5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
05-20-2012 | 09:29 AM
OK, guys got to race yesterday, very frustrating day for me. I need some setup help. I was on our outdoor 1/8 scale track (200 x 125). VERY dry, something about the well drying up so no water. It's a Clay/Dirt mixture. The groove was ok, but if you got out of it, you were in the pebbles. My main problem was with my back end kicking out on me. I also had issues getting through the quad. No way I could make it, especially since it's going up hill! I had to double/double it.
I tried to post my setup sheet, but it's too big to attach so here's what I got:
Original Kit truck
RX8/Novak Ballistic 4.5T (Not HT version) Geared 12/60
RCShox V2 Center Diff (5 pins) and Ackerman bar (set to 2nd hole from front)
2.2 Front Sway and 2.0 Rear Sway bars
Camber: Front -0.5
Rear +0.5
Toe: 4*. (My rear toe is 8*, is that normal?)
Ride Height: 21.5 all around
Ballstud Placement: Front, outside with 2MM spacers
Rear, inside with 2 MM spacers
Rear Toe Block: 3-2
20T pulley front and rear
Tensioners set to Hole 4 front and rear
Shock Towers: Hole 2 front and rear
A-Arms locations: Outside front and rear
No Washers or Bumpsteer Washers on the arms
Rear Hub Location (stock hub): A, or inside hole
Shocks: Running Bladder, original kit shocks
Front - Blues with 1 limiter, 25Wt
Rear - Front Whites with 3 limiters, 30 wt
Using original stick pack setup (right hand side)
Diff Fluids: Front 7, Rear 5
Tires: Proline Hole Shots front and Rear, M3 compound, JConcepts Hazards
Wheels
Upon inspection today, I found that both my diff's are wobbly as hell. I got 1 diff rebuild kit, waiting on another. Question here is should I plan on shimming using the 0.3 MM washers, or try the Bearing Mod on Ultimate RC? I got an extra case and the 5x10x3 bearings. I will also be replacing the big outer diff bearings with Avid Racing ones.
Lay it on me guys, let me know what you think and where I can make improvements. I was dead last in qualifying yesterday, although it was only my second time racing. I probably should have been in the Rookie class, but didn't think I would be that bad! The Losi's were dominating yesterday
I tried to post my setup sheet, but it's too big to attach so here's what I got:
Original Kit truck
RX8/Novak Ballistic 4.5T (Not HT version) Geared 12/60
RCShox V2 Center Diff (5 pins) and Ackerman bar (set to 2nd hole from front)
2.2 Front Sway and 2.0 Rear Sway bars
Camber: Front -0.5
Rear +0.5
Toe: 4*. (My rear toe is 8*, is that normal?)
Ride Height: 21.5 all around
Ballstud Placement: Front, outside with 2MM spacers
Rear, inside with 2 MM spacers
Rear Toe Block: 3-2
20T pulley front and rear
Tensioners set to Hole 4 front and rear
Shock Towers: Hole 2 front and rear
A-Arms locations: Outside front and rear
No Washers or Bumpsteer Washers on the arms
Rear Hub Location (stock hub): A, or inside hole
Shocks: Running Bladder, original kit shocks
Front - Blues with 1 limiter, 25Wt
Rear - Front Whites with 3 limiters, 30 wt
Using original stick pack setup (right hand side)
Diff Fluids: Front 7, Rear 5
Tires: Proline Hole Shots front and Rear, M3 compound, JConcepts Hazards
Wheels
Upon inspection today, I found that both my diff's are wobbly as hell. I got 1 diff rebuild kit, waiting on another. Question here is should I plan on shimming using the 0.3 MM washers, or try the Bearing Mod on Ultimate RC? I got an extra case and the 5x10x3 bearings. I will also be replacing the big outer diff bearings with Avid Racing ones.
