That wasn't my experience. I tried to fit a Kyosho 46T spur. The bolt pattern is the same, but it's too thick for the outdrive to come through. When you put the o-ring and shim; there's not enough room for the cross pin that the crown gear sits on. It's about 1mm shy of being enough and if you squeeze it and get the pin in; it is too tight and binds up the outdrive. The problem is there's a shoulder on the Kyosho gear that the 8x16 bearing sits on that spaces the bearing away from the face of the spur.
There is good news however. The Associated plastic spur for the RC8 fits perfectly. I'm nice and quiet now.

so is the associated spur the same number teeth as the serpent?

Ran the Serpent outdoors for the first time today at Browns. Qualified 4th in the A, only 5 seconds behind TQ, so it was a tight field at the top. Unfortunately, the rain moved in before we could start the mains, so I missed my chance to blow the first lap in the main and struggle back from last. Chops advice was pretty close for a starting setup. Car was just a bit pushy coming into tight 180s, but with more time, it'll get dialed in better. Was very happy for the first time outdoors, on a pretty rough track. Car was consistent and predictable everywhere, jumped the huge back jump as well as anyone could ever ask, and felt pretty plush everywhere.

here is a video from the track my 1st time out and i need some time to get used to the big track ,well let me know what you think any advice is welcome . thanks !
the track was really wet / muddy in a few spots it seemed like my rear ride height was low for this track ..some jumps were good some were bad

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ymr8...2&feature=plcp

some good tumbles ,a few problems,the plastic nuts holding the rear tower after a wreak it came loose i felt the rear tower moving i just re tighten the screws and it ran fine .not sure yet if ill go to steel ones yet since my bad driving id like to not break something worse like a diff case or tower . i also put a crack in the front arm but it finished the day .

parting with my 811e..it need a good home

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...kin-savox.html

Just run the metal, lol. The electric buggs have so much power its a waste of time lightening them up. Metal to metal is a little noisier, but has the least amount of friction.

Is at somebody from you have a setup for a indoor carpet (astro)?

Thanks

I'm seeing a lot of setups with aluminum towers what's the deal here is one better then the other ..

Yes, the stock gear on the Snake is 46T.

No difference in geometry. In a hard crash Carbon can break. Aluminum may bend, but you'll finish your race. Mostly it's just an appearance option, though.

Why does EVERY 1/10th scale run a plastic spur? Lighter, less rotating mass, less wear, less friction. Since our gear ratio between pinion and spur is about 3 to 1(46/16), If both are made of the same material the pinion will wear about three times faster than the spur. (For every rotation of the spur gear, the pinion must turn about three times.) I and thousands of other people have run plastic spurs on buggies and truggies from Associated, Losi, Mugen, Kyosho etc. for years without problems. Of course, if the motor moves or the gear mesh is improperly set, your pinion or spur will fail. But you won't do well under these same circumstances with a steel spur either. At least I have a cheaper repair to make with the plastic spur gear. Every other metal to metal gear on the car is submerged in lubricant.

Running a Kyosho plastic (really, composite) spur gear on my 811. But, yeah, it needs minor mods to work. The shoulder where the bearing sits down on the gear needs to be shaved down, and the outdrive tube shortened, to allow the washer and cross pin to fit. But, in 5 years of escale racing, always using Kyosho spur gears, I've never had one strip out. Losi and AE plastic gears suck, because they are truly just plastic, maybe delrin, and not a composite like the Kyosho, and they are much weaker.

That's what I was thinking .but I'm going to be running the carbon for awhile since i already have back ups in carbon ..I'm thinking ill keep the plastic nuts to have a give point when i crash those are cheap and easy to replace ..

This car isn't 1/10 scale... lol 1/10th is half the weight and also has a clutch to lessen the impact on the spur gear/transmission internals. Have fun DNFing with the plastic spur.

Yeah, but this aint 10th scale. There is way way more stress on the drive train. Big difference. Plastic spurs are great as long as your mount is secure and does not move. I had issues with this on my ECO and stripped two plastic spurs. Their mount is notorious for "moving". You'll never get a DNF with a metal spur.