Ok, moving to the forward hole on the ackerman didn't do alot to help my low speed steering. My truck has a push on power and I can't seem to get it where it needs to be. Any tips?

I'm running into the same thing. Truck has push on "low" power.

Enough with the random electronics posts.

I worked on my FT kit for a few hours tonight and have several issues but I guess I'll just go buy the parts. One of the diff housings had the insert where the O-ring fits into all jacked up and the O-ring won't fit. Crap. Then I found an axle that wasn't drilled all the way through and the dogbone doesn't fit inside. Yeah. Then had a missing hub spacer. That's about as much as I could do this evening....

One more thing about the hub mod. Why are people using the yellow 3/16 hardware and 4-40 screws when metric nuts fit in the groove of the hub correctly? Please don't say for bling.

How about enough of the hub mod? :roll eyes:

See I can do it to.....

SOFried, what kind of track and what is your set up?

I noticed a bit of general push with it, but the stability was so nice, I didn't care...

i found metric electric blue bling for mine.

you should see it. in fact, if someone can spell out how they get their trucks so damn clean using those chems i might be able to see it too.

If you don't have all the necessary metric nuts ?
Metric nuts & screws only come like a dozen to a bag .
So they will cost a bit more to buy .


Using the standard thread screws costs just a little less .
Also will not have to drill the Carbon C brace to fit the part on the hub .



jeremy

That blue is Binding me !


FRIED

You did gain a little experience in how the racks

forward position performs ...Plus 1


Try moving the ft shocks all the way inside on the tower for extra steering.

My track is outdoor, sort of medium traction, pretty technical.

I did gain knowledge, I have been learning all along with this truck, which is good and bad! lol!!

Cherry, I tried the inside position on the arms and didn't like it quite as much, will try the inside of the towers next time out.

I run that servo in mine with an RX8, and FlySky GT3b radio system. No brown-out issues with that combo. I did have a MMP in there before, needed a capacitor, and even then I would brown out from time to time. If you go with the MMP, get an External BEC. Caps didn't completely solve my issue.

Is measuring the midpoint of the wheel base and balancing the truck on that point while adding weight until it stays balanced an acceptable solution for getting a 50/50 weight distribution? Is so my truck is almost perfect with no rear bumper, saddles, 540 motor, and 3oz in front of the saddles behind the servo.

Try raising the inner camber ballstud on the front end, its a touchy tweak but I like it better that way.

My truck is planted with yellow fronts blue rears 3-4mm under front ballstuds and that is basically the whole setup. That setup worked very will with both the slipper and the center diff.

Also what are you running in the front diff? May be time to go to something thinner in there, I liked 10k with the slipper and 5k with the center diff.

anyone have any cogging issues when using an LRP 550 5.5 with a novack havoc pro sc esc?

I'm using 5k in both diffs, yellow fronts/red rear springs, Rc-Shox 2 stg. pistons with 350 front and rear, v2 center diff, thinnest front bar, 2nd thinnest rear bar, 4mm under front ball, 7mm rear ball.

Also have the Exotek chassis. It's a FT, FT saddle arrangement.

lol that's almost my exactly my setup.

Works pretty good! lol!!!

Except for the push. Have you noticed that Evil?