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Old 09-02-2004 | 10:14 AM
  #166  
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I like setting my own parameters rather than using a preset program. Looking through the settings I always see one goofy thing I don't like in the presets.

This is what I set for Stock and 19T Sedan racing:

Main:

nutr - 4p
d_po - 10p Run it as low as 0p if you don't like the snap 10p gives you coming out of corners.
b_po - 10p
nubr - 0p
f_br - OFF
EnSA - 100p

FRQ:

d_Fr - 1.5 If your motor fades at the end of a run walk the frequency up to as high as 2.5. The better you are are rolling in the throttle gradually the lower you can run the FRQ without fading.

b_Fr - 5.0 This higher FRQ make for smooth brakes and keeps the comm from getting burned if you brake hard.

nbFr - Doesn't matter you don't need neutral brake for stock.

This is what I set for 10T to Open Mod Sedan racing:

Main:

nutr - 4p
d_po - 0p You don't need extra snap coming out of corners...
b_po - 5p
nubr - 0p I start with this and add some if the track requires it
f_br - OFF
EnSA - 0p (Rapida) or 30p (Zero V EX 2002) you have to run 1 or more Schottky diodes to use this setting. I run 5 on Oscar Jansen's (Orion's Motor guru) suggestion. This helps keep you motor alive under hard braking.

FRQ:

d_Fr - 2.5 If your motor fades at the end of a run walk the frequency up to as high as 5.0. The better you are are rolling in the throttle gradually the lower you can run the FRQ without fading. Schumacher's Paul Wynn can 1.5 in Mod with no problems

b_Fr - 5.0 This higher FRQ make for smooth brakes and keeps the comm from getting burned if you brake hard.

nbFr - 5.0 This higher FRQ make for smooth brakes and keeps the comm from getting burned
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Old 09-02-2004 | 12:08 PM
  #167  
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Thanx ALOT man... I'll keep in touch with any more ???'s

- jaybee
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Old 09-02-2004 | 02:30 PM
  #168  
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Adrian,

Thanks for the response. I just might have to get another Schumacher now that the horrible upper control arms from the original Mission are gone on the Mi2.


Cheerz
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Old 09-02-2004 | 02:48 PM
  #169  
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Yup...all gone and replace with a conventional suspension that is working quite well...

We won a ROAR Nats and a NORRCA Nats in the last 2 months! We had 2 cars in the ROAR Mod A Main (6th and 8th) ahead of Kinwald, Francis, Burch, Easton and a few other very good drivers. In the first A-main Cartwright finished 3rd behind Hara and Barry...good stuff!
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Old 09-02-2004 | 04:30 PM
  #170  
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Adrian, why do you run the EnSa that low with mod?? It isn't something that we have ever played with and have hence always run it at 100.
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Old 09-02-2004 | 06:58 PM
  #171  
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MattW - Oscar is REALLY big into Schottky diodes. He says they are critical to helping a motor survive if you are using a lot of brakes. In the US most of our tracks are very tight and if you run mod you have to use brakes. Remember mod in the US means a 10T or Open Mod (7's and 8's). With a 10 turn we are geared in the high 7's to low 8's in final drive and in the low 8's to mid 8's with a 7 to 8 turn.

You probably don't need to do this in the UK. Most of the tracks you run on are places we would only run 1/8th IC cars...lol! Last time I was talking to Teemu he said you guys run your 12T EFRA motors in the high 5's final drive. We don't even run our stock motors that low.

Remember if you run 100% ENSA you cant run a Schottky and if you run less than 100% you must run at least one.
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Old 09-02-2004 | 07:14 PM
  #172  
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Originally posted by AdrianM
Remember if you run 100% ENSA you cant run a Schottky
Why the manual does not say that you cant? please give us more info..
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Old 09-03-2004 | 02:56 AM
  #173  
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The Rapida manual does tell you to run a diode if EnSa is lower than 100.

