thank you

Read their thread I posted Franks results they responded its one page back on their ebuggy thread

That's awesome you have a shop and have the knowledge to make custom parts. I have a suggestion. Create some alum shock towers that don't bend!
I've gone through 2 serpents and 1 kings head in this e buggy very quickly. I'm going back to CF's with the M2C bra as it last months instead of race days. If they had thicker center to them they might last longer.
I think the e buggy just is faster and has more weight so it does more damage to the parts quicker. The shock towers are one of the first things to hit the ground during a tumble.
"Build it, and they will come"

LOL...I've been thinking about wearing ear plugs on the stand to. Every time I get in first the announcer starts talking me up then I fall under pressure.

RCMayer...I'm interested in a set of these battery straps. I want to shred some weight off my BE. There was a post way early on in this thread were he cut half the battery box away, did away wit the lids, and I think velcroed it to hold the batteries.
I like your idea better though for holding the battery and I'll cut 1/2 the tray out. THIS BUGGY ROCKS..... but its a little heavy. Your straps work on the same design as schumacher buggies and they are successful.

Your kidding? Either your motivated or you don't have enough cars
I have 3 Serpents to keep up with. I change my diffs every 2 to 3 months and they work fine. Its a whole day project for me to change the diffs on one car.
Not much time for racing if your spending days changing diff oils every race day.

>>>>>>Although, I run on a large outdoor track, which is fast and has big jumps and is rather demanding on any car.

me also....
But here Is what I"m seeing needs changing from the big fast tracks. Freaking alum a arms bending......I"m going back to CF. And now I see my a arms are tweaking. I'm assuming from my first month on this car from some high speed hard wrecks.... thats all calmed down now and I don't crash hard anymore so hopefully no more a arm changes for awhile. The good news is Serpent A arms don't break, they bend a little, ....keeping you in the race

>>>>>>>>>or I can notice that the car either wants to push or over steer slightly more on areas of the track that the car didnt before with fresh diffs.

I think this has more to do with set up/ tires and the temps, and track changing then diff fluids. IMP.

Currently, I'm rebuilding the whole car this week to do diffs, shocks, clean the Tekin motor, adjust the overall setup of the car, and maybe cleanup some wiring... all in time for the next round of the Norcal series...

I'm also thinking about getting this charger:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-6S-6A-80W-x-4

and this power supply:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Supply-12V-25A

I have the AC/DC version of this charger. Really nice. not sure I would want to carry around an extra power supply so I went for the AC version.

The only thing I don't like is it only balances my batteries to 97% yet my Onyx balances to 99%. Still I use it mostly because its one charger to carry that charges a lot more batteries at once. BTW, it does not come with 4 XH balancer adaptors, you need to by 3 separate for about $10e each.

_[/QUOTE]

You really have no choice but to go with B so you can remove the center diff without taking out the radio tray.

^ interesting ... I only have 2 1/8 scale buggies, my Serpent, and my TTR-S3 nitro, which is absolutely stupid easy to work on. And I have 3 engines, with their own clutch setups and exhausts.

I AM very motivated to get better and be more competitive at the track, so I gotta put the wrench time in, to make sure my buggies are as good as I can get them, AND know my car really well. I know my S3 top to bottom, inside and out, and it just gets better and better.. I just wish I could put big bore shocks on the front somehow... hmmm

For my S3, I can change the front AND rear diffs (6 screws to get out, without removing the cases), give it a quick clean, change the fluid, and re-install them in about 45 mins. The center diff is even easier, 4 screws on the top, center diff is split, so dont have to remove the bottom, and same thing, about 30 mins.

Now.. the Serpent is a bit more... the front must remove the entire diff case. And, I have not figured out how to remove the center diff without taking out the radio box.. which I don't mind really, because I want to clean all that up really good.

One thing I have noticed somewhat consistently, is that cars that are clean and well maintained, usually have less issues at the track, especially with electronics.

Which is why the pros stay up ALL NIGHT rebuilding their cars again, before the Main.

_

Gonna buy a serpent. So I'm curious what parts have you all broke?

I broke my M2C shock tower brace after hitting a concrete wall twice

the graphite tower itself is fine. haven't broken anything else.

for extra tuning options:

- extra sway bars
- extra springs
- webbed bladders for the shocks

- hard spring for servo saver
- hot bodies servo arm

- maybe hard anodized shock caps, Im still running the stockers, they all get scratched anyway.

- maybe aluminum wing mount buttons, or aluminum wheel nutz, or aluminum shock spring cups if u like the bling thing

- get the graphite battery braces from RCMayor, dont use the stock fold down/up lids.

- use the white lube included in the kit + brand new 2.5 mm tooltip, when installing screws into the plastic - makes it much easier. the plastic is best in business soooo, u'll need to eat your spinach to get those Popeye for-arms

- enjoy it!

_

option B also, I remove the front end without removing the radio tray.

Nog.

Does the kit come with body and tires?

body yes, but no tires

Don't forget to get yourself the Option #2 Ackerman bar, also!

Made a HUGE difference!!

I was thinking about getting the option 1 steering bar , would that mean that I may have to "dial back in" some steering?