Thanks cherry

Anyone using the stock 4x4 body on an outdoor track? What all did you cut out for venting?

I'm using the stock one,,, As I have been waiting since April 4th for a painted one I ordered

Anyway, I cut a row of holes with a dremel across the bottom of the windshield, removed the recessed area on the of the hood, and removed 2 of the areas on the back behind the roof.

I am putting external limiters on my shocks. I noticed there is ~3mm piece of rubber below my boots (factory assembled). should I add 8 mm more to the rubber piece and boots? And can I use the internal shock limiters on the outside? They look like C clips kinda

You need 8mm total. So I added 6mm of tubing under the rubber bumper.

what thickness total of limiters do i need to add to my shocks so the drive shafts dont bang on the differential outdrives?

Ok, I found a post on here and I think i better understand the issue. Under full compression the CVD shaft makes contact on outside lip of the cup and thus pushes it cup upwards and causing all kinds of bad stuff. I check my rears and the shafts were black as new with no rubbing, I out a 2mm shim in for insurance tho. I am running middle top and outside bottom. I assume inside bottom would be even more of an issue.

When I checked the fronts, I did see a slight wear on the cvd where the shaft would make contact. The cvd is not yet bent, but I did add 4mm under the rubber bumper. Then I checked the clearance and the cvd seems plenty far from the shaft, maybe too far, but again insurance. Again middle top and outside bottom. I assume again more of an issue if I move the bottom to the inside.

Hopefully I have gained a better idea of the issue and what I did was clear to anyone new like me. Also, I am using the rubber shock boots. I think the main thing is to limit until you no longer touch at full compression and maybe a 1 mm more.

I used the limiter clips that come with the kits shock bag. They are little grey "C" shaped clips with numbers on them. I mounted my limiters UNDER the rubber bumper and above the spring cup. You dont even have to take your shocks off to add or remove them with the boots on.

Tried 1, 2, and 3 spacers. No luck. I can clearly see that there is room between the thrust washer and the housing. I put a quick video together to illustrate what I'm experiencing. This is with the spring barely tightened, and the belt isn't connected to the front. Back barely spins, front spins freely.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BmfyJxcYv2E&feature=plcp

If I back off the spring, the rear spins like the front does. I have 5k diff fluid in the back and front.

Same thing happens when I switch back to the Slipper assembly, so it's not a RCShox V2 issue.

from and rear right?

I did front and rear. I went 1mm less in front.

Thanks to my (less than) fantastic driving skill it is about time to replace my original body. I want to get a either a flotek or a hiflow. Anyone have any preferences? Or even better, anyone have any problems with one of these two types? I have been pretty rough on my first body, so looks like durability is key for me. Whch one holds up the best?

Hiflow, I've seen too many flotek's at the track that 50%+ of the paint peeled off including a friends that I helped him paint. Scuffed, prepped and took our time between coats. In 10+ years I've never had a paint job do that, ever.

I'm on my second one and this time I drilled holes in the top vents at the back of the roof instead of taking all the material out. That was a weak point and the center cracked a few times (shoegoo'd back together a few times).

my paint on my flowtek is still on.. i did how ever paint the roll cage area flat black on the outside and that is flaking off. not scratched off but flaking. inside is fine.

Maybe a bad batch of plastic? I've ran countless proline bodies over the years without issue. For whatever reason though, I have seen a number of flotek's that had the paint coming off disease at the track.