3D's have about the same pin size/height as PL Holeshots. 3D's have the reinforcing bars on the outside though.

They work well on a lot of different surfaces, including dusty outdoor as long as there is a hard-base. Indoor too if it's a newer layout with some dust on it. They work good on grooved and slick-groove surfaces. My local track is usually really hard, faintly dusty and varies from med to low-bit and even slick. They work pretty much all the time and are safer/easier to drive on that DD front/Barcode rear. And have a bit more linear steering feel than just barcodes all around.

wow your track sounds very similar to mine. thanks for the reply, what compound are you using. we always run gold/clay here.

anybody else mixing and matching fronts on indoor hard clay? some guys here are running pressurepoints front and barcodes rear.

RX8 under belt with fan:



... just fits with only the two screws holding the fan on and the cage trimmed on the other side.

any shots from both sides?

I'll admit I took a shot at George. He has almost 1000 posts in this thread alone, a number of them flat out wrong, a few very valuable (he was the first one to see Scott Browns coupled slipper), most of them low content. He has been on both sides of:

1. Use the coupled slipper indoor
2. Don't use the coupled slipper indoor
3. There is nothing wrong with the stock slipper
4. The VTS slipper is a huge upgrade over the stock slipper
5. No chassis brace is needed
6. Only the AE Chassis brace is any good
7. There is nothing wrong with the rear roll center
8. You must modify the rear roll center
9. Stock arms don't warp and are flexy
10. stock arms warp and RPM arms are stiffer

And that's just what I can remember off hand.

But mostly I'm down on him because he's two laps down and in the way of the leader when it counts, then makes 1000 posts like he knows what's up.

I run 3ds when it is wet or dry and dusty - essentially when there is no groove or groove is starting to develop but it's not clean enough to run a more appropriate tire. It's a great tire if you can't make up your mind what to run because of mixed conditions.

Looks first class.....

Pretty much sums it up.

I'll run all-green sometimes. Blue front/green rear sometimes and blue all around sometimes. Just varies with traction.

We can never run gold on our indoor tracks.

I was looking at the 3d's. I saw a 2wd buggy run them and they were so stuck get could barely make the turns. How well did the green rear and blue fronts work? this is what I was thinking for my low-med grip track.

FYI , i was agreeing with you!

It works fine. I use it a lot in 2wd as well. Just depends on what the track is doing.

M3/4 or Blue/Green lets you carry more speed into the corner (and out) without the rear end snapping around on you mid-corner.

Handy to use if you have a mid or high-speed area dealing you fits. It's not as big of a change as it sounds, it just kind of smooths the steering reaction a bit and helps keep the rear in line.

I know. You had the best quote to cite without going off and making it personal toward somebody who would get butt hurt about it.

I always run the same compound f/r ona 4w. I ran DD FRONTS and 3d rears on on my Sc10 2w for a dozen laps (when the track was super green) a couple weeks back and thought it pushed a little, but a certain b44.1 driving the wrong way on the track finished that experiment.

That has to be the center chassis that makes that possible! I had to take off the fan, and even cut off the "cage" thing on my RX8 to get it to fit under the belt. Definitely looks clean though man.

Yes, the Exotek chassis with the Exotek saddle pack mount allows you to mount the ESC further forward on the chassis:

Maybe I missed something a few thousand pages back, what's a center chassis?