"In general, longer links make the car more calm, and gives it more traction, and actually even improves forward bite. Having the links as far in on the shock towers as possible, makes for the most stable car. Raising the link on the tower, has a similar effect of lengthening it, in that it gives more traction."

so yeah, raising the inside increases traction, so 8mm outside and 5mm inside would be less traction no? Why do so many setups say 0 inside? I would think you would want 4-5 inside with no 8mm mod to make it less twitchy.

8mm mod

5 mm under ball stud on rear tower = more traction

7mm = less traction

8mm mod is for HIGH BITE only to prevent traction roll.

It's not for low-med grip conditions.

put 5-6mm under rear ball stud and you should be able to come off corners better

Yes.

I wonder if there are your three laps right there.

Off topic - I trust nothing I read on the Internet unless I can independently prove it myself. Even if I wrote it.

I'm going to be taking a break from off road for a few weeks so I can concentrate on the Kimbrough 4:00 this weekend and the IITC in Vegas at the end of next month.

http://blog.jconcepts.net/wp-content...-off_800px.jpg

i wonder if jconcepts will offer the "maifield extended hi-flow wing" lol

I guess the length of the camber rod is affecting this, but I run middle hole on hub (no mod) and one washer under inner ball stud and if I need a little more traction I go to two washers. I even run the 3.5° hub for additional bite in the rear compared to stock 3°.

Raise ball stud, more traction per the manual and my seat of the pants experience. Higher ball stud = more chassis roll per AE.

But thats the opposite of what you are saying above...

camber links are going to be my doom. Ok, so if my 4x4 is loose on a medium bite track, I want a longer link and maybe some washers inside, but i do not want the 8mm mod.


oh, hey, maifields setup for nats is up, just noticed.

ok, I was looking at Maifields setup. he calls the track medium bite and cav calls it high bite. I am not sure his tires are for medium bite. IMO Double Dee's are medium bite. I did notice not 8mm mod though and the low amount of up travel limiters plus the ends unscrewed seems like the ball cups would be an issue.

I've been to WCRC and to me the track is more of a high bite clay track and gold barcodes work great there the last time I ran there, so could have been a typo on AE's end of his setup not sure............

Here's a link:

http://www.teamassociated.com/setupsheets/SC10_4x4/

anyone got some pics of how they do the fan mod over the motor? Lost the ones I had and want to give it a try for the next race.

WCRC is high bite so Barcodes in gold or Suburbs MC all day long. Some people try other tires and compounds but always seem to end up with these.

I read it wrong, says high bite track. ok. So if I were for a medium bite track, I would take his setup and raise the rear ball stud and maybe go b hole on the rear hub?


He has 60g under the slipper? jesus, does he run a gear cover, lol. I am not sure I could get that much there.


What is a "steel diff insert" list in the setup?

Also, I have no idea what stop gap button head screw is. never even say anyone use stop gap before.

seems like ALOT of weight to have there, i thought it was alot when i put 40g on each side of the servo. wonder if its supposed to be 6.0g lol.

maybe similar to what they did to the sc10 gear diff.


normal sc104x4 diff. asc91005


updated sc10 2wd diff. asc9828

its the hole on your front hub located towards the outside-back of the hub, it limits max throw of steering due to ackerman, i always have just ran a button head screw in there, nice to see it listed on a setup that way, i always thought that was 0mm, guess its technically .5mm.

Yeah, gold barcodes are the tires for SCT at that track.