. There are many great set ups out there but you still hear some people say it didn't work for them or that they don't drive like a pro and the car is still too aggressive.

This is the set up I use as a slower but deliberate type of racer. The car is very point and shoot, smooth and stable with this set up. No off power slides in turns unless you bleep throttle. No mods or after market needed other than springs. And this set up works great for tight to wide open tracks as well as dry to moist. I do not like having to wrench as I get older so this set up is ideal for the person that wants to tune it and leave it sorta mentality.

Remember, if you are going to try this set up all the adjustments need to be made in their entirety. Each one of my adjustments complements another, so missing one will not have the car feeling as I described. After you have the geometry adjusted, just use tires, shock oils & shock springs to fine tune for various tracks. I go lighter in the shocks than listed here mainly because my batteries weight is 390g total. I do recommend 16T stock btw.