Serpent 811E Buggy Thread
#2566
another WRONG e-buggy :
http://www.hobbytech-rc.com/car.php?id=570
*tisk, *tisk, *tisk. parts quality doesnt look tooo bad, at least it has aluminum hubs.. but same lame layout and balance and other e-buggys.
I rebuild my diffs every 2 race days, and thats kinda pushin it, because the oil is always reduced to black grime.
A day of racing, including practice in the morning, qualifiers, mid round testing, and then the main, is allot of track time and stress on the car, especially the diffs.
Although, I run on a large outdoor track, which is fast and has big jumps and is rather demanding on any car.
By the main of the 2nd day of racing, I can see a noticeable difference in the car's performance and handling just from the oil in the diffs degrading.
This means that I have to adjust my throttle finger to give "a little more juice" on areas of the track where I wouldn't have too if I had fresh diffs...
or I can notice that the car either wants to push or over steer slightly more on areas of the track that the car didnt before with fresh diffs.
Currently, I'm rebuilding the whole car this week to do diffs, shocks, clean the Tekin motor, adjust the overall setup of the car, and maybe cleanup some wiring... all in time for the next round of the Norcal series...
I'm also thinking about getting this charger:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-6S-6A-80W-x-4
and this power supply:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Supply-12V-25A
I'm running 2s packs, and I charge them at about 4 amps. I dont like charging more than 5 amps... packs get too hot for my liking.
_
http://www.hobbytech-rc.com/car.php?id=570
*tisk, *tisk, *tisk. parts quality doesnt look tooo bad, at least it has aluminum hubs.. but same lame layout and balance and other e-buggys.
I rebuild my diffs every 2 race days, and thats kinda pushin it, because the oil is always reduced to black grime.
A day of racing, including practice in the morning, qualifiers, mid round testing, and then the main, is allot of track time and stress on the car, especially the diffs.
Although, I run on a large outdoor track, which is fast and has big jumps and is rather demanding on any car.
By the main of the 2nd day of racing, I can see a noticeable difference in the car's performance and handling just from the oil in the diffs degrading.
This means that I have to adjust my throttle finger to give "a little more juice" on areas of the track where I wouldn't have too if I had fresh diffs...
or I can notice that the car either wants to push or over steer slightly more on areas of the track that the car didnt before with fresh diffs.
Currently, I'm rebuilding the whole car this week to do diffs, shocks, clean the Tekin motor, adjust the overall setup of the car, and maybe cleanup some wiring... all in time for the next round of the Norcal series...
I'm also thinking about getting this charger:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-6S-6A-80W-x-4
and this power supply:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Supply-12V-25A
I'm running 2s packs, and I charge them at about 4 amps. I dont like charging more than 5 amps... packs get too hot for my liking.
_
Last edited by mrnizzles; 07-10-2012 at 12:23 PM.
#2567
To be honest, for a single pack car, thats the best layout i have seen out of all of them. I like the super low CG of the Cobra though with the 2 packs as the balance is perfect front to rear and left to right.
#2568
compared to others, you are right, although, Im still soooper paranoid about putting an esc up high in a car.
This car looks like there is "some" space between the body and the esc, but still, any impact on top of the car will crush the esc.
Over the weekend, I managed to hit a concrete wall (twice) coming off the big air jump on the backside of the track. I broke/bent my M2C front shock tower brace, but not the graphite shock tower - so the brace did its job.
But I see esc's go up in smoke every time I'm at the track... last thing I need to worry about is landing upside down after Mount Jelich, and my esc is smashed to bits... no thnx.
Instead, I would much rather see the radio box and esc location change positions on that car... much like how Serpent did it; esc down low, rx up high.
The Serpent car really only needs the graphite battery hold downs (which we have from RCMayor now) instead of the flip tops and its a perfect 10.
_
This car looks like there is "some" space between the body and the esc, but still, any impact on top of the car will crush the esc.
