Well that's good news figuring I just got done ordering two! I convinced my buddy and he jumped on the bandwagon. Kits should be in next week so ill get to building as soon as they arrive. Im gonna run the Tekin 2050 combo and ill be looking online everyday to see when the 6.6 nanotechs get back in stock.

OK I'm sold. I've been running e-bug since they were new and just sold two rc 8.2s and picked up a serpent. I agree with everyone about the durability and the clean layout. Finally, an electric specific 1:8 buggy. I can't wait!!! It should be here Monday.

I have to say thank you to RCJUNKY10 for his information on setup. I'll be blowin you up when the buggy gets here!!!!

Now...the Waiting...is it Monday yet............................................... .....

I run Turnigy Nano-Tec 5300mah hardcase packs and can run 20min, so I would look at the smaller 5.3 or 6.0 packs and get them if in stick, which they normally are and are cheaper since everyone wants the 6.6 packs.

On cost, look at it this way, you spend it up front on the kit or in back on parts. As long as you don't have to spend it on both sides you are good. From what I have read and expierenced in the short time I have ran Serpent is that quality and durability is Superpub.

hello everyone, yesterday I got a new 811be as well and start building it..the kit is really great as I have seen from the completed version.. however I have an issue with center diff. after I assambled (double checked everything is correct) center diff, when I hold the spur and rotate one side clockwise or counterclockwise , it seems in a point the gears are kind of stuck and it is really hard to continue rotating. I disassambled and found out that the bigger gear inside the diff makes the issue in some point.. do you guys think this is an issue or after breaking in the diff with usage this will disappear? many thanks.

Hi guys, what way up should the conical (8hole) pistons be installed and what's the difference? Also, what shock oil weight and rebound is generally run.

They are usually run with the small end of the hole facing up so that you gain rebound speed without sacrificing compression damping. I ran 30wt front and 27.5wt rear oil with the stock pistons. With the tapered 8 hole M2C pistons I am at 35wt front and 30wt rear, set up with zero rebound.

I have built many many serpent 811 vehicles and have not had an issue with the sun or spider gears. I would build it and run it. I'm sure it will settle in.


Depends on what you want to gain. When I ran the 8 hole I ran the conical up in the front and down in the back. The oil all depends on what hole you drill in the pistons. They come drilled 1.1. I would drill them to 1.3 and run 45f/35r for oil.

Thanks for that.......so running with the conical faced down aids rebound and faced up aids compression, but what characteristic does each give in the shock action - just so i can decide on what way to install them.
I run Losi oils what make are your recommended weights based on?

Thanks

I run the 8-hole conical pistons with the flat side on top front & rear. Setup:

Front Rear
Piston: 1.2 1.1
Losi Oil: 37.5 25
Springs: Purple Yellow

I have liked it so far. I also run the same setup on my Serpent Nitro buggy. But, I also am running on a smooth, tight, indoor track with good traction so that effects things as well.

Ok can I get some set up tips for huge outdoor blown out 1:8 track. Similar dirt to the Farm (2008 worlds track). Looking for camber link possitions, shock springs, oils, pistons, diffs, etc. Good setup sheet for outdoor wouldn't make me cry either! LOL

BTW I had to post somthing...I don't like for this thread to be on page 2.

[QUOTE=Frank L;10650452]I have built many many serpent 811 vehicles and have not had an issue with the sun or spider gears. I would build it and run it. I'm sure it will settle in.



Thank you so much for your kind reply. I have figured out a foreign material inside the diff fluid that was causing the issue , I fixed now and it is okay..

I have finished building the rear end totally, the diff gear and the pinion was working fine until I mount the rear end on the main chassis with 4 screws. after that the diff box was more tight and when I rotate the main rear shaft , at some point the diff gear and pinion make rattling sound and harder to rotate. after that point it is smooth.. do you think this is normal until break in? I used the shimming exactly mentioned in the extra sheet of serpent. many thanks.

Anyone know if there is a blank editable setup sheet that I can plug my setup into and print for this bad arse snake???

Does anyone have troubles with suspension binding? When i push down on the back of the buggy it really doesn't spring back well. Seems like the arms are pretty tight on the pins, etc. Was thinking I may need to ream out everything.

Do you have the sway bar connected? It could be that the sway bar ball joints in the wishbones are too tight.

I loosened them up and it still does it. I also tried it without them, the arms itself with the sway bars disconnected seem hard to move.