Lay it on me guys, let me know what you think and where I can make improvements. I was dead last in qualifying yesterday, although it was only my second time racing. I probably should have been in the Rookie class, but didn't think I would be that bad! The Losi's were dominating yesterday
05-20-2012 | 09:32 AM
OK, guys got to race yesterday, very frustrating day for me. I need some setup help. I was on our outdoor 1/8 scale track (200 x 125). VERY dry, something about the well drying up so no water. It's a Clay/Dirt mixture. The groove was ok, but if you got out of it, you were in the pebbles. My main problem was with my back end kicking out on me. I also had issues getting through the quad. No way I could make it, especially since it's going up hill! I had to double/double it.
I tried to post my setup sheet, but it's too big to attach so here's what I got:
Original Kit truck
RX8/Novak Ballistic 4.5T (Not HT version) Geared 12/60
RCShox V2 Center Diff (5 pins) and Ackerman bar (set to 2nd hole from front)
2.2 Front Sway and 2.0 Rear Sway bars
Camber: Front -0.5
Rear +0.5
Toe: 4*. (My rear toe is 8*, is that normal?)
Ride Height: 21.5 all around
Ballstud Placement: Front, outside with 2MM spacers
Rear, inside with 2 MM spacers
Rear Toe Block: 3-2
20T pulley front and rear
Tensioners set to Hole 4 front and rear
Shock Towers: Hole 2 front and rear
A-Arms locations: Outside front and rear
No Washers or Bumpsteer Washers on the arms
Rear Hub Location (stock hub): A, or inside hole
Shocks: Running Bladder, original kit shocks
Front - Blues with 1 limiter, 25Wt
Rear - Front Whites with 3 limiters, 30 wt
Using original stick pack setup (right hand side)
Diff Fluids: Front 7, Rear 5
Tires: Proline Hole Shots front and Rear, M3 compound, JConcepts Hazards
Wheels
Upon inspection today, I found that both my diff's are wobbly as hell. I got 1 diff rebuild kit, waiting on another. Question here is should I plan on shimming using the 0.3 MM washers, or try the Bearing Mod on Ultimate RC? I got an extra case and the 5x10x3 bearings. I will also be replacing the big outer diff bearings with Avid Racing ones.
Lay it on me guys, let me know what you think and where I can make improvements. I was dead last in qualifying yesterday, although it was only my second time racing. I probably should have been in the Rookie class, but didn't think I would be that bad! The Losi's were dominating yesterday
I tried to post my setup sheet, but it's too big to attach so here's what I got:
Original Kit truck
RX8/Novak Ballistic 4.5T (Not HT version) Geared 12/60
RCShox V2 Center Diff (5 pins) and Ackerman bar (set to 2nd hole from front)
2.2 Front Sway and 2.0 Rear Sway bars
Camber: Front -0.5
Rear +0.5
Toe: 4*. (My rear toe is 8*, is that normal?)
Ride Height: 21.5 all around
Ballstud Placement: Front, outside with 2MM spacers
Rear, inside with 2 MM spacers
Rear Toe Block: 3-2
20T pulley front and rear
Tensioners set to Hole 4 front and rear
Shock Towers: Hole 2 front and rear
A-Arms locations: Outside front and rear
No Washers or Bumpsteer Washers on the arms
Rear Hub Location (stock hub): A, or inside hole
Shocks: Running Bladder, original kit shocks
Front - Blues with 1 limiter, 25Wt
Rear - Front Whites with 3 limiters, 30 wt
Using original stick pack setup (right hand side)
Diff Fluids: Front 7, Rear 5
Tires: Proline Hole Shots front and Rear, M3 compound, JConcepts Hazards
Wheels
Upon inspection today, I found that both my diff's are wobbly as hell. I got 1 diff rebuild kit, waiting on another. Question here is should I plan on shimming using the 0.3 MM washers, or try the Bearing Mod on Ultimate RC? I got an extra case and the 5x10x3 bearings. I will also be replacing the big outer diff bearings with Avid Racing ones.
