RC10B4.1 FT/WC
03-02-2012 | 10:52 PM
Tech Master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,088
Thanks for the reply
03-02-2012 | 11:37 PM
I have an original B4 'U' brace on my car... and know for a fact that the link mounts arent flush. Its close... but not flush. Ill add a pic tomorrow.
I opted to do this instead of two screws. I still like the body clips...
I opted to do this instead of two screws. I still like the body clips...
03-03-2012 | 03:02 AM
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 48
Wow dude your totally right. I built the diff up and put it in my B4.1 and now the dogbones are too short. If I get the FT CVD will it work or did I just waste 40 bucks. Thanks for the help, I wish they wouldn't put b4.1 in the description if it doesn't even fn fit, ridiculous. Thanks for the help Matt.
03-03-2012 | 04:57 AM
Wow dude your totally right. I built the diff up and put it in my B4.1 and now the dogbones are too short. If I get the FT CVD will it work or did I just waste 40 bucks. Thanks for the help, I wish they wouldn't put b4.1 in the description if it doesn't even fn fit, ridiculous. Thanks for the help Matt.
03-03-2012 | 07:30 AM
steer crank
stock steer crank. second 1 broke in 2 weeks....seems like brittle.
is this safe to use with this servo model? Savox SC1257tg
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ank-Set-Silver
I have heard some rip apart servos depending up the servo.
thx!
is this safe to use with this servo model? Savox SC1257tg
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ank-Set-Silver
I have heard some rip apart servos depending up the servo.
thx!
Last edited by derekbsmith; 03-03-2012 at 07:46 AM.
03-03-2012 | 07:47 AM
stock steer crank. second 1 broke in 2 weeks....seems like brittle.
is this safe to use with this servo model? Savox SC1257tg
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ank-Set-Silver
I have heard some rip apart servos.
thx!
is this safe to use with this servo model? Savox SC1257tg
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ank-Set-Silver
I have heard some rip apart servos.
thx!
03-03-2012 | 08:14 AM
ok thx! The part that always breaks is the upper saver part 9659. what is the fix then?
03-03-2012 | 08:19 AM
I liked the Avid bellcranks too.. but make sure you have a very strong servo. I thought mine was strong enough, I put the bellcrank on and went out and not even three minutes into the pack, I destroyed the servo.
03-03-2012 | 08:22 AM
03-03-2012 | 09:33 AM
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 48
Matt can you confirm that this is the diff I need :
http://www.toadzrc.com/associated-98...-diff-sc10.htm
Much thanks my man.
http://www.toadzrc.com/associated-98...-diff-sc10.htm
Much thanks my man.
03-03-2012 | 09:52 AM
Matt can you confirm that this is the diff I need :
http://www.toadzrc.com/associated-98...-diff-sc10.htm
Much thanks my man.
http://www.toadzrc.com/associated-98...-diff-sc10.htm
Much thanks my man.
03-03-2012 | 10:37 AM
Tech Regular
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 356
From: NJ
Good info bob...
as with the chub.. its a different feel most seem to like it more on a polished indoor tracks..
As for the tapping and set screw in the hubs.. it good idea just be careful u get the striaght.. if not ot will bind..
Alum front bulkhead again some like some dont like bob said cuts down on wear but also has a different feel.. its up to u... Thats why it seems the b4.1 works for anyone.. just put really the standard setup and work off of that for personal needs and feel...
as with the chub.. its a different feel most seem to like it more on a polished indoor tracks..
As for the tapping and set screw in the hubs.. it good idea just be careful u get the striaght.. if not ot will bind..
Alum front bulkhead again some like some dont like bob said cuts down on wear but also has a different feel.. its up to u... Thats why it seems the b4.1 works for anyone.. just put really the standard setup and work off of that for personal needs and feel...
Get an extra set of front bearings so you can make up a set of std front axles and keep in your box.
Get another U brace and leave it std. Shave the other one down. This way when you go from C hub Tower to A hub Tower, you can just switch U Braces and not have to worry about adding washes and then breaking a ball stud.
Some guys are cutting the wing mount nipples off and then tapping them so you can screw the wing onto the wing mount. I like this myself but haven't done it yet.
drill and tap the rear alum hubs and then put a grub screw against the hinge pin.
I also got the alum bulkhead just because I was tired of the plastic ones wearing out in 1 run. Yes I know the arm will slop out, but at least now it's only the arm and not the arm and the bulkhead LOL.
I also glued my servo saver. Just a drop and let it dry. That way in case of a big hit, the glue will break (hopefully LOL).
Other than that, I think you nailed all the stuff you wanna get.
Get another U brace and leave it std. Shave the other one down. This way when you go from C hub Tower to A hub Tower, you can just switch U Braces and not have to worry about adding washes and then breaking a ball stud.
Some guys are cutting the wing mount nipples off and then tapping them so you can screw the wing onto the wing mount. I like this myself but haven't done it yet.
drill and tap the rear alum hubs and then put a grub screw against the hinge pin.
I also got the alum bulkhead just because I was tired of the plastic ones wearing out in 1 run. Yes I know the arm will slop out, but at least now it's only the arm and not the arm and the bulkhead LOL.
I also glued my servo saver. Just a drop and let it dry. That way in case of a big hit, the glue will break (hopefully LOL).
Other than that, I think you nailed all the stuff you wanna get.
03-03-2012 | 11:36 AM
Tech Addict
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 550
From: Tacoma, wa
behind the onboard toe and infront of the tranny case with the dot either facing the fromt or rear of the car