RC10B4.1 FT/WC

the max you should be running is three try that[/QUOTE]This goes for everyone. If your car is just not right and you can't seem to get it there, you need to tear it down and rebuild it and look for any parts that are overly worn or broken. After you have replaced them, rebuild the car with one of these two setups, and nothing else. There simply is no reason to stray far from these unless you race on the most extreme conditions (and if that's the case, the car probably will never feel right).
If your car has the std chassis, put on Ryan Maifeild's 2011 Reedy Race setup. Follow every part. Don' skip or deviate from it. It can be found here:http://teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_a...Reedy_Race.pdf
If your car has the +8mm chassis, put on Ryan Cavaleri's Finnland setup. Again.... do it exactly, don't fudge it. It can be found here:
http://teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_a...eri_Worlds.pdf (you can run AE Browns for fronts since the KY springs are hard to find...and those were Std KY springs not BB).
Ok so after your car is back to "normal", make your tweaks and setup changes, one at a time, and note what it does. You shouldn't vary too far from the original though. They are well thought out and have been tested thoroughly.
Not trying to preach, but when I see guys asking if they are running too many limiters and they are hitting 5, that makes me just feel like someones running their fingernails down a chalk board.
So that is my "reality check" for you guys
. I know I always end up greatful after someone gives me mine
[/QUOTE]When I first got my car I used a cavalieri setup, didnt care for it. I originated with the Paul Wynn setup, and the car worked awesome at my track, as layouts have changed I have made changes. 5 limiters in the front shock is what the Paul Wynn setup called for. The car handles pretty good, I just wanted to pick up a tad bit more exit steering
IMO... there arent any other ways to do it properly. lol Some people add oil to the cap, but that usually wastes fluid and makes a mess. The end result is the same.
It never hurts to ask how someone bleeds their shocks. If youre building your shocks this way... then youre issue is likely elsewhere.
You said you were bouncing around in that post... are you tail tapping through the rough stuff? Maybe you can alter your gearing to move the motor closer to the trans IF that is a problem...
It never hurts to ask how someone bleeds their shocks. If youre building your shocks this way... then youre issue is likely elsewhere.
You said you were bouncing around in that post... are you tail tapping through the rough stuff? Maybe you can alter your gearing to move the motor closer to the trans IF that is a problem...
When I first got my car I used a cavalieri setup, didnt care for it. I originated with the Paul Wynn setup, and the car worked awesome at my track, as layouts have changed I have made changes. 5 limiters in the front shock is what the Paul Wynn setup called for. The car handles pretty good, I just wanted to pick up a tad bit more exit steering
Maybe you should try less limiters, and try moving the rear upper shock position out a hole, but go down a rate on the spring (so if you were running green go to black... only as an example). See if that gives you a little more on power steering... and helps solve the rough stuff issue in one shot.
What inserts are you running in your tires?
Tech Addict
iTrader: (25)
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 602
From: USA
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
http://www.bumpsandjumpsrc.com/
I use the Plano 737-001 Tackle box. I like the drawer features for many of my items and because i ue a variety of cars, i keep the essentials in the box and i have individual cases with separate parts for my cars.

It came with this 3504-00-

Its the perfect size for my shock fluids diff oils etc. All my "liquids" go in this box and best of all, it sits upright in my tool box. No Mess!
MOmo

It came with this 3504-00-

Its the perfect size for my shock fluids diff oils etc. All my "liquids" go in this box and best of all, it sits upright in my tool box. No Mess!
MOmo
Is there any good that can come of moving the position of the turnbuckles (not the very front ones - sorry, don't know the correct name - the toe links??) near the front of the car to the back hole on the steering rack? I'm using the FT trailing axles - I read elsewhere that the back position is typically used for inline axles.
Seems like moving the ball cups to the rear position on the steering rack would shorten the angle of the.. damn i don't know. That's where this noob hits the wall. Right now both front turnbuckles (on one side) are parallel from the top view. Moving this cup to the back spot will make those imaginary lines converge.
Follow-up - What will adding spacers to either position on the steering rack do? Seems like this would lower the roll center, if I've absorbed anything through this bog of Guinness.
fredswain, where are you when I need you??
Seems like moving the ball cups to the rear position on the steering rack would shorten the angle of the.. damn i don't know. That's where this noob hits the wall. Right now both front turnbuckles (on one side) are parallel from the top view. Moving this cup to the back spot will make those imaginary lines converge.
Follow-up - What will adding spacers to either position on the steering rack do? Seems like this would lower the roll center, if I've absorbed anything through this bog of Guinness.
fredswain, where are you when I need you??
Is there any good that can come of moving the position of the turnbuckles (not the very front ones - sorry, don't know the correct name - the toe links??) near the front of the car to the back hole on the steering rack? I'm using the FT trailing axles - I read elsewhere that the back position is typically used for inline axles.
Seems like moving the ball cups to the rear position on the steering rack would shorten the angle of the.. damn i don't know. That's where this noob hits the wall. Right now both front turnbuckles (on one side) are parallel from the top view. Moving this cup to the back spot will make those imaginary lines converge.
Follow-up - What will adding spacers to either position on the steering rack do? Seems like this would lower the roll center, if I've absorbed anything through this bog of Guinness.
fredswain, where are you when I need you??
Seems like moving the ball cups to the rear position on the steering rack would shorten the angle of the.. damn i don't know. That's where this noob hits the wall. Right now both front turnbuckles (on one side) are parallel from the top view. Moving this cup to the back spot will make those imaginary lines converge.
Follow-up - What will adding spacers to either position on the steering rack do? Seems like this would lower the roll center, if I've absorbed anything through this bog of Guinness.
fredswain, where are you when I need you??

Adding any washers to the steering system won't change the roll center. Altering those positions changes bump steer (sip more Guinness at this point...). Roll center is going to be changed by either adding or removing washers from under the inner camber link ball stud or shortening/lengthening the camber link itself. At this point, switch to a hoppy ale and you will be blown away by the hop flavor. Does this help?
It's been a long time sine I owned a buggy (since the BK2), so far it's a blast to drive, only thing is that I do have a slight off power push, moved the battery forward, helped but not there yet. I have noticed if I tap the break going into a turn the rear end will slide, it that how I get it to make sharp turns? Running long camber link front, will running a short one help with the off power steering ?
Tnx...
Tnx...