Lay it on me guys, let me know what you think and where I can make improvements. I was dead last in qualifying yesterday, although it was only my second time racing. I probably should have been in the Rookie class, but didn't think I would be that bad! The Losi's were dominating yesterday
-ae 35wt/losi 32.5wt in the front shocks
-ae 30wt/losi 27.5 wt in the rear shocks
-raise your ride height to 24mm, or even 25mm if the tracks rough
- -1* camber all around
- neutral front toe
im not sure what you mean by 8* rear toe in, but stock should be 3*
i would also run 4 pins in the diff, but this should get you on the right track.
one other thing, i ran front white springs on the back, and i thought it sucked. ass end was way to loose. put rear yellows on and it was a night and day difference.
05-20-2012 | 10:03 AM
OK, guys got to race yesterday, very frustrating day for me. I need some setup help. I was on our outdoor 1/8 scale track (200 x 125). VERY dry, something about the well drying up so no water. It's a Clay/Dirt mixture. The groove was ok, but if you got out of it, you were in the pebbles. My main problem was with my back end kicking out on me. I also had issues getting through the quad. No way I could make it, especially since it's going up hill! I had to double/double it.
I tried to post my setup sheet, but it's too big to attach so here's what I got:
Original Kit truck
RX8/Novak Ballistic 4.5T (Not HT version) Geared 12/60
RCShox V2 Center Diff (5 pins) and Ackerman bar (set to 2nd hole from front)
2.2 Front Sway and 2.0 Rear Sway bars
Camber: Front -0.5
Rear +0.5
Toe: 4*. (My rear toe is 8*, is that normal?)
Ride Height: 21.5 all around
Ballstud Placement: Front, outside with 2MM spacers
Rear, inside with 2 MM spacers
Rear Toe Block: 3-2
20T pulley front and rear
Tensioners set to Hole 4 front and rear
Shock Towers: Hole 2 front and rear
A-Arms locations: Outside front and rear
No Washers or Bumpsteer Washers on the arms
Rear Hub Location (stock hub): A, or inside hole
Shocks: Running Bladder, original kit shocks
Front - Blues with 1 limiter, 25Wt
Rear - Front Whites with 3 limiters, 30 wt
Using original stick pack setup (right hand side)
Diff Fluids: Front 7, Rear 5
Tires: Proline Hole Shots front and Rear, M3 compound, JConcepts Hazards
Wheels
Upon inspection today, I found that both my diff's are wobbly as hell. I got 1 diff rebuild kit, waiting on another. Question here is should I plan on shimming using the 0.3 MM washers, or try the Bearing Mod on Ultimate RC? I got an extra case and the 5x10x3 bearings. I will also be replacing the big outer diff bearings with Avid Racing ones.
Lay it on me guys, let me know what you think and where I can make improvements. I was dead last in qualifying yesterday, although it was only my second time racing. I probably should have been in the Rookie class, but
didn't think I would be that bad! The Losi's were dominating yesterday
I tried to post my setup sheet, but it's too big to attach so here's what I got:
Original Kit truck
RX8/Novak Ballistic 4.5T (Not HT version) Geared 12/60
RCShox V2 Center Diff (5 pins) and Ackerman bar (set to 2nd hole from front)
2.2 Front Sway and 2.0 Rear Sway bars
Camber: Front -0.5
Rear +0.5
Toe: 4*. (My rear toe is 8*, is that normal?)
Ride Height: 21.5 all around
Ballstud Placement: Front, outside with 2MM spacers
Rear, inside with 2 MM spacers
Rear Toe Block: 3-2
20T pulley front and rear
Tensioners set to Hole 4 front and rear
Shock Towers: Hole 2 front and rear
A-Arms locations: Outside front and rear
No Washers or Bumpsteer Washers on the arms
Rear Hub Location (stock hub): A, or inside hole
Shocks: Running Bladder, original kit shocks
Front - Blues with 1 limiter, 25Wt
Rear - Front Whites with 3 limiters, 30 wt
Using original stick pack setup (right hand side)
Diff Fluids: Front 7, Rear 5
Tires: Proline Hole Shots front and Rear, M3 compound, JConcepts Hazards
Wheels
Upon inspection today, I found that both my diff's are wobbly as hell. I got 1 diff rebuild kit, waiting on another. Question here is should I plan on shimming using the 0.3 MM washers, or try the Bearing Mod on Ultimate RC? I got an extra case and the 5x10x3 bearings. I will also be replacing the big outer diff bearings with Avid Racing ones.
