SC10 4x4 Thread
I've used steel wool or scotch brite for the past 13 or more years.
Tired of repeating myself, I'm going to bed
Had a brand rear diff blow out yesterday on a ride I just built ..
also waiting for more of the new thicker shims from Ae..
So to repair ?
I ditched the little shim used on the out drive shaft & installed two of the normal shims under the sun gear instead ....
diff feels good , its smooth ...
Tomorrow it gets a test spin ....

also waiting for more of the new thicker shims from Ae..
So to repair ?
I ditched the little shim used on the out drive shaft & installed two of the normal shims under the sun gear instead ....
diff feels good , its smooth ...
Tomorrow it gets a test spin ....
Had a brand rear diff blow out yesterday on a ride I just built ..
also waiting for more of the new thicker shims from Ae..
So to repair ?
I ditched the little shim used on the out drive shaft & installed two of the normal shims under the sun gear instead ....
diff feels good , its smooth ...
Tomorrow it gets a test spin ....

also waiting for more of the new thicker shims from Ae..
So to repair ?
I ditched the little shim used on the out drive shaft & installed two of the normal shims under the sun gear instead ....
diff feels good , its smooth ...
Tomorrow it gets a test spin ....
This diff stripped out on the first pack on a brand new Team ...

My personal truck has bent and worn coned shims and still won't skip ...
Scott did like how I went about with the repair though , so tomorrow we will C .
Tech Regular
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 292
From: Hawkes Bay. New Zealand
Maybe a bad patch, been running mine about six months, it's getting the odd split here and there but no paint issues, still looks mint.
I used to do 000 steel wool, but I switched to scotch brite pads. That's why I can paint with plain ole Rustoleum and it not flake. I usually spray the body with Windex or Fantastic first, then hit it with the scotch brite.
The first coat is most important, it gives the additional coats something to bind too. Flourescent yellow seems like the worst offender. I can't comment on the whole Proline thing, the only one I have is the kit body for my RB4.1.
The first coat is most important, it gives the additional coats something to bind too. Flourescent yellow seems like the worst offender. I can't comment on the whole Proline thing, the only one I have is the kit body for my RB4.1.
I used to do 000 steel wool, but I switched to scotch brite pads. That's why I can paint with plain ole Rustoleum and it not flake. I usually spray the body with Windex or Fantastic first, then hit it with the scotch brite.
The first coat is most important, it gives the additional coats something to bind too. Flourescent yellow seems like the worst offender. I can't comment on the whole Proline thing, the only one I have is the kit body for my RB4.1.
The first coat is most important, it gives the additional coats something to bind too. Flourescent yellow seems like the worst offender. I can't comment on the whole Proline thing, the only one I have is the kit body for my RB4.1.
That's life, no complaints, just a bummer.
I run on an small indoor clay track and I'm currently geared at 11/60.......



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