i run 15/60 with the 4600

is it just me, or does the truck seem more reactive in the air (side to side) with stick packs

not sure why it would, but mine does

With a tapered hole, turbulence is introduced later (at higher shaft speeds) and to a lesser degree when the oil is flowing into the conical side as opposed to the other way around. It all works fine and dandy, but good luck modifying it with any consistency. This is where the dual stage pistons shine. They produce the same result, but anyone can modify them with a simple drill bit for testing purposes and personal taste.

Check the entire driveline all spins freely. Disconnect the motor from the gears and check.
Also check the belt is installed correctly on an ALL the pulleys. It can twist over on one end and cause drag.

I am going thru it right now, The slipper pads were glazed and I sanded them down and locked down the slipper. I'll pull the motor and check the belt. If it all checks out I may get a 16 pinion and run it tom to see if I was undergeared like mantis said. I'll check motor, esc, and slipper temps and see where we are.
Thanks

Finally got to run my truck today. Unfortunately track was over watered. Started to dry up about the time I was leaving. When it started go dry out truck was pretty hooked up. Running with the exotek chassis. Definitely a difference compared to my last truck. Running the MTK clutch basket with a tekin pro4 4000 motor. Think I need the dual rate shock pistons to settle the rear end down.

Spent about 6 hours today just driving and getting a feel for a few mods. Big thanks to Craig for the Spring advice. I also decided to run with the long wheelbase and it feels like a million bucks! I had one super fast lap the whole day since I was concentrating on the "feel" of the truck. That being said I was more consistant im my lap times overall. So, Yellow Fronts on the Front and Blue Fronts on the Rear seem to be it for me at the moment. Need to buy the Front Spring Kit and go from there.

Sal

Craig...thanks again!

What's the deal with running front springs on the rear?

Check the last few pages

Dan, I still havent had the courage to do the center stick conversion...but that may be coming soon. I actually have a new center and rear section to sacrifice for this.

Sal

Thanks

I canceled my order for the Saddles and Exotek.
I'm going to do a Center Stick pack and lay some weights along the edge of the packs for as low as I can get without the Chassis weight and bag it. I'm tired of spending money on 'this' rig. Spring is coming and the 1/8 are opening around here. I have an RC8 to tune. It will remain my indoor Truck until I figure it out.

I'm going to try the Spring deal tonight and race tomorrow probably. I don't think there's anymore input needed, but I'll voice my opinion about it. (hoping to drive tomorrow is more like it)


On that note, Does anyone have the page number any of the Center Mounted Setup Pics are on? I just want to ballpark idea my own Modification. Thread search failed me this time.

I do have the blues handy, definitely could try them!

Thanks Cameron, looking forward to the report!

Can someone explain to me why the Rear Reds aren't in any conversation about this spring issue?

They're 3.4, and some of you are putting 3.5 greens on like it's an improvement?

I can see the whites, and definitely the blues. But Why aren't we using the reds and skipping to throwing fronts on the rears? Is there something about the length and the wider range of compression compared to the stubbier springs (front?)

I've read every post. Don't re-explain, just clarify a tad for me?

Post 7854

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ml#post9711364

Thats just the first one...I think he did a revised version too.

Sal