Lay it on me guys, let me know what you think and where I can make improvements. I was dead last in qualifying yesterday, although it was only my second time racing. I probably should have been in the Rookie class, but
didn't think I would be that bad! The Losi's were dominating yesterday
..go to emulsion shocks.. get rid of the bladders, raise the rear camber links (inside)..it should give you more rear traction..raise your ride height (on a high traction indoor track I'm at 24mm) I would try 27mm, on my Losi the magic number is 28mm..so 21mm is way to low, to me you were undergeared..I'm at 13/62 on a small indoor track..might want to go up..check motor temps..
05-20-2012 | 10:58 AM
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 50
I just put my kit together about 3-4 weeks ago. Would it have included the .3 diff shims? I have run about 8 packs through it and have no issues with the diff clicking but am rebuilding the diff just to clean it up.
05-20-2012 | 11:03 AM
To add to the above few posts, start off in the beginner class. Even if you have been bashing for a while, the track requires much smoother and precise driving to turn fast laps.
You will bump up in classes as you progress. First few times at a track and you will be dead last unless you are in the beginner class.
Add 3 pillow ball spacers in the rear.
Go to a 13/62 gear.
-1 camber to zero camber, never positive.
Outdoor I run the rear shock in the inside hole on the a arm, handles bumps better.
Taller ride height will help with a bumpy blown out outdoor track and will also raise the CG making the truck roll more giving you more traction.
You will bump up in classes as you progress. First few times at a track and you will be dead last unless you are in the beginner class.
Add 3 pillow ball spacers in the rear.
Go to a 13/62 gear.
-1 camber to zero camber, never positive.
Outdoor I run the rear shock in the inside hole on the a arm, handles bumps better.
Taller ride height will help with a bumpy blown out outdoor track and will also raise the CG making the truck roll more giving you more traction.
05-20-2012 | 11:17 AM
1: The .2 shims don't tighten up the gear mesh enough. Don't know if the new kits come with .3
2: If you dont limit the up travel of the shocks, the a arm and the cvd will push the outdrive cup up and cone the shim making the gear mesh even worse. Then you have clicking.
I ran mine for about 6 races till the rear diff started slipping gears or clicking. Then I had to buy a new diff housing and gear set. Manual says to use limiting clips if you dont run boots, I had boots. You need clips boots or no boots. (by the way, lose the boots)
Address the shock travel problem before you have to spend $30 in parts.
Last edited by fq06; 05-20-2012 at 12:22 PM.
05-20-2012 | 12:52 PM
In order to save the diff housings, everyone should run 8mm of outside travel limiters in this truck front and rear (6mm if you are running boots, they are 2mm tall) before you even turn the transmitter on - racing, bashing, or otherwise.
05-20-2012 | 01:08 PM
Well people at the track I race at either run the SC10 4wd or the Losi.
Only one or two people run the 4wd slash. That will probably change
next season because the Slash 4wd isnt competitive around here anymore.
It's like throwing a 10oz steak to a bunch of hungry wolves.
So im gonna have to change to a better truck because the Slash 4wd just gets dominated now, I have one but I may just turn it into a rockcrawler trail truck.
What can you expect with a traxxas all they are good for is backyard bashing. That's the way that company has always been.
Only one or two people run the 4wd slash. That will probably change
next season because the Slash 4wd isnt competitive around here anymore.
It's like throwing a 10oz steak to a bunch of hungry wolves.
