5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
03-24-2012 | 09:31 AM
Good to hear you like the truck again Coyote. You didn't mention if you were running front springs on the rear though.
@Cameron Kellogg
Any feedback on those hot racing rear uprights yet? I'm doing a total rebuild of my truck and wondering if they make much difference.
@Cameron Kellogg
Any feedback on those hot racing rear uprights yet? I'm doing a total rebuild of my truck and wondering if they make much difference.
03-24-2012 | 09:33 AM
Airtronics 94360Z - ERG-VRX High Speed Alum. Heatsink Servo
Modulation: Analog
Torque: 4.8V: 100.0 oz-in (7.20 kg-cm)
6.0V: 125.0 oz-in (9.00 kg-cm)
Speed: 4.8V: 0.09 sec/60°
6.0V: 0.07 sec/60°
Weight: 2.18 oz (61.8 g)
Dimensions: Length:1.54 in (39.1 mm)
Width:0.79 in (20.1 mm)
Height:1.47 in (37.3 mm)
Motor Type: Coreless
Gear Type: Metal
Rotation/Support: Dual Bearings
Modulation: Analog
Torque: 4.8V: 100.0 oz-in (7.20 kg-cm)
6.0V: 125.0 oz-in (9.00 kg-cm)
Speed: 4.8V: 0.09 sec/60°
6.0V: 0.07 sec/60°
Weight: 2.18 oz (61.8 g)
Dimensions: Length:1.54 in (39.1 mm)
Width:0.79 in (20.1 mm)
Height:1.47 in (37.3 mm)
Motor Type: Coreless
Gear Type: Metal
Rotation/Support: Dual Bearings
03-24-2012 | 09:35 AM
Tech Elite
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,936
From: roseburg or
Airtronics 94360Z - ERG-VRX High Speed Alum. Heatsink Servo
Modulation: Analog
Torque: 4.8V: 100.0 oz-in (7.20 kg-cm)
6.0V: 125.0 oz-in (9.00 kg-cm)
Speed: 4.8V: 0.09 sec/60°
6.0V: 0.07 sec/60°
Weight: 2.18 oz (61.8 g)
Dimensions: Length:1.54 in (39.1 mm)
Width:0.79 in (20.1 mm)
Height:1.47 in (37.3 mm)
Motor Type: Coreless
Gear Type: Metal
Rotation/Support: Dual Bearings
Modulation: Analog
Torque: 4.8V: 100.0 oz-in (7.20 kg-cm)
6.0V: 125.0 oz-in (9.00 kg-cm)
Speed: 4.8V: 0.09 sec/60°
6.0V: 0.07 sec/60°
Weight: 2.18 oz (61.8 g)
Dimensions: Length:1.54 in (39.1 mm)
Width:0.79 in (20.1 mm)
Height:1.47 in (37.3 mm)
Motor Type: Coreless
Gear Type: Metal
Rotation/Support: Dual Bearings
03-24-2012 | 09:48 AM
Tried the 7k/5k on Thursday finally. Still seems to have an on power push, but it helped a little. I'm filling them with 5/3 now. Hopefully it gets me where I need to be. A couple of guys I race with drove my truck yesterday and they also noticed the push. Sucks cause other than that it is perfect.
03-24-2012 | 09:58 AM
It's a weight transfer issue. Solve it through spring, oil and/or droop settings. If I remember correctly (without pulling out the wonderful Xray tuning guide), a tad less droop in the front should limit weight transfer to the rear wheels, giving you more front bite (and if I'm correct help keep your wheels planted). If it's the other way around...well, I'm human and don't work in a hobby shop...
Once you pull the front wheels off the ground, there is no weight left to transfer. Fully 100% of the weight is on the tires that aren't off the ground. If you take video it and slow it way down, you can see once the truck starts to pull the wheels up, it gets worse, which IMO means it's a torque biasing problem from the slipper.
Pinning (re-coupling) fixes it (no bias), Mantisworks ball diff fixes it (bias toward the front in the V1 setup, no bias under power with the V2 setup that locks up when you gas it).
03-24-2012 | 10:12 AM
I bought some. They are nice.
I don't work in a hobby shop, but I disagree.
Once you pull the front wheels off the ground, there is no weight left to transfer. Fully 100% of the weight is on the tires that aren't off the ground. If you take video it and slow it way down, you can see once the truck starts to pull the wheels up, it gets worse, which IMO means it's a torque biasing problem from the slipper.
Pinning (re-coupling) fixes it (no bias), Mantisworks ball diff fixes it (bias toward the front in the V1 setup, no bias under power with the V2 setup that locks up when you gas it).
I don't work in a hobby shop, but I disagree.
Once you pull the front wheels off the ground, there is no weight left to transfer. Fully 100% of the weight is on the tires that aren't off the ground. If you take video it and slow it way down, you can see once the truck starts to pull the wheels up, it gets worse, which IMO means it's a torque biasing problem from the slipper.
Pinning (re-coupling) fixes it (no bias), Mantisworks ball diff fixes it (bias toward the front in the V1 setup, no bias under power with the V2 setup that locks up when you gas it).
03-24-2012 | 10:18 AM
Tech Legend
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 22,595
From: TRCR Modified Driver
Just a old guy that swears by the standard uncoupled slipper .
I do live at the track however .
So that makes me a expert...
Lock up the drive train and the truck pulls the ft end off the ground producing a bad on power push ...
Need the slipper to stop it or you just go slower
I do live at the track however .
So that makes me a expert...
Lock up the drive train and the truck pulls the ft end off the ground producing a bad on power push ...
Need the slipper to stop it or you just go slower
Last edited by Wild Cherry; 03-24-2012 at 10:28 AM.