What screw? I had my pinion come off in the rear diff even after thread lock as well. I opened it up and used a tiny bit of red. A screw thats hard to get out is going to get me farther than front wheel drive + when this happens it wont really go anywhere.

Dude,
I followed the sheet of paper given in the manual...
and it locks up when i tighten it fully.

Mate, Just got even worse news. It was not the damn screw causing the headache, but my centre diff was totally disfigured. I hv no idea how, i didnt seem to have done anything wrong or missed out anything, but my housing is nearly disfigured on the inside. So gotta go to my LHS to get a new centre diff built up.
But im still confused about the rear diff as its getting stuck when i tighten it fully after following the white sheet of paper given in the manual. did u follow the manual?

There are two different thicknesses of shims in the kit. Make sure you use the correct thickness for the front pinion gear. I made the mistake of using the wrong ones and had to redo the shimming. Also I cleaned ALL the screws that needed lock tight with brake cleaner. I have not had one screw come loose.
Reuben

Yup reuban. I did check the thickness of the shims using a vernier first before following the sheet.

You may also want to check the 3 screws that hold the bearing in the diff housing. I read somewhere that the ring gear could hit the head of the screw cause the diff to bind. Make sure the three screw are flush with the bottom of the screw holes.
Reuben

The manual and separate sheet is a guide or starting point in regards to the shimming, you should shim the diff and pinion so that the mesh is correct, not too tight and not loose.
When building my front gearbox I couldn't use all the shims as it locked up the gears and couldn't even assemble the gearbox cases together, but with 2 shims behind the pinion all was good.

Ya just leave those screws out They are a pain..

I shimmed it with 2 shims in front axle and 2 i rear axle and my car is super smooth now. I think i have 15 charge on it and it is finally begin to loose up.
This car is awesome!

I would like to know more about this, and how the center diff housing was damaged. Was it not installed into the machined aluminum housing correctly, including the top plastic cover?

And can you post a pic as well?

I think he means the diff case. Sounds like something got hot. Maybe all the oil leaked out and he burnt up the diff.

I love instruction manuals...

so Im reading my "My Laps" transponder instruction manual and it specifically states:

"The transponder signal will be weakened considerably when fitted directly onto a carbon fiber or metal chassis. This will cause low hit and strength readings from the decoder."

"Hits should be no less than 10 (at speed) and strength above 100."

Just to put that "transponder under the speed control" issue to bed!

I guess I will check with the timing booth at my local track to confirm what my "hits" and "strength" are if possible.

_

+ 1

There is a reason it is not shown mounted under the speed control in the instructions.....Yes, it was initially designed to go there.

It may work where you have newer/better located loop where you typically race, but when you go to another track you may miss laps. To be safe, do not mount it under the speed control.

Please correct me if I'm wrong guys, as I'm going to do this again.
When use say "2 shims and the front and rear axle", u guys mean the axle that is connected out from the fr and/or rr diff connecting to the centre diff right? Just to be sure, the shimming guide for the front and rear diff itself are correct am I right?
And also, should I take those 3 screws out n make do without them? Is tat a gd idea.
Btw, thx for the prompt response and the advises and help. Truly very grateful. Thx guys.
Cheers

Yes, that is the diff pinion we are talking about. But as stated above, the manual and separate sheet are a guide or starting point for the shimming. This is because when using plastic cases for the gearbox the sizes/tolerances can vary a bit, so you should shim the gears to achieve the correct mesh. So that could that you have a different amount of shims fitted than what is in the manual. The shims are there to give you some adjustment to get the correct mesh.
Ideally you should start withe mesh a little bit tight, but in no way should it be binding or tight to turn over by hand. Another tip is if the gearbox cases are difficult to pull up then something is wrong.

If you want a more detailed explanation then go to the build thread on oOple, you can find it here, http://www.oople.com/forums/showthre...t=86965&page=6