Adrain, yeah fair point, most of the time we are running on big open tracks with one-ways so basically no breaking at all, and yup that does mean silly gearing Teemu has chosen the 3 biggest and most open tracks we race on as the nats for him to do this year
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Old 09-03-2004 | 04:52 AM
  #174  
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Originally posted by AdrianM
I'm old school...big speed controls are Tekin G-12cIII's & LRP V6's. The Keyence is tiny in comparison and fits in any current car with plenty of room to spare.
The older Tekin and LRP speedos may be "big", but at least they don't burn up like the "latest, greatest" ESCs. We all know that the smaller these things get the more they go up in smoke. When you guys are burning up on the track I'll be screaming past with my "big" G-12cIII (with 12 cells and a 10 turn). Try that with your micro crap!

Last edited by tmeeks; 09-03-2004 at 04:58 AM.
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Old 09-03-2004 | 06:17 AM
  #175  
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Originally posted by MattW
The Rapida manual does tell you to run a diode if EnSa is lower than 100.
Does it means you can not? That`s why I asked the expert
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Old 09-03-2004 | 07:16 AM
  #176  
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From past experience with the older Zero V EX's (Non EnSa) we have found the they do not like Schottky diodes. You will burn up the high speed fets and your car will go slower. I found out the hard way at the 2001 Carper Nats... When I got home I ran a club race and I was a full second a lap slower than when I had raced the week before that Nats. I put a new speedo in and I was back to full speed right away.

On the Zero V EX 2002 and Rapida Pro with EnSa @ 100% it may be ok them but I never tried it just to be safe. Schottky's are required if the EnSa is less than 100%
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Old 09-03-2004 | 07:21 AM
  #177  
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Originally posted by tmeeks
The older Tekin and LRP speedos may be "big", but at least they don't burn up like the "latest, greatest" ESCs. We all know that the smaller these things get the more they go up in smoke. When you guys are burning up on the track I'll be screaming past with my "big" G-12cIII (with 12 cells and a 10 turn). Try that with your micro crap!
Before I had a Keyence I had a Tekin G10 pro. Loved it and never blew up. My V-Extreme is the only thing I would run besides one of the "Old School" speedos. Those new little speed controls develop heat. Heat and electronics do not work well together.
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Old 09-03-2004 | 07:38 AM
  #178  
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I have run my Keyence with 7 and 8 turn mods in a sedan without a heat sink and it doesn't get hot at all compared with the stuff around it. That is not the case will all the micro speedos but you have no worries with a Keyence.

I am a racer and a very direct individual. I want to win when I race. If I thought there were a better speed control on earth it would be in my car and I would not be posting here.

I am a HUGE Tekin fan. I have 2 BC112A's (that I use every weekend) and I used to run G12C3's in all my cars. However, the G10, as far ahead of everyone else it was when it was new, is still 8 year old technology today. Can you win a race with a G10 sure! Just like you can win a race with a Novak Tempest or an LRP V6.

The Keyence is still smaller, lighter, just as tough and has tons more features that racers can actually use and feel on the track.
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Old 09-03-2004 | 08:41 AM
  #179  
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Let's say we are using the default no5 programming and then run the EnSa. How much more runtime it will generate out of let's say 50% ensa activated? I know it would depend on driving style, but try to give me the figure in percentage.. in case someone already have experienve with it. Furthermore, if runtime increase, what will decrease?

BTW, in our recent national race, I did run with heat sink on and 2 Sc Diodes (soldered underneath the esc terminals) with no EnSa activated using no5 default program. No comm trued for the whole 3 final runs using Reedy PT 9D and Reedy Realtime GP3300 and still gives me about 300secs on 20A discharge (Pulsar). The battery is kind of toward high tourqe (1.19+) instead of runtime.
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Old 09-03-2004 | 09:01 AM
  #180  
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The regenerative charging of the EnSa setting is small. I don't know exactly how much contribution it makes. Try the diffrent settings and let us know.
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