Washers, no washers, a few washers, the center diff is NOT going together.

Pretty dumb so far lol. Was so excited now I cant even build the center diff.

What's stopping it from going together? Did you double check to make sure you had the correct gears? If I remember correctly the front/rear diffs take different internals.

Do the gears seem not to mesh with each other, clearence? I'm sure more specifics would help a ton with getting the problem solved instead of just saying "it's dumb"

TKR1222 shims will be loose until you install it later into the diff mount.

For the internals do not use the small TKR5146 shims. Once you break in the diff it will be smooth.

Please see the addendum for the instructions on our website. I'd post it here but I'm out of the office on my phone.

Make sure you have the cross pins in right. There should be some flat spots on the pins? Make sure they are over lapped. The notches should be put over each other like a Lincoln log.

Here you go:

http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...s_addendum.pdf

Look at the groove or pin guide on the side wall of the gear case. If one is deeper than the other put the gears/pins in the deep one first.

I'm excited to build and try out our EB-48's too Jay...
.....As you know, I've never really been one to jump ship super often with R/C cars, (especially since we just bought the Serpent 811-BE's a couple months ago, which are running pretty great), but I really like the EB-48's layout, and light running weights right outta the box... I literally spend hundreds (at serpents crazy rip-off parts prices) getting my serpents hefty weight substantially reduced, and I'm still heavier than what the EB-48 "is supposed to be" , running the exact electronics ... Just like racing real cars, power to weight ratio is EVERYTHING.......Joe

Ok I've put together the center diff multiple times, and the flat side of the pins is fine. When I tighten the screws at all they just lock up and wont move at all. I loosen the screws and they spin fine. I take the spur completely off they spin fine.

Seriously not understanding what I'm doing wrong. Just rebuilt all of my diffs on my scte no problems at all. Rebuilt my xray diffs no problems. Am I going to have to deal with this everytime I redo the eb48 diffs?

Do they lock up completely or they are notchy? Maybe the screws are too tight. Try tightening down and backing off 1/4 turn on each one. The diff may be a little notchy until fully broken in, but it definitely shouldn't lock up completely.

It's notchy when I set them loose but then there to loose. They do lock up completely.

I'm out with friends right now, sure wish this would have gone together better. Not a goo impression that I've built tons of diffs and never had this proble. Will try to just build the front and rear diffs when I get home.

Try an extra gasket on the diff.

Bet that'll do it.... Heck, It took 3 gaskets (two serpent, and one Associated) when I put a plastic center spur gear on my 811be(guess this is the hobby aspect of things).... anyone else run into this on their EB-48 ? just wanta get some extras lined up if I'm gonna likely need them during my build....that is: if the additional gasket approach takes care of it......Joe

Where do I get an extra gasket? Is the gasket specific to this or can I. use like an acts or xray one?

We can send you one if needed. However we have been looking into this for the last couple hours. There are a few local racers who put their cars together and a couple reported the center diffs being tight, but not locked. Others had no issues at all which is strange.

So there is a component in the diffs that is not consistent from part to part. We have narrowed it down to the big shim under the bevel gear (TKR5145 - 6x17x.3mm shim). We looked at a few of them (new) and noticed some are warped (coned up or down). Others are flatter. We then looked at the same shim from a heavily used (smooth) center diff and it was totally flat. That inconsistency in the shim is pushing the bevel gear into the diff mesh causing the irregularity.

One of the center diffs at the track was pretty tight - not smooth, but after breaking it in for 30 seconds, it made a huge difference and was waaaay smoother. The short break in time flattens the shim out and the irregularity went away. Their car is good to go and they are racing tonight .

NOTE: This seems to only affect the center diff, which makes sense as the plastic gears can distort and warp (they all do). For what it's worth, we put one of the steel spurs on one of the production center diffs and the diff felt normal.

Ironwolf, PM me your phone number (or email us at [email protected]) and we can see if we can work through a solution. We'll send out whatever parts you need to make sure the car operates as intended.

We expected to have some issues, but the diffs weren't one of them . We tested this car for almost a year but it seems the production diff parts are just a little different.

We are confident that after the center diffs are broken in and used that they will be smooth.

Let's all help each other get the information out and work together. I hope everybody knows that we are on this like flies on $#!+. If anyone else is having issues after breaking in the center diff, please let us know.

Thanks.

So far my kit is going together really well. A real joy to build. I would also like to report that my center diff is slightly stiff, but I'm sure it will all be fine when they are broken in.