The Dynamite Al servo arm is working fine for me. No problem at all. Same arm I've used for years on Associated and Mugen

After stripping out the stock one (without a backup available) I threw on an aluminum answer horn. It's been fine ever since. The stock horn fits better though.

its pushing on-power. i'm running 5-5-3 and have serpent 300wt shock oil in the front and rear. 2.5m front sway bar

My shocks are at 8 hole 1.3mm pistons, blue front spring 40wt oil. Rear 1.3mm 8 hole pistons, 32.5 oil and yellow springs. Opt 2 steering rack. If that doesnt work use 12 degree front hubs

Is it that the horn needs to be tall, sit off the servo more than others, Like the HPI Ve8 horns or do they need to be pretty flush?

Just raced my eco over the weekend and it outsteers the serpent. Surprisingly by a lot....and I still have another hole I can go in to get more

Gonna have to say I like my eco better. Its so stable and forgiving

Not really, there is just a real narrow pathway for it to move in. The servo arm could be a little shorter and work, but the stock one is max height.

If you use a plastic one, be sure to use a small steel washer bigger than the intention in the plastic. It helps to keep it secure by pressing on the outside of the servo arm.

First day test with the serpent when good the car had lots of corner speed and was very predictable easy to drive hard.. Of course first pack out I did strip servo horn even with the super glue trick.. But I found a racer edge alum. servo horn that worked perfect. also had the motor move on a hard case hit. but thats it. Had a couple of local sponsered guys drive it the consence came back best 1/8th scale yet.. My buddy has the Mugen ECO it's very stable and easy to drive slow but is hard to push and drive fast and has no corner speed compared to the snake.. and as for the Losi 2.0 I just got rid of the snake is better everywhere......

looks like I have a manufacturer defect on a small coupler that fits in one of the rear axles... its a small "bur" inside the small copper colored coupler that fits inside the round end of the drive bone.

the drive pin will not fit through it, it gets stuck on the bur a third way through.

#600197 - not sure the name, wish the manual called out the NAME of the part in addition to the number!!

Can't find any parts through Amain or AbsoluteHobbyz... looks like there arent ANY drive axle parts online, so I dont know where to get one of these or even a cvd rebuild kit or something... looking for nitro 811 parts too.

I will try filing it somehow maybe with a small drill bit, but really I just want a new part.. even with filing I dont think it will fit right.

I tried taking a pic, but its so damn small nothing came in focus.


** Ahh found this -

http://www.walterrchobby.com.au/inde...-insert-2.html
http://www.serpent.com/product/600197/description/

_

File and hammer it in. lol small "burr" is nothing.

Absolute hobbz.com has them instock also

Call the folks at Desoto Racing (305-677-3253) , Ricardo is the guy I've dealt with, and they will send you a new part.

This is what I use http://www.horizonhobby.com/webapp/w...pe=productgrid

Choose your color and spline(servo brand) and install with a button head screw through the ball supplied for the plastic arm with a 3mm flat nut on the back side threadlocked. It will work perfectly with ample clearance.

That certainly wasn't my experience with it. I thought it was terrible on rough sections of an outdoor track. It was more stable than the RC8Be, but not even close to the stability of my Ve8. Still, overall though, I thought it was a good buggy.

absolute has them http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/produc...oducts_id=2012
and a main has them http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...t-Insert-Set-2