Try to ignore the negativity !!!


Fact is the Sc10 is the Roar National Champion after all is said .


The Lrp Flow or the SXX V2 performs great in a 4x4 SC truck , just remember to use the fan included .
Performs better then any and stays very cool ...

Cain , good news ,you just
learned toe out improves tracking & stability on the straights ....

Welp, time for me to move on and put my SC10 4x4 up for sale. I plan to keep reading/posting/helping in this thread as I really enjoyed my truck, but with my converted SCT dialed in and an official Caster SCT in the mail for testing I need the electronics from my SC10.

I know you will be back soon .....


Lots of stuff coming .....

A bit yes, but a diff-filling per day no! The worst is: i can't test it more than 1 day, because the race is this week. My only chance is to use the bearings with metal-seals from the idler-gear. Even the diffs without bearingmod from a friend dont leak as much as mine.

I ended up experimenting with grease instead of fluid for a while to minimize maintenance and it worked remarkably well. In the rear I would run the diff 2/3 filled with AE black grease and the front diff was also 2/3 full, but a 50/50 mix of racers edge heavy duty diff grease and AE black grease. This made the car feel very close to 10k/5k front/rear and it would never leak. You don't want to pack the diff full, or it can lock up. Just enough so that the centripital force keeps the spider gears mostly submerged. This was with the center diff, so if you are running the standard slipper you might fare well with straight up Racers Edge grease in the front to get close to a 30k feel.

Unfortunately WC, looks like its opposite day by you, unless you mean give your truck less toe out versus a little toe out as you said, you will not improve tracking / stability on the straights.

Or, as has been described here:

http://www.competitionx.com/rc-racin...oe-in-toe-out/

I am assuming that wander is NOT the effect that the OP desires which "giving your truck a little toe-out" will induce.

But regardless, for those curious which way to go if you feel both of us and the various guides on the net are full of it, give it a try both ways and report back ... Best way to confirm which is right is to give it a try and see.

Sorry to see you go Krio. You still going to be selling SC10 4x4 parts?

Cody - When you do your rebuild, are you using the black grease or similar around places where the oil can leak?

Cain , from experience I know .....

Good luck , BTW at your track the straight is not fast or long enough to even add toe out....

There is silicone diff greas you can buy rather than using black grease. It's good stuff

Hey just a quick question about the m2c block. What is the minimum and max toe amounts possible And by what increments can you adjust by?

I use greenslime on the red o-rings, AE black-grease on metal-parts like the outdrive and the bearings and hylomar on the paper-sealing. (it's kind of a sealant, you can see it on the pics. http://www.hylomar.com/) I also have the white diff lube from AE, but i think it's for ball-diffs, isn't it?

Same here WC and I am assuming from experience those guides were written as such as well ... and just an FYI my experience concerning the toe-in / out setting comes from tracks small (50ft or less) and up to around 200+ or more ft straights with a variety of vehicles from tracks out east as well as here.

So unless the SC10 4x4 suddenly responds totally different to general toe settings, all else being the same, that other 2wd, 4wd, etc 1/10 thru 1/8 vehicles, (which, from the rear toe in perspective, has behaved as I would expect on the track based on what a variety of guides say when using the M2C blocks) should work out essentially the same.

But, again, for those on the fence on what to believe, give it a try and report back. Nothing wrong with coming to your own conclusions and its something free to check.

Cain , the suggestion I gave is a good one to try .

Long straights with high speed is where it helps most ...

I had this problem befor then I changed to mip pistons and center diff and I can run with the 1/8 cars my setup is posted

I believe max is 3.5 toe in, as for minimum, I think its 2.5 degrees (have to look and confirm). From what the manual says, it can be adjusted in .25 increments.

I am very curious to see how the lower toe settings can potentially help on the tight indoor track I plan to run it on.


Yup, I believe you believe that. As I said for the OP or anyone else, give both a try and see what you think, and report back. Who knows, maybe it works and contradicts what those guides are saying, maybe it doesn't.

Kind of like the +8mm mod. Best way to see what it does it to try it.

Cain , you can go by that set-up advise you like .
I still will be using the advise from my Teammates from Ae ...