Well.....just put in an order for 2 B811E's and a bunch of (u)necessary option parts @ Amain

Can't wait to get back into 1/8 racing again after a 10 year break.

Hopefully the Serpent should fill the void just fine after getting rid of my B4.1 & B44.1 earlier this year

Bent

Well I have 2 questions first off can someone post a pic of a buggy with the battery straps installed Second what are you guys doing to get more rear traction out of the buggies

Run the rear camber link long and try thicker center and front diff oil. Last weekend i ran 5k front, 7k center and 3k rear. Im going to try 7,10,5 this weekend. Car was a missile. If your track is not blue groove, try adding more uptravel (droop) front and rear. Helps alot.

How much droop? The serpent sheet shows the measurement from the center of the tower screw to what looks like the top of the pin that holds in the shock in the arm. I was under the impression it was measured center to center?

On dusty tracks, I give it all the droop screws will allow before allowing the shocks to overextend. If the track is dusty and loose, You dont want the droop screws to touch the chassis when it rolls. Once they touch, the car will lose traction. For high bite, I reduce the uptravel to help the car rotate and be more free. When its loose, I dont want to limit or break traction anywhere.

You measure droop from the center of the top screw to the bottom of the pin

Funny how the kit box pic, shows threaded shock bodies, etc... Basically the same box pic as the standard eBuggy Comp Kit.... when in truth, none of that comes with the Sport version...

That's so weird they don't show that in the setup sheet. Looks like my car needs more droop!

Ok how about medium traction indoor clay surface smooth to slightly bumpy?

What setup do you run? Droop may not be whats making it loose. Let me know your setup and i will see if i can make some suggestions.

any pics of the car with the battery straps installed

Longere rear camberlinks, softere rear spring, thinner rear diff oil, thinner rear sway bar, more rear droop, more toe in/max toe in (that helps alot)
Thinner center diff oil will make the car easiere to drive in bumpy conditions, but will give less acceleration

Ya, there have been some a few pages back. Check post number 2502 and 2503.

I don't see how you guys can run stiff springs in the back and soft up front. Im running on a large outdoor track and run the softest springs in the back and the hardest in the front. Even with soft springs in the rear I have to be careful not to give it too much throttle coming out of the corner.

I also don't run a rear swaybar, max rear toe, and zero anti squat. Thats the only way I can get the rear end to hook up.

Here is what i am running on my car. Track is dusty and can be loose so my setup wont be the best for higher bite. My car is very easy to drive and not loose at all.

Front:

Blue shock spring w/ 45wt. Losi oil
1 degree of camber
0 toe
middle camber link location on tower inside(longer)
2.5 mm sway bar
max droop (just make sure pistons do not bottom out. adjust droop screw to stop this)
5000 diff oil
2nd hole in from outside shock mount on tower
Inside shock mount hole on arms
28.5mm ride height

Center diff 7k oil

Rear:
box setup for hinge pin inserts(I believe it is 3 deg rear toe and 2 degrees anti squat)
3k diff oil
1 degree camber
35 wt. losi oil
yellow rear springs
camber link in middle hole on hub and inside middle hole on tower
shock mount on tower 3 holes in from outside
wheelbase full long
29mm ride height
Max droop without bottoming out piston
2.5mm sway bar

I am running J concepts Hybrid green compound(soft). I am using 8 hole 1.2mm shock pistons. 6 hole 1.3mm will be fine also.

I have a very linear feel set on the speed control so its not notchy feeling.

The car was very easy to drive, jumped extremely well.