Over the weekend, I managed to hit a concrete wall (twice) coming off the big air jump on the backside of the track. I broke/bent my M2C front shock tower brace, but not the graphite shock tower - so the brace did its job.
But I see esc's go up in smoke every time I'm at the track... last thing I need to worry about is landing upside down after Mount Jelich, and my esc is smashed to bits... no thnx.
Instead, I would much rather see the radio box and esc location change positions on that car... much like how Serpent did it; esc down low, rx up high.
The Serpent car really only needs the graphite battery hold downs (which we have from RCMayor now) instead of the flip tops and its a perfect 10.
_
Last edited by mrnizzles; 07-10-2012 at 03:35 PM.
#2569
I see your point. These cars do take a beating and the speedo isnt exactly a cheap repair. I cant wait to run my car this weekend. I made a set of pistons for the shocks that are 6 hole 1.3mm. The difference is that the top is domed,edges are radiused,and i cut little ports to guide oil into the holes and eliminate as much blow by on the pistons as possible for a more consistent dampening. I cant wait to try them out. They feel great.
#2571
exactly, and yet the radio box, which is enclosed and looks pretty rugged, is down on the chassis.
I bet the manf. is thinking, "oh, it will get more airflow and not overheat"... well, thats a good design, however, damage is the tradeoff. Again, Serpent got it right, putting the esc up front and down low, its protected from top damage and gets airflow if you have some cut outs in the body.
I bet the manf. is thinking, "oh, it will get more airflow and not overheat"... well, thats a good design, however, damage is the tradeoff. Again, Serpent got it right, putting the esc up front and down low, its protected from top damage and gets airflow if you have some cut outs in the body.
#2573
My RX8 is at 3-4 LED's after a 10min main.. And I don't have any holes cut out in my body for cooling/venting.I'm running a Tekin 1900 and a pair of Turnigy 5300mah 50-100c hardcase LiPo's. Oh and the motor comes off the track at about 155-165 F after 10min mains, geared on a 16-17t pinion.
No heat issues for me, and I'm in GA... It's been 90-100 for the last 2weeks. LOL
#2574
I just thought it would get hot. My speedo hasnt been any warmer than 75 degrees sitting in my car in my living room. Shes a shelf queen until this weekend.
I will let you know how she goes. It is going to be my first outing with the car. I have driven the car but it was my buddies car.
I will let you know how she goes. It is going to be my first outing with the car. I have driven the car but it was my buddies car.
#2575
Tech Master
iTrader: (54)
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,592
Y'all keep talking about how hot your ESC's are getting...
My RX8 is at 3-4 LED's after a 10min main.. And I don't have any holes cut out in my body for cooling/venting.
I'm running a Tekin 1900 and a pair of Turnigy 5300mah 50-100c hardcase LiPo's. Oh and the motor comes off the track at about 155-165 F after 10min mains, geared on a 16-17t pinion.
No heat issues for me, and I'm in GA... It's been 90-100 for the last 2weeks. LOL
My RX8 is at 3-4 LED's after a 10min main.. And I don't have any holes cut out in my body for cooling/venting.I'm running a Tekin 1900 and a pair of Turnigy 5300mah 50-100c hardcase LiPo's. Oh and the motor comes off the track at about 155-165 F after 10min mains, geared on a 16-17t pinion.
No heat issues for me, and I'm in GA... It's been 90-100 for the last 2weeks. LOL
#2576
Here's teknos response to our serpent scale balance numbers he did state the serpent ebuggy is the best dual pack buggy out
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...l#post10959616
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...l#post10959616
#2577

man i didn't think this thing could look any sexier and i saved 16g from the stock straps
but i put some back with the alm braces
thanks rcmayor this is gary
Last edited by bronc4now; 07-10-2012 at 08:48 PM.
#2578
Here's teknos response to our serpent scale balance numbers he did state the serpent ebuggy is the best dual pack buggy out
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...l#post10959616
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...l#post10959616
#2579



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