Just talking about how the diff case "hides" the set screw that holds the pinion to the coupler inside the diff case. On a traditional car you can easily check the drive line screws in case they work loose.

So problem is on the V3 coupler to check if they are tight you have to tear down and pull out the drive assemblies. This isn't hard, but in a rushed club race there isn't a lot of time. I was just thinking if there might be a way to drill an access hole in the diff case so you could just pull a plug and check the set screw.

Got to actually drive the car the other day we are finally moving outside here in Wisconsin.

My first impressions after 3 battery's are....
Durability, Drive ability the car just feels super smooth and made to be consistent on the track, jumps very well and is very responsive. Not as responsive as I am used to though with a Mid Motor 22t.

I lacked steering all day long. Probably due to the fact that my car is box stock. Running on a med/large outdoor medium traction surface that gets grooved by the end of the day.

I am going to try the 2.3 bar up front, Blue front, Yellow rear, webbed bladders, 8 hole conicals, hardened servo saver spring. This should help with the lack of steering correct?

I did tighten my servo saver all the way down and it helped a bit. With the manual recommendations its way to lose.

Thatd be awesome. Followed by an Electric Truggy?

Ahh.. ok, well, I guess Im not too worried there yet, I soaked that set screw in Red loctite and used a vise grip to tighten it down!

But I hear what you're saying... on my ttr S3, with the tubular chassis, it was a similar problem, because even tho the set screw for the pinion was on the outside of the diff case, the "tube" part of the chassis that the center drive shafts were in, made it difficult to check them.. but I never had any problems with those coming loose.

When it comes time to change them, I just soak that set screw in PB blaster for a bit and then take my heat gun to it for a few minutes and VOILA!

Not one broken part for me so far, either. The only problems I've had is screws backing out. I've been racing since 1985. That's building kits for 27 years and I have never had to wash my screws before using them! You would think that's worth mentioning in the manual, wouldn't you? They were very explicit about where to use thread lock, but never mentioned that it was a waste of time. I think I've bathed them and reapplied thread lock to everything now and the car is working very well. Extremely durable.

I noticed an excess of oil on the screws and metal parts of my last kit. I didn't worry about washing screws that were going into plastic. But any metal to metal screws and parts got sprayed with a little brakleen before loctiting. I think I forgot to do a couple of set screws like in the roll bar mounts and pinion and sure enough they worked loose in about 30-40 minutes of running.

yah, I noticed the oily residue and cleaned everything before assembly. I mean Everything .. even shims.

Ive learned that from running nitro over the years, if it can break, or get loose, it will... things I woulda never excepted or anticipated ... its Murphy's Law to the Nth degree!!!

well, thank god for forums! lol

Hi Gang

Any info if Serpent will be releasing a Team Edition of the Cobra 811 E? Thinking about getting a 811E, but would hold out for a bit if the Team Edition is in the pipe....

Any comments are greatly appreciated....

Actually if you compare to the Gas buggy, for the most part the S811e is a Team Edition already. I think it is just missing the shock caps, but you aren't missing that much there.

Yeah seems the biggest change was going to 5.5mm Alu shock towers vs the 4.5mm carbon fiber. Have the carbon fiber towers not been durable? I believe a disadvantage of carbon vs alu is that carbon will break, where Alu would bend and could be bent back is not too badly damaged.

Here are the changes with the Team Edition, which not sure that the transmission changes would apply to an E version.....

"Pro type 5.5mm alu shocktowers front and rear - larger bearings in steeringblocks and uprights 8X16X5 (2) and 15x21x4 (2) - new transmission using larger bearings 8x19x6 and 13x19x4 and new couplers for extra durability - improved stiffer chassis - hard coated shockcaps front and rear - lower rear wing"

Ya, the Aluminum towers, I consider that a downgrade. The carbon towers are strong. Just be sure to prep the edges with thin superglue. Sand round the edges also, this keeps the towers from digging in if you flip over. Rounded corners will slide easier instead of catching on ruts.

+1 the aluminum towers are not needed. I ran the mbx6 in the past and it had carbon towers and I never broke one. Look at it this way. If you break the carbon tower than more than likely thats all that will break. If you bend the aluminum one badly, then more than likely you will have to replace the diff case

I did break 1 carbon front tower but it was when I was blowing out and I think I landed upside down from 15ft in the air. lol. Even then the tower didn't fully break. It just cracked down by one of the mounting holes. I filled it with some thin CA and ran it for 2-3 weeks and the top finally broke off.

bullet proof carbon tower = sanding + ca + M2C tower brace + non-noob-driving

The latest E buggy does come with the V2 transmission parts and the V2 hubs with the larger bearings.