SC10 4x4 Thread
Driving tomorrow with a friend that has a scte so I will check his against a set of stock wheels that I have if no one else confirms.
Here is the info I used about the scte wheels.
I just went and hit my AE & DE wheels with my digital caliper and the DE
SCTE wheel is 1/2 mm narrower off set then the AE wheel so that makes
the SC10 4x4 a total of 1 mm narrower with the DE SCTE wheel.
Heres the funny thing I noticed while I was checking them out: The AE
wheel is 1 mm wider where the tire mounts then the DE wheel. The AE
wheel has the outside bead of tire 1 mm out farther then the DE wheel
does. So if you look at it with this in mind the truck will be 6mm over all
narrower with the DE wheel the the AE wheel.
So then I put both the AE & the DE wheels on the SC10 4x4 and the over
all mesurement was 3 mm wider with the AE wheel then the DE wheel. So
even though the inside offset is only 1/2 mm between the two wheels if
you mesure them on the truck the extra width of the AE wheel ends up
giving you a 3 mm wider truck the the SCTE DE wheel does. I'm not sure
this will make a whole lot of difference in the way the truck handles, but
I could wrong"
Sorry, no pictures as I have no idea how to post pictures.
SCTE wheel is 1/2 mm narrower off set then the AE wheel so that makes
the SC10 4x4 a total of 1 mm narrower with the DE SCTE wheel.
Heres the funny thing I noticed while I was checking them out: The AE
wheel is 1 mm wider where the tire mounts then the DE wheel. The AE
wheel has the outside bead of tire 1 mm out farther then the DE wheel
does. So if you look at it with this in mind the truck will be 6mm over all
narrower with the DE wheel the the AE wheel.
So then I put both the AE & the DE wheels on the SC10 4x4 and the over
all mesurement was 3 mm wider with the AE wheel then the DE wheel. So
even though the inside offset is only 1/2 mm between the two wheels if
you mesure them on the truck the extra width of the AE wheel ends up
giving you a 3 mm wider truck the the SCTE DE wheel does. I'm not sure
this will make a whole lot of difference in the way the truck handles, but
I could wrong"
Sorry, no pictures as I have no idea how to post pictures.
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Posts: 671
From: Evansville, IN
You can also relieve the bearing pockets in the trans case where diff bearings fit. I have found on three separate kits these pockets are not milled(molded) deep enough which side loads diff bearings. Remove topshaft and idler and assemble with just diff and you will see what I am talking about.
I had this problem during initial assembly (with rear gearbox only). I ended up spending $25 to buy a new rear transmission case and diff case (and two new diff bearings). It went together great after that, turned freely after complete install. I suspect the problem was the transmission case, but I do not know for sure.
I had the same issue. I believe the issue was over tightening the screw when you mount it. And the pressure on the case caused binding. At least that was my build.
We were building a friend of mines FT truck about a month ago and the belt tensioners would not fit. After closer inspection the little notches on the edge were not cut deep enough, had to do a little dremel work to get it to fit correctly.
Thought I would mention it in case anyone runs into this problem, there are probably more bad parts floating around in boxes somewhere.
@dominick i.
Is this with the belt on or off? When the belt it new it is rather tight but it will stretch after a pack or two. If the belt is off then do what the others suggested and find what is binding, make sure the idler gear is in the correct direction as well as the big diff gear, I think it makes a difference.
Thought I would mention it in case anyone runs into this problem, there are probably more bad parts floating around in boxes somewhere.
@dominick i.
Is this with the belt on or off? When the belt it new it is rather tight but it will stretch after a pack or two. If the belt is off then do what the others suggested and find what is binding, make sure the idler gear is in the correct direction as well as the big diff gear, I think it makes a difference.
I had this problem during initial assembly (with rear gearbox only). I ended up spending $25 to buy a new rear transmission case and diff case (and two new diff bearings). It went together great after that, turned freely after complete install. I suspect the problem was the transmission case, but I do not know for sure.
I replaced with the same part hanging on wall.
Replacement were
much better , nice finish and fit .
The Pinion is the biggest that will fit without some annoying modification. It slides in to almost a perfect mesh. It's 'THAT' close. Turned up my radio to 125% and was pacing 1/8 guys and MMM Slashes on a large track (non 1/8scale)
Lemme know if you need any help with anything. I used it for 6 months, but moved to the Pro4 only because I was racing indoors. (it's going back in it this summer)
Yeah, I did. There are RC10GT spurs that will work in the 54,52,50 range (don't quote me) but I kept the 58 because they were easier to get ahold of.
The Pinion is the biggest that will fit without some annoying modification. It slides in to almost a perfect mesh. It's 'THAT' close. Turned up my radio to 125% and was pacing 1/8 guys and MMM Slashes on a large track (non 1/8scale)
Lemme know if you need any help with anything. I used it for 6 months, but moved to the Pro4 only because I was racing indoors. (it's going back in it this summer)
The Pinion is the biggest that will fit without some annoying modification. It slides in to almost a perfect mesh. It's 'THAT' close. Turned up my radio to 125% and was pacing 1/8 guys and MMM Slashes on a large track (non 1/8scale)
Lemme know if you need any help with anything. I used it for 6 months, but moved to the Pro4 only because I was racing indoors. (it's going back in it this summer)



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