Then you have one of those little brick chargers. I have a Hitec X2. Chipboards and wires.

Don't knock my little charge I paid a whole $23 for it
It does have an external balance board but it's small.

OK. So I measured my SC10 2wd and 4x4 to see if the bumpers match and they don't.

It may not help you much in Brazil cuz of the shipping cost, but the T-Bone bumpers that I mentioned earlier have a lifetime warranty. So far I have not had to use the warranty thankfully.

Seriously? You should know that people only see a very small part of the track when racing.. going by color isn't going to work. I've nailed standing trucks before cause the guy said nothing, or said something like "Watch out".
Unless you include WHERE it's stuck, there's hardly any way to slow down in time unless everyone goes slow everywhere for the sake of your truck.
A simple "after the triple" or "end of the straight" will usually do.

Lol looks like the 1/1 trophy trucks have the same problems. I saw a pic with a orange trophy truck where they had cut the rear body like we do when it has cracks. (i'll post a pic later, cause i've to go to school in 5min)

Maybe someone knows a way of using the old bumper without cutting the body? Cause i like the scale-look very much.

But, are you sure the bumper itself destroys the body? I think the other trucks do, when they crash into the rear-side, but i don't really know. Just assuming that.

@arakon: nice to meet you here. You're right, you cannot know whats on the track 3 meters before you unless someone says "triple" and so on. In germany we call that "tunnelblick". I think in english it's tunnel vision.

Forgot I made this. I'm not running stick pack anymore, but I'll post anyway.

It was a little mod to help get tight fitting packs out, as well as a leash to not misplace the battery strap. I've run many races with the battery strap sitting on the pit bench hahaha.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...y/2c47935d.mp4

yea i've been running 32p since the beginning and all of a sudden its making a sqeaky (windy) noise.. its the loudest car on the track...

Huh. I never had a pack come close to being "snug" in there. that's a little surprising.

Very nice resolution though.

It's the bumper. Every time you land on your roof, the body is smashed onto the bumper. Mine cracked exactly where the bumper is, and even with tons of shoe goo and tape, it continues to crack all over the rear, despite hardly ever getting rear-ended (I usually drive behind everyone else). I'd love to keep the mudflaps for the looks, but I think with the next body, I will be cutting off the bumper or getting the t-bone bumper.

@CoyoteSlash: I actually forgot to put in the battery hold down bar last weekend, and despite plenty of crashes and rollovers, the battery remained in place.. luckily.

I always balance charge, no exceptions. It's good for the batteries and will prevent cell damage if they happen to drift too far apart.
A small drift can quickly become a big one if you run a pack 5 or 6 times without balancing.

About how much torque should be in the steering servo for the SC10 4x? I was looking at a few different servos, saying that the green Radiopost is going to be out of stock for a while, so I wasn't sure if the blue would suffice (165 oz at 7.4v). I plan on running the blue in the 2wd SC10, just wanna see if it is enough in the 4x

I ran the blue for one pack in mine. It did work but was insane! Make sure you can control the speed.

I'm looking to get this and noticed in the description it mentions an Aluminum Rear Hub. I'm not running an aluminum one, I'm running the original plastic one. Can I still use this with the plastic rear hubs?



http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-C-Tower-Set-2

No condescension taken. Yes, you should find the bad cell right away.

The problem is that most people if they use the once in awhile balancing method, especially when their use puts more strain on the battery than other vehicles do, the only time they actually check the voltages is usually when they hook it up to the balancer and see it there.

Without this hookup to the balancer portion of the charger assuming you don't use some other method to check (and honestly, how many guys who already have a charger with balancing features has another tool to check the balance of the cells?) will just straight charge the pack. So you never really tell till you decide to balance. By then, it could be too far gone and you could have a really bad problem on your hands.

Another nice feature that a variety of chargers have when using their balancing features is notification that a cell is too low / too high. Now not every charger does this, but, its better than nothing.

The actual act of balancing the pack can also tell you if there is an issue due to how much actual balancing is needed between the individual cells. That can let you know there is a problem with their load handling capabilities, etc. right away.

Ultimately, the whole point I am making is that by going through the balancing process you have better knowledge of what your cells are doing and how they are holding up than just straight charging them without regard to there current state. You also know each charge how they are doing, as who is to say that the pack will not fail before you do your once-in-awhile balance / check?

And as I said, in general, 99% of the time nothing bad will happen (airplane guys who balance once in a lifetime, etc. *sarcasm of course lol*), but to me at least, knowing that if I became that 1%-er and all I had to have done to avoid it was just hook up a balance wire and look at the voltages or listen for the charger to tell me something was amiss when connected in a balancing setup, it would piss me off to no end, and in worse case scenario, anyone else's equipment that was affected when a worse case scenario failure occurred.

But again, everyone has to do what they want to do with there stuff, and accept the consequences of their actions.

yes