5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
08-25-2013 | 11:48 PM
Tech Legend
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 22,595
From: TRCR Modified Driver
Slash
Check clicker , if loose will click on decelleration.
If you can hear the front diff skip ?
spider gears are worn & the shim's are bent & cone shape.
suggest replacing the spider gear's & shims
Check clicker , if loose will click on decelleration.
If you can hear the front diff skip ?
spider gears are worn & the shim's are bent & cone shape.
suggest replacing the spider gear's & shims
08-26-2013 | 01:38 AM
Boys, quick question. I just realised I forgot to put the o ring on the servo horn. Will this matter if its on or not? It doesn't look like it matters however I thought I would ask.
I really don't want to strip the front end again If I don't have too.
I really don't want to strip the front end again If I don't have too.
08-27-2013 | 12:39 PM
Tech Adept
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 236
My newly arrived second hand 4x4 is making a strange noise.
On deceleration, it has a descending whining noise as it comes to rest. Not so noticeable on acceleration, but it's there. No noticeable binding or clicking. Yet to look in the rear diff.
Any thoughts, I rebuilt the front diff. 7000wt oil in. Cleaned up and meshing at 90%, bit of skipping.... could that be issue? Haven't looked at the rear diff, seems very smooth on first impressions. Bit dusty in the drive belt section. Slipper pads have friction. Not too tight on the rearslipper. What should I be doing first before replacing gears and belts and bearings? Slipper too tight? I've got the front idler spring right in. Is that right? I'm new to AE 4x4's, but have worked on plenty of teansmissions on AE's and Traxxas Slash 4x4's.
On deceleration, it has a descending whining noise as it comes to rest. Not so noticeable on acceleration, but it's there. No noticeable binding or clicking. Yet to look in the rear diff.
Any thoughts, I rebuilt the front diff. 7000wt oil in. Cleaned up and meshing at 90%, bit of skipping.... could that be issue? Haven't looked at the rear diff, seems very smooth on first impressions. Bit dusty in the drive belt section. Slipper pads have friction. Not too tight on the rearslipper. What should I be doing first before replacing gears and belts and bearings? Slipper too tight? I've got the front idler spring right in. Is that right? I'm new to AE 4x4's, but have worked on plenty of teansmissions on AE's and Traxxas Slash 4x4's.
08-27-2013 | 01:18 PM
Quick question in reference to shocks. I have been tearing front shock bladders. Is there a standard amount of shock limiters (external) recommended? I run on a rough bumpy track and I know maximum shock travel would be best. I have the shock ends screwed on all the way, using RCShox two stage pistons, bleed screw removed. The bladders are tearing with three shock limiter clips. Taking away a lot of shock travel.
Also, the new "big bore" shocks for the sc10, are they better than these shocks?
Also, the new "big bore" shocks for the sc10, are they better than these shocks?
08-27-2013 | 02:27 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,595
From: Illinois
Quick question in reference to shocks. I have been tearing front shock bladders. Is there a standard amount of shock limiters (external) recommended? I run on a rough bumpy track and I know maximum shock travel would be best. I have the shock ends screwed on all the way, using RCShox two stage pistons, bleed screw removed. The bladders are tearing with three shock limiter clips. Taking away a lot of shock travel.
Also, the new "big bore" shocks for the sc10, are they better than these shocks?
Also, the new "big bore" shocks for the sc10, are they better than these shocks?
08-27-2013 | 04:39 PM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 808
From: In a VAN down by the RIVER
Quick question in reference to shocks. I have been tearing front shock bladders. Is there a standard amount of shock limiters (external) recommended? I run on a rough bumpy track and I know maximum shock travel would be best. I have the shock ends screwed on all the way, using RCShox two stage pistons, bleed screw removed. The bladders are tearing with three shock limiter clips. Taking away a lot of shock travel.
Also, the new "big bore" shocks for the sc10, are they better than these shocks?
Also, the new "big bore" shocks for the sc10, are they better than these shocks?
08-27-2013 | 06:07 PM
for really bumpy blown out tracks i do not use shock limiter at all. i wonder if you got you shock end on all the way might be worth a look. i run stock piston in mine and have no problem with the bladder but then again i have the bleeder screw in also. im not sure but that could be maybe a problem there did you ever try to put the bleeder screw back in
I just wanna know if there is a trick, maybe something I'm missing, something wrong etc, so I can remedy this issue.
Thanks
Maybe I should look into emulsion instead of bladder?
08-27-2013 | 06:30 PM
the bladder (if not ripped/holes) separates the oil from the top portion of the shock cap, where the hole for the bleed screw is. It is sealed in other words if your bladder's integrity is intact and it is installed correctly. I knew after a run my bladder was bad in one of my shocks when I saw oil squirting out when the shock compressed and the other three were not.
08-27-2013 | 06:30 PM
I do have the shockend screwed as far as it will go on. I did put the bleed screw back in. I'm really not sure why Marcus recommended it out.
I don't think it is wear. I think the piston is bottoming out (at the top of the stroke) on the shock bladder tearing it. Damaging the bladder.
I just wanna know if there is a trick, maybe something I'm missing, something wrong etc, so I can remedy this issue.
Thanks
Maybe I should look into emulsion instead of bladder?
I don't think it is wear. I think the piston is bottoming out (at the top of the stroke) on the shock bladder tearing it. Damaging the bladder.
I just wanna know if there is a trick, maybe something I'm missing, something wrong etc, so I can remedy this issue.
Thanks
Maybe I should look into emulsion instead of bladder?
Send Mantisworx a message about this issue you are seeing with the dual stages, he may have some advise on this situation. I still ran the external limiters I was using prior to the new diff shims which really limited uptravel.
08-27-2013 | 06:41 PM
When you assemble the shock prior to putting the cap on, do you see the bladder on compression getting "bumped"? If so, personally I run limiters on other vehicles to prevent this.
Send Mantisworx a message about this issue you are seeing with the dual stages, he may have some advise on this situation. I still ran the external limiters I was using prior to the new diff shims which really limited uptravel.
Send Mantisworx a message about this issue you are seeing with the dual stages, he may have some advise on this situation. I still ran the external limiters I was using prior to the new diff shims which really limited uptravel.
yeah, I have to run almost 3/2mm clips to prevent this. Are all the shock shafts the same length? Maybe I get the rear/front mixed up? I think they are all the same though?
I am gonna try emulsion after reading this: http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...er-shocks.html
and
Saxton is gonna teach me:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-qlH-agAHE
08-27-2013 | 07:27 PM
that doesnt really make sense
the bladder seperates the oil from the outside exactly what is going to wear? You could pour sand on top of the bladder and it would make no difference to anything under the bladder.the AE bladders get hard really fast, i typically replace them once a month not because of breakage but when they get hard you no longer have baldder style shocks and they end up more like emulsion because they do not move.