yes mip 30dollars and it makes competion and rebound ajustable i used 35w front and 30w rear you can drop it from a ft a it will botom but not bouns at all i never felt so planted on the track as long as i stay on the race line in the fluff it is the same i was ceeping pace with a gas 1/8 hotbodys last night much harder to upset the truck it looked like i had 2lb add in the truck but still nemble

No way the clicker can even move
if you tighten down the clicker nut all the way ...

Go ahead , install a piece of tubing , only difference it will make is you won't have to tighten down the lock nut as far on the top shaft .

The lock nut will still lock the clicker the same as if you had no tube .

tip:
Check and make sure you assembled the clicker correctly.

I constantly run across people absolutely loving the MIP realshocks stuff. I plan on getting the valve kit and sticking it in. easy to understand how it works and I like the finite adjustments made available. $28 at amain and free shipping , woohoo. Thats just one day of PBJ for lunch lol!

Anyone have some good hint , tricks, or findings on how these parts have worked for you?

Thanks!

whach bk get his ass spanked
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bMAAc...layer_embedded
they give you the right shims to start but i would like to try the harder stack with liter oil maybe 30w f and 27.5w r with 2.4 or 2.5 stack it come with 2.1

im going down to my track to see it i can brake in to the 17s be back in 30min

What am I really looking at here besides the leader being faster. The cars don't appear to handle any different from one too the other. One driver just seems better too me.

Yeah , Easy to tell who can drive and Bk usually
only practices one or two packs .....

@WC: sorry, with fully tightened i meant as much as possible with the spring. So a bit more than 3mm, maybe 4 or 5. Now i tightened it 3mm as shown in the manual and the clicker definitely moves! i can even see it move, so it can't be the belt or the diff. The clicker pulley driver has a bit damage, but not much.

tighten the nut until it no longer turns

Sounds like you have already worn off the paws on the gear ....

A tight lock nut will not hold if the gears are worn out .

glue it if you don't have a replacement & need full time 4w drive

Nothing related to the sc10, just sharing my misery.

Car wouldn't start this morning.
Check battery first, all good.
Maybe the AEM EMS needed to be reset and reflashed. Nope.
Thought it may be the clutch disengagement sensor (tells CPU your clutch is pressed in) so I jumped the two wires to trick it into thinking the clutch was in all the time. That required me doing a head stand in the foot well trying to get at it buried under the dash. Cussing and banging ensued.
Got it and not change. Not a click or anything to indicate that the starter is getting any power.

Thought for a second and thought why didn't I try this to begin with before I had bloody knuckles?

Starters right under the top intercooler pipe at the back of the motor so an easy target for a small hammer. Tapped it a couple times and tried it out. Started right up, leaving to get a new starter now

thats odd. can you take a pic with the covers off ?

Wow!!! That is som friggin nice driving!!! Make me look like dooooodooooo...

His nose was heavy up until 3:11, but at 2:58 was a nice drift and after that , super smoothness came to the party... It handles nice for sure.

Wow!

8mm of spacers on the shock shaft and outside the shock body is a bit more than I expected to avoid outdrive problems...

Works great , still have the same amount of suspension travel too .