So im gonna have to change to a better truck because the Slash 4wd just gets dominated now, I have one but I may just turn it into a rockcrawler trail truck.
What can you expect with a traxxas all they are good for is backyard bashing. That's the way that company has always been.
05-20-2012 | 01:46 PM
Well on a big outdoor track the Losi is going to dominate..but you can make your SC10 competitive..one..don't waist your money on 2 stage pistons..they don't work..to all you fanboys....go to emulsion shocks.. get rid of the bladders, raise the rear camber links (inside)..it should give you more rear traction..raise your ride height (on a high traction indoor track I'm at 24mm) I would try 27mm, on my Losi the magic number is 28mm..so 21mm is way to low, to me you were undergeared..I'm at 13/62 on a small indoor track..might want to go up..check motor temps..
..go to emulsion shocks.. get rid of the bladders, raise the rear camber links (inside)..it should give you more rear traction..raise your ride height (on a high traction indoor track I'm at 24mm) I would try 27mm, on my Losi the magic number is 28mm..so 21mm is way to low, to me you were undergeared..I'm at 13/62 on a small indoor track..might want to go up..check motor temps..
05-20-2012 | 01:49 PM
Well people at the track I race at either run the SC10 4wd or the Losi.
Only one or two people run the 4wd slash. That will probably change
next season because the Slash 4wd isnt competitive around here anymore.
It's like throwing a 10oz steak to a bunch of hungry wolves.
So im gonna have to change to a better truck because the Slash 4wd just gets dominated now, I have one but I may just turn it into a rockcrawler trail truck.
What can you expect with a traxxas all they are good for is backyard bashing. That's the way that company has always been.
Only one or two people run the 4wd slash. That will probably change
next season because the Slash 4wd isnt competitive around here anymore.
It's like throwing a 10oz steak to a bunch of hungry wolves.
So im gonna have to change to a better truck because the Slash 4wd just gets dominated now, I have one but I may just turn it into a rockcrawler trail truck.
What can you expect with a traxxas all they are good for is backyard bashing. That's the way that company has always been.
05-20-2012 | 01:52 PM
Well people at the track I race at either run the SC10 4wd or the Losi.
Only one or two people run the 4wd slash. That will probably change
next season because the Slash 4wd isnt competitive around here anymore.
It's like throwing a 10oz steak to a bunch of hungry wolves.
So im gonna have to change to a better truck because the Slash 4wd just gets dominated now, I have one but I may just turn it into a rockcrawler trail truck.
What can you expect with a traxxas all they are good for is backyard bashing. That's the way that company has always been.
Only one or two people run the 4wd slash. That will probably change
next season because the Slash 4wd isnt competitive around here anymore.
It's like throwing a 10oz steak to a bunch of hungry wolves.
So im gonna have to change to a better truck because the Slash 4wd just gets dominated now, I have one but I may just turn it into a rockcrawler trail truck.
What can you expect with a traxxas all they are good for is backyard bashing. That's the way that company has always been.
05-20-2012 | 01:55 PM
Tech Addict
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 671
From: Evansville, IN
Different strokes for different folks. Seems like a month ago all the talk was about how this truck was too lite to be competitive. And now there is talk of lightweight setups? Take everything you hear or read and realize they are suggestions or have worked for someone else and not a fixall as we all have our own driving styles and needs from a particular chassis.
05-20-2012 | 02:13 PM
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 51
Has anyone shimmed the diffs an extra .4, double stock shims, for an extended period? I just bought two new diffs and doubled up the shims and they felt pretty good. Takes out any wobble of the outdrives and free movement. Doesn't seem tight at all but I don't wanna destroy the new gears.
05-20-2012 | 02:19 PM
Different strokes for different folks. Seems like a month ago all the talk was about how this truck was too lite to be competitive. And now there is talk of lightweight setups? Take everything you hear or read and realize they are suggestions or have worked for someone else and not a fixall as we all have our own driving styles and needs from a particular chassis.