Which swaybar are you using? How many shims have you added on the inner ballstuds, and you can try adding the CF tower c-hubs as well which may help.......

C hubs and front springs in rear shock worked well for me. I went for 17 to 18 to solid 16. In ballstuds (1mm). Rear shock inner.

Yeah I plan on adding the C hubs to my FT SC10 as well as front white springs in rear........... Just waiting on the new version exotek chassis to come in then may change some things up once I get it installed.......

Yeah , The C hub mod Ae gave us is pretty good huh ?


I have run into a issue with though ...

Kodys latest set-up calls for a inside camber shim of 7mm

If you try to do , will not be able due the stud is not long enough .




Solution

Ball stud standard kit uses is 10mm

Use instead the 12mm Team Ti Nitride ball stud #91121

I believe there blue and orange everything is set to what AE book said so I believe also 2 shims.

I was looking at the Exotik chassis? I think more weight would also help.
Are the new ones coming out made to use the FT saddle setup?

Sorry for all the questions I use to run a Hyper 10sc and Losi SCTE, and I'm really impressed with this car. I was worried with belt drive I put down one of the quickest laps with it first time running it my only complaint is the back was loose so I was not sure if the Exotik? Chassis with weight would help?

Yes the new version exotek chassis is being made to fit the FT version saddle packs......... The weight may help since it will give the sc10 a LCG...........

Alright thanks I guess I'll wait for them to come out

Should be in stock this Monday , Go to either stormerhobbies or trickparts to get it since its cheaper there then on exoteks website......

Thanks I'll check it out monday and try and get one

Mainly when you jump, air catches under the body due to the wide open nature of it. This slows down the car, lifts up the nose, and can make it unstable. I have no idea how that tape mod is supposed to help, usually people cut holes into the body so the air can escape faster (the flo-tek and hi-flow bodies have areas to cut out specifically for this).

The screw holding the belt tensioner on are stripped and the bearing is shot. Any idea on how to remove them?

Hi all. I've had tons of success with this truck pretty much out of the box. I'm running the FT against plenty of Losi's and durango's and winning. I had the Losi sct before this truck and I must say this truck out performs the Losi. Could be because it fits my driving style better but it's just my opinion. I was wondering for all running the FT. Have you tried the short springs in the rear? Is this mod just to fix the way the car jumps? Reason I ask is because I run on everything from medium blue groove to large blown out tracks to tight indoor. I don't see the flight issue for this truck in any of the tracks I run on. Could it be this was fixed with the FT kit?

Which screw? The one holding the bearing or the one holding the metal part to the truck? The one with the bearing stripped very easily for me, I ended up cutting off the plastic wheel and using a dremel to cut a slit into the screw and using a wide screwdriver to extract it..
If it's the other one, the dremel method may also work, if you can reach the screw. You'll have to let it cool down every few secs though, or the plastic around the screw will melt.

It's the one holding the bearing. I got it off but I had to destroy my alum belt tensioners. The Ez-out did not work.

Yep.. I replaced it with a higher strength hardened steel one. I luckily still had the plastic wheel on there.