Technically you would be correct. At least I was in blinky unlike some other cars that were not.

Just wondering if anyone has had issues with the new style capacitor that currently ships with the Reventon Pro. I had one cook off and puff on the bench a few minutes after being connected for the first time. All wiring was correct and clean. The new style capacitor has a circuit board on the end. I just sizzled on its own. Luckily I heard it sizzle and was sitting right in front of it. I had just finished calibrating the ESC to my radio and was about to take it out for a quick test run. I immediately unplugged the battery. The sizzling stopped after about 5 seconds but not before spewing capacitor juice into my chassis. I called Speed Passion Tech support. They were great (thanks Albert!). They told me to try another capacitor and see if everything else is still ok. I cut off the puffed capacitor and spliced in a new capacitor from my Reventon R kit. It's the older production type capacitor that is just a wired capacitor (no small PCB on end). Everything seems perfect now. I babysat it for 30 minutes to make sure it was stable (no smoke, yay!). Ran the car for about 10 minutes and all seems fine. It looks like the factory may have soldered the red/black wires into the PCB in reverse or a component on the small PCB failed. Anyone know what the differences or reason between the new and old Capacitors? Anyone else have any issues with the new Capacitor? Glad I didn't walk away.....never leave your LiPo's connected!

Not working for my sony vaio

Wat a mess here.
Im a diehard speedpasion fan but i dont now if i want to buy a reventon pro right away
But i need 2 new speedos!
Wat is the biggest problem here.
Is in hardware software or the missing knowlege of the speedo.

so i have 3 revent pro's.2 of them installed and running with no problems.
also controlling them with a futaba 3pks with spetrum module.

1-on stock-0
1-on mod-1

will be putting 3rd in today ,but all is good so far...

what is the lowest setting on drrs before things start acting up.still have alittle to much punch

WHAAT! those freakin cheaters

So I am a bit confused by the comments about the computers suddenly not working.

- With my GT2.0, I have a separate battery powering my ESC. I have the Digi box attached via the receiver wire. I then attach my USB cable to my Digi box and computer.

-Usually I have the SP software open, turn on my ESC and then select the ESC from the list when making adjustments to my ESC software profiles. I've never had any issues. I've using an older IBM Thinkpad running XP.


Without a battery to power the ESC, do the newer versions somehow get power from the digi box and the power coming from the computer, or is this some random freak thing? I would expect a battery is still needed right?



MOmo

usb supplies power. Castles dont require the battery to be plugged in either. I always thought having to have a charged back was silly.

My R Pro came with a regular cylinder Cap no pcb board on it.

Cap reads F25V 2200uf

I wonder if there was some running change in the production run.

if i want to chance the cord colors on my Reventon Pro what gauge cord should i buy, what will be the best tou use with the Reventon Pro + Tekin Redline 6.5T?

Best Regards.

I've just wired my Schumacher SX3 with the SP RevPro & SP V3.0 6.5 with 12AWG wire, nice and safe

Your right. New models dont need a battery. And im a idiot for not reading the directions.

Yep, I am starting to hear from others that quite a lot of folks weren't running blinky including folks that won. I guess a gentleman's agreement and a $20 challenge was just too "easy." It doesn't ruin the fun I had at the Fall Brawl, but it sure is disappointing to hear that these folks weren't capable of enjoying a race with an even playing field.

Can someone post a link to what I will need to buy to program this esc.

http://www.speedpassion.net/shop/det...816801V2&c=ESC

Thanks!

I was wounding if they have an 1/8 system is there esc and